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1. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.
2. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw - and don't lose it!
3. Place the box-end wrench (perfect fit) over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best - since it allows the most room for movement. Do not use an open end wrench.
4. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.
5. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.
6. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.
7. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.
8. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)
9. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do.
10. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!
11. The assistant should respond with "released."
12. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.
13. Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a 'standard' bleed.)
14. Move systematically toward the driver - right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservoir! Keep it full!
15. When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.
16. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal - since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)
17. Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.
18. Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir!
Vehicle Wrap-Up and Road Test 1. Re-install all four road wheels.
2. Raise the entire vehicle and remove jack stands. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's recommended limit. Re-install any hubcaps or wheel covers.
3. With the vehicle on level ground and with the car NOT running, apply and release the brake pedal several times until all clearances are taken up in the system. During this time, the brake pedal feel may improve slightly, but the brake pedal should be at least as firm as it was prior to the bleeding process.
4. Road test the vehicle to confirm proper function of the brakes.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that you should place one lug nut (reversed) on each caliber to prevent the caliber from deflecting during bleeding.
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Why wont the Brakes bleed 1993 Mercury Sable?
did you replace the master cylinder if so it has to be bleed frist
How do you add brake fluid to the slave cylinder in a 1993 Escort?
You don't. You add it to the master cylinder and bleed the brakes.
Will 1993 wheels that came off of a Chevy truck with drum rear brakes fit on a 2000 Chevy Tahoe with disk brakes on the back?
If there a 16in wheel or bigger yes
How do you change brake hose in a 1993 Chevy c1500 truck?
If it is a hose, that runs from a hardline to a caliper or from a hard line to the hardline located on the axle, then you simply remove the old one, using a line wrench, install the new one, and bleed the brakes. To bleed the brakes, you start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, but if you only replaced one hose, then only bleed that one. If you must replace a line, then remove that line, either have someone or make up a new line yourself, install the new line, and bleed the brakes. If it is a hose, that runs from a hardline to a caliper or from a hard line to the hardline located on the axle, then you simply remove the old one, using a line wrench, install the new one, and bleed the brakes. To bleed the brakes, you start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, but if you only replaced one hose, then only bleed that one. If you must replace a line, then remove that line, either have someone or make up a new line yourself, install the new line, and bleed the brakes.
How do you drain the master cylinder on a 1993 Honda Accord?
just bleed your brakes through each wheel cylinder until the fluid runs clean
Your 1993 mark vIII brakes suck you have replaced the pads and the lines are good is it the master cylinder or a vacuum leak?
Sounds like you got air in the lines so you would have to bleed the brakes. Just saying that they suck doesn't explain much so I went for the bleed the brakes but if it was explained just what is going on with them maybe then it could be pin pointed.
How do you change the brakes and rotors on a 1993 Chevy Lumina?
Remove the tire and wheel from your 1993 Chevy Lumina. Remove the brake assembly spring and the brake caliper. The brake assembly will come off. Tap on the rotor with a hammer or mallet. The rotor will slide off. Reverse the process to change the new rotor and brakes.
How do you bleed the brakes in a 1993 Toyota Camry?
To bleed the brakes in a 1993 Toyota Camry, open the bleeder screw on the rear passenger side wheel. Have another person pump the brakes 3 times and then hold the pedal to the floor. Tighten the bleeder screw. Continue with each wheel until only brake fluid comes out and not air when the brake is pumped. The next wheel should be the driver's side rear and then the passenger side front, then driver's side front.
What kind of rear brakes does a 1993 Ford Aerostar have?
You have drum brakes on the rear.
Why does the power steering and brakes go at the same time on a 1993 Chevy astro van?
Because it has a hydraulic booster that supplies both systems and something is wrong with it.
93 Pontiac drum brakes?
What about 1993 Pontiac drum brakes, please be specific.
What carburetor does a 1993 Chevy Cheyenne 1500 have?
A 1993 Chevy does not have a carburetor, it is fuel injected.
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