How do you change a 2001 Kia clutch?

It's not an easy job! You have to disconnect the tie rods from the wheel spindles. Then you pull the CV shafts out of the gearbox. Then disconnect the speedometer cable and any other wires or sensors. You'll then disconnect the clutch linkage and start removing the bolts holding the transmission to the engine (they will go around the transmission in a circle). Once those are out, you should be able to pull the transmission away from the engine.

There will be 5 main components to a manual transmission clutch system:

1. Flywheel: This is the engine side of the setup. It's like a brake rotor and the pressure plate is bolted to this.

2. Pressure plate: This is bolted to the flywheel on the engine.

3. Clutch disk: This is sandwiched between the flywheel on the engine and the pressure plate. It is this device that transfers motion and torque therefore making the actual connection between the engine and the transmission / wheels.

4. Throwout bearing: This presses up against the fingers on the pressure plate to engage/disengage the clutch

5. Pilot bearing: This sits behind the flywheel and is actually pressed into the back of the crankshaft.

You'll want to unbolt the pressure plate from the engine flywheel. The clutch plate should pretty much fall down when you take it off... Examine the springs on the pressure plate, are any broken? if you shake it, does it rattle? How is the surface? It should be shiny like a brake rotor and free of gouges and rust. If not, you'll need to replace it. If it looks ok, get a can of brake cleaner and spray it down to clean it up. set it aside.

Look at the flywheel. It also should look smooth with no gouges or major deep lines. If, so, it needs to come off to be machined (not an easy job).

There are many ways to remove a pilot bushing from a crankshaft. I prefer the wet toilet paper method. If you stick your finger inside the center of the flywheel, you'll feel the pilot bushing. Wad up a handful of wet toilet paper and stuff it in the hold slowly. Then take a wooden dowel and hammer it into the toilet paper in the center, if all goes well, the toilet paper will force it's way under the pilot bushing and squeeze it out. Clean out the pilot bearing hole and replace with a new one.

ALWAYS REPLACE THE THROWOUT BEARING! Look at the back of the transmission. There should be a throwout bearing sitting in a clip on the shaft. Remove this and replace it with a new one. Lube the part of the shaft that the pilot bearing travels on with antiseize.

Get a clutch alignment tool that matches your clutch tooth arrangement and put the new clutch disk on it. Slide the disk and alignment tool into the flywheel and also the pilot bushing. It should line up and sit nicely.

Then take your pressure plate and line it up with the mounting holes on the flywheel over the clutch and alignment tool. tighten loosely. Once all bolts are in place, torque them to at least 60 PSI in a star pattern. You now should be able to remove the clutch alignment tool and the clutch should stay in place between the flywheel and the pressure plate.

Line your transmission shaft up with the hole and gently slide it in through the pressure place, through the clutch plate, through the flywheel and into the pilot bushing. You must keep the transmission level w/the engine or you'll mess up the clutch plate alignment and need to loosen the pressure plate to re-align it again. Once it's lined up and flush, replace the bolts following the same torquing procedure as above. Grab the clutch fork and try to move the clutch by hand (it should be possible on that car). It should be hard, but not impossible. It should be pretty quiet w/ no squeaks. Attach all cables and clutch linkage. Test the clutch from inside the car. It should engage and disengage quietly with no major friction. Insert axles and reconnect to the spindles. Attach tie rods. Make sure everything is tight.

Test out the car and clutch. If it's slipping, or engaging too close to the floor, you may need to adjust the linkage.