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Manual Master/Clutch Bleed ProcessHello I went through this process many times. I have a 1993 Chevy Cavalier and I replaced the clutch - which was a pain! After that process I determined: 1)There Master and Slave Cylinder configuration for the clutch. 2) Any air in this configuration had to be eliminated. The Master Cylinder is located by the firewall on the drivers side of the car and the Slave Cylinder is located right on the clutch itself. There two bolts that hold the Master Cylinder need to be loosened to the point where it can almost be removed.

IMPORTANT - you need to keep the Slave Cylinder well below the Master Cylinder to complete this process.

Now here's the process: 1) Remove the Slave Cylinder completely from the clutch housing (It's self contained and - hopefully - won't leak air into the system) 2) Now open the Master Cylinder and check the fluid level and during the ENTIRE PROCESS - ensure the fluid level does not sink down to the point where air can get into the system. So you might want to over fill the reservoir some. 3) There should be a rod which should be hard to push but It should compress with some/alot of effort and you might have to do this process multiple times. 4) Now keeping the Slave Cylinder well below the Master Cylinder compress the rod - slowly - into the Slave Cylinder looking for air bubbles in the Master Cylinder Reservoir.

NOTE - Now hopefully you understand the object is to remove all the air from the Master / Slave Configuration.

5) Once you are sure there is no air in the system make sure the Master Cylinder Fluid Level is correct and place the rubber piece into the Master Cylinder and screw the Master Cylinder on tight. Then re-tighten the Master Cylinder to the firewall.

6) Then re-attach and tighten the Slave Cylinder to the Clutch Assembly and re-assemble the remainder on the car you had to remove to accomplish this task.

IMPORTANT - Make sure the Transmission Fluid level is correct.

7) Start the car and press the clutch to the floor and hold 12 seconds or more then release the pressure on the clutch (this allows hydraulic pressure to build up).

NOTE - I had to preform this process three time before all the air was removed from the Master / Slave Clutch Clyinder Configuration.

GOOD LUCK :-)

-Dave

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OK YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THERE IS NO LEAK,IF NONE YOU WILL HAVE A PERFECT CLUTCH YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TWO PUMPS OR CYLINDERS ARE VIRGINS AND NEVER BEAT THEM UP WITH THE FEET,IF ITS ALL INSTALLED AND NO LEAK FIND A WAY TO DISENGAGE SLAVE CYLINDER FROM THE FORK ROMOVE BOLTS BUT NOT THE FLUID PIPE ,OK AFTER DISENGAGE LOSSEN THE BLEEDING PUT SOME FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR THEN BUY YOU A CRAFTSMAN BRAKE BLEEDER OR MYTYVAC HANDPUMP THEN START BLEEDING IT FROM THE TOP NOT BOTTOM,BOTTOM YOU LOOSE ALITTLE POWER,MAKE SURE VACUUM BLEED IT UNTIL THE VACUUM PUMP RESERVOIR IS IS FULL IN LIQUID BY BLEEDING,THATS IT THEN CHECK IT UNTIL THERE IS NO MORE BUBBLES,THE REASON YOU WILL FILL UP THE RESERVOIR OF THE VACUUM PUMP SO THAT YOU ARE VERY SURE ALL FLUID IS WASH OUT AND VERY NEW FLUID IN THE SYSTEM,MAKE SURE YOU GET IT RIGHT ONCE BECAUSE IF YOU BLEED IT AND BLEED IT THERE WILL BE NO WAY YOU GET THIS THING NICE I THINK WHAT I MEAN BY THAT IS YOU DONT WANT TO BURN THE SLAVE PUMP AS MUCH IF YOU CAN PREVENT ITAFTER THAT ITS SHOULD BE AN OK CLUTCH, I

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โˆ™ 2015-07-14 14:59:37
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Q: How do you bleed the hydraulic clutch on a 1993 Cavalier?
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