on the transmission on the drivers side u will see a little bleeder screw sticcking out. You just have someone pump the cluitch about 20 times and open the bleeder till fluid comes out and close it. and just keep repeating till it feels nice and hard and stays hard. do not get discouraged it will go from hard to soft for awhile but then it will finally stay hard and work like a beaut. it will take some time if you emptied the whole system.
Hi, The slave cylinder is on the side of the transmission. The hydraulic clutch system bleeder valve is on the slave cylinder. If you're bleeding the cluth, remember to have a jar and some clear plastic to bleed the system and never re-use the fluid you remove from the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder. Good luck and I hope it's a warm day for you. Please remember to use jack stands or heavy metal ramps. Steve H.
Bleeding the cylinder may solve your problem. You bleed the cylinder the same way you bleed brakes. Have someone push and hold the clutch pedal down. Open and close the bleeding petcock to let any air out. Person then lets clutch back up. Do this until all air is removed from system. Try first gear then. If still a problem, (I'm not sure here) is it possible to adjust your clutch by lengthening/shortining the clutch push rod in between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork? Try that if it adjusts. Most dont but I don't know of hand about yours.
It slides over the transmission shaft that goes into the pilot bearing on the back of the motor. The transmission must come out and then you can access the slave cylinder which will be held on by a couple bolts. Once the transmission is out the slave cylinder (which most of the time comes with a new throw out bearing) will be easy to replace. Its not too bad of a job.
you just bleed it like the brakes pump the clutch pedal 6 or 7 times hold to the floor and have someone open the bleeder screw on the tranny tighten and repeat until al the air is out of the slave i think its on the driver side of the transmission make sure u fill ur fluid before and after u bleed it
One and a half years ago, I had to replace the clutch masrer cylinder on my 1993 Bronco, with a 5.0 liter V-8 and 5 speed stick shift. The push rod from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder broke. I had to get a tow home. I replaced the clutch master cylinder and filled up the fluid reservoir. After filling, I pumped it many times until I could feel resistance on the pedal. As the days passed, the pressure increased more and more. Here it is, a year and a half later, it still works. Technically, you're SUPPOSED to individually bleed the master cylinder and slave cylinder. I've done it many years ago on my '73 Landcruiser, '63 Willys Jeep, '72 Datsun 1200 and '74 Datsun Pick up truck. But I didn't bleed my Bronco.
There are several types of transmissions for the 1989 F-150. If you are working on an 89 F-150 with a 5 speed manual transmission and a 300 straight six you have to remove the transmission. it is located in the bell housing, you should get a clutch kit as well and put it in at the same time. The more common type is for a 4 speed manual transmission. This variety has an external slave cylinder and can be replaced without removing the transmission. While looking at the clutch housing from the underside of the truck you will see a leaver and the slave cylinder. Simply depress the leaver and slide the cylinder out of its bracket. The replacement will have a strap on it to keep the cylinder from extending until it is in place. Replace in reverse order of removal and then cut the strap. In the model that I used the strap also provided a cushion for the joint so it stayed in place. After you finish installation be sure to bleed the clutch system. This is usually accomplished by filling the clutch reservoir and then using a bleeding screw on the slave. In some cases you will have to remove the feed line until the system is primed. You may also want to move the leaver the slave is connected to back and forth several times to get any air pockets out. Refill the reservoir as needed and then check the clutch pedal. On the external slave systems you should get a hard pedal when the system is bleed and a soft pedal if air is still in the system. Most replacement slave cylinders come with instructions in the box so if you have further questions you should refer to those instructions.
disconnect the hose from the clutch master cylinder on the firewall. I has a little retaining pin in it use a nail or something small to push it out then you can drop the tranny with a 4 foot line connected to it once you see the slave cylinder you can disconnect the hose the same way the hose was connected to the clutch master cylinder I learned this when I had to replance my slave cylinder
Linkage or cable worn. If it will go into reverse when the engine isn't running, it is probably the slave cylinder getting weak and not disengaging the pressure plate completely. With the engine off, give the clutch pedal 2-3 quick pumps and try getting it in reverse. If it does, it's either the slave or master cylinder and the slave goes bad more often.
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