Before bleeding the master cylinder, you must first intall all parts so that you can hook up the master cylinder as soon as it has been bled. The best thing to do is get a manual for your vehicle that explains the do-it-yourself techniques because it will have pictures to go along with the directions.
The clutch bleeding is similar to bleeding brakes. Although you must be sure the clutch cylinder is higher that the bleed fittings and if you can't get it to bleed you may have to purchase a tool at you local parts store that will force bleed the system. This will pull the air out of the system and pull the fluid in. Always be sure to keep the master clutch reservoir full at all times.
this is a 2 man job period, top up the master cylinder and pump your petal as you would doing a brake bleed job, there will be a master slave cylinder on the transmission with a nipple on it (I don't know the actual size but I believe its 5/16" or so) it will look and feel like a grease nipple, just crack that open and shut it when the petal hits the floor, repeat as nesscary, don't forget to keep toping the clutch master cylinder The slave clyinder on my 1991 F 150 does not have a bleeder nipple !
REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONBe careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surfaces of the vehicle, as it will damage the paint.Unfasten the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder.Disconnect the hydraulic fluid pressure differential switch wiring. On models with fluid level sensors, also disconnect the fluid level sensor wiring.Loosen the master cylinder reservoir mounting bolts.On models with manual brakes, unfasten the master cylinder securing bolts and the clevis pin from the brake pedal, then remove the master cylinder. On models with power brakes, unfasten the nuts and remove the master cylinder assembly from the power brake unit. To install:Install the master cylinder in reverse order of removal and note the following: Many models have an UP mark on the cylinder boot; make sure it is in the correct position.Before tightening the master cylinder mounting nuts or bolts, screw the hydraulic lines into the cylinder body a few turns.After installation is completed, bleed the master cylinder and the brake system.Check and adjust the brake pedal as necessary.When replacing the the master cylinder, it is best to BENCH BLEED the master cylinder before installing it to the vehicle. Mount the master cylinder into a soft-jawed vise or suitable equivalent, so as not to damage the cylinder. Fill the cylinder to the correct level with new DOT 3 type brake fluid. Block off all the outer brake line holes but one, then position a long wooden dowel in the bore to actuate the brake master cylinder. Pump the brake master cylinder 3 or 4 times (push in and out with the dowel) until brake fluid is released and no air is in the brake fluid. Repeat this procedure until all brake fluid is released from every hole and no air is expelled.
It is not too difficult. a lot easier than the clutch master cylinder; it is located on the lower front driver side of the engine; it is fed by the clutch master cylinder which is fed by the brake master cylinder; follow the lines and you will see it. You will need a flare nut wrench to disconnect the line. Then it simply unbolts fom the engine. Replace with new part, reconnect line, and bleed the air out. There is a bleeder fitting on the slave cylinder. Make sure to get all the air out of the line to prevent a weak pedal that could cause difficulty in shifting gears.
First, make sure the master cylinder is filled with brake fluid. If it is low, there may be a leak somewhere in the brake lines or a brake cylinder. If the master cylinder is bad, you can normally pump the brakes up, but the pedal will slowly sink to the floor again. The master cylinder needs to be replaced or repaired.
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