There should be a bleeder located on/near the slave. Fill the master with brake fluid which is what the hydraulic clutch uses. Raise vehicle place on stands. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal and after 4 pumps, hold to floor. At this time you loosen the bleeder screw to release air/fluid mix. Tighen screw and now the assistant can pump up system again and repeat the procedure 4-5 times; that should do it. Always keep the fluid in master full as it will go down fast. Good luck.
From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure: (1) Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. (2) Raise vehicle on hoist. (3) Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system. (4) Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten (10) times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system. (5) Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 19 N·m (168 in. lbs.). (6) Lower vehicle. (7) Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 - Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
We'll assume your talking about the clutch. First, make sure the bleeder screw on the slave cyl. will break loose...gently! Break it off and your doomed !, Put a small container under the area to capture any fluid that comes out. Take the bleeder screw all the way out and clean it with a pin and some sort of solvent so that it allows proper fluid flow. (Make sure the clutch resorvoir is FULL of proper dot 3 fluid (Non-Synthetic) before taking the bleeder out...if the resorvoir goes dry before you put the screw back in, you may have to take the entire slave cyl. off and then bench bleed the unit and start over...you don't want this) Now, after bleeder screw is clean, put it back in, tighten, Have another person pump up the clutch pedal a few times and then hold down the pedal without letting up ...after he/she has pumped it up and held the pedal to the floor...you can now loosen the screw until (attach a clear plastic hose on the end of the bleeder screw and put the other end of the hose into a jar to capture fluid if you're on the neat side or enjoy tasting dot 3 fluid) fluid starts to flow out of the bleeder...the pedal should slowly depress (Make sure the other person does not take any pressure off the pedal even in the slightest bit until you yell at him/her to do so) After the fluid slows down a bit, retighten the screw. Repeat this procedure about 5 times in sucession. MAKE SURE THE FLUID RESORVOIR DOES NOT GO DRY DURING THE ENTIRE PROCEDURE) when all is said and done. recheck fluid resorvior and top off as needed. Test drive and ensure proper operation of the clutch.
hydraulic clutch does not have adjustment. replace the clutch it has a slave cylinder underneath and what you do is pump up the clutch and then hold it and have somone turn the line going itno th slave cylinder until you have clear fluid that is not how you bleed a clutch to the jeep owner, if you know how to bleed brakes on a vehicle, then you know how to bleed the clutch on a vehicle both done the same way.now if no parts of the clutch, such as master or slave cylander have been touched or let run out of fluid, there is still no need to bleed as that will not be the problem you might look at the linkage on the slave cylander. sometimes there is nylon bushing on the cylander rod that wears out. replace this bushing which is easy to do and your clutch will be good again.
The slave cylinder is not on the firewall, it is at the transmission. The master cylinder is on the firewall.
Most likely the clutch master cylinder and/or slave cylinder has went out. It's a good rule of thumb to replace both at the same time to save frustration later on. A hydraulic clutch system works on the same principle as your brake system. Its very important that after replacing the slave and master cylinder that you properly bleed all air from the hydraulic lines to ensure proper clutch pressure.
There is a smaller master cylinder next to the brake master cylinder. The clutch uses brake fluid also. If you mean where does it go if it is low, the slave cylinder on the transmission is probably leaking.
If it does this in all gears, I bet your clutch is shot. Other things that could cause problems are the Clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder.
The clutch can't be adjusted. It is an hydraulic clutch. The clutch pedal sends pressure from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the clutch. IF you are having trouble with it the thing to do is bleed the air out at the slave cylinder. Have an assistant pump the clutch and hold it to the floor. Then open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder to let the air out of the system. On the final bleed hold the clutch to the floor and close the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. The clutch master cylinder operates of the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure you keep this full of brake fluid as you bleed the clutch.
How do you replace a slave cylinder on a 1995 dodge neon clutch
On the clutch slave cylinder
Sure, but you also need to get the air out of the lines and the master cylinder. Put the slave on, then bleed the clutch keeping a supply of brake fluid in the reservoir.
There are two normal causes. The clutch is worn out or there is a leak in the hydraulic clutch slave or master cylinder. To check the clutch, press the clutch slave cylinder down. If the clutch slave cylinder bellows compresses down to the slave cylinder, the clutch is worn out. Check the clutch master cylinder fluid level. if this is low, then the clutch cylinder need to be checked. To check for a hydraulic leak in the clutch slave cylinder, remove the cylinder's bellows and check for any fluid. If fluid is present, rebuild or replace the cylinder and bleed the system. To check the clutch master cylinder, check the back the of clutch master cylinder for leaks. If fluid is present, replace or rebuild clutch master cylinder and bleed the system. In my experience, hydraulic leaks occur at the clutch slave cylinder.
Bleed the clutch line that runs from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder utilizing the bleed valve on the slave cylinder.
Right above the slave cylinder there is a bleeder screw. Just unsrew it and have someone hold in the clutch to start the bleed.
To bleed a clutch on a Nissan Stanza, you need to find the bleed-off valve, usually somewhere near the slave cylinder.
Whenever you are having a problem with the clutch disengaging the engine from the transmission it is advisable to bleed the clutch slave cylinder. If the clutch can't be operated by bleeding the slave cylinder then the clutch master cylinder is gone and should be replaced.
Remove slave and master cylinder from vehicle. Have someone stand on ladder holding master cylinder. Have someone work slave cylinder back and forth to force air out of system.
first check your clutch slave cylinder for leaks, if its leaking ,replace and bleed system,if its not leaking,bleed system ,dont forget to bleed clutch damperand if its still not right, then replace clutch master cylinder.
You bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder located near the transmission close to the radiator up front.