Presume that you have Ac & Power Steering, w/o AC is similar. 1. Drive car onto ramp. 2. Under the car, remove dirtguard underneath Ac compressor.(10mm bolts) 3. Outside the car (right front wheel), look through wheelwell between AC compressor & power steering you will see 14mm nut that lock tension bolt, loosen it couple turns. 4. Loosen tension bolt (12mm) as necessary. 5. From top of car, loosen top power steering bolt (14mm). (I use magnetic pickup to help put 14mm socket through hole in pulley of power steering pump.) 6. Now you can move power steering pump & take out serpentine belt. 7. Loosen alternator bottom bolt (14mm) & tension bolt (12mm) to take out v-belt.
Secondly... for those of you who have a 1994-1997 Mazda Protege with A/C, and your AC compressor has seized up (breaking the belt in the process).... you can actually bypass the A/C!!! Just pick up the belt that is meant for Mazda Protege's that did not come with A/C.
The Autozone guys told me it wouldn't work, but I just finished putting one on with the outstanding directions listed above!
does a 2002 mazda protege have a front wheel drive
needs a coil or distributor it could also be that the alternator isn't working and the car may be draining the battery every time you drive it
yes
The ECM on the 2000 Mazda Protege is located on the backside of the engine. It is half way up above the drive shaft.
You must remove both drive belts the one that connects to the power steering and the one to the alternator. the alternator has three bolts - one long one pointing towards the back of the car - one of the left side of the alternator - and one on the right side towards the bottom of the alternator (youll have to get underneath the car to get to it) unsrew all of them and it should drop
do a full fluid change ,you might have small particulates in the holding tank
I have a Mazda protege 1996 that is parked because it will not go into drive but the engine starts?
One of two things is normally wrong. Either the battery has a dead cell and will not accept a charge, or the alternator is defective. With the engine running at idle check the voltage at the battery with a digital voltmeter set to the 20 Volt DC scale. If the alternator is good you should read from 13.5 to 15.5 Volts. If the alternator has a separate drive belt then it is possible the drive belt is broken.
I have been told that is a sign of a problem with your torque converter.
There are a couple of things that can cause your Mazda to cut off and be stuck into the drive gear. The most common causes are a broken shifting fork or a malfunctioning transmission fluid pump.
Disconnect the battery Remove the engine covers to access the alternator drive belts. Remove the electrical connections from the alternator. Slacken the bolts, remove the belt. Remove bolts, put new alternator on, tighten bolts until you can just move alternator, fit new belt, move alternator so the belt is tight and then tighten bolts to their specified torque.
Check the wheel bearings and the front brakes for wear. These are the most common places that cause the roar.