Only do one side at a time! The caliper is held in place by two long bolts, usually 10 mm, be ready for anything up to 13 mm and SAE threads up to 3/8. Remove the bolts. Using a screw driver pry the caliper piston backwards into its seat or wait until the caliper assembly is removed and then use a C-clamp to press the caliper inwards. Now to remove the caliper assembly. Using a screw driver pry from the bottom of the assembly upwards. It will come loose and basically all that have to do now is replace the pads unless the rotor needs turned or replaced in which case with the caliper removed and hanging with something suitable so you don't screw up its attached rubber hose, wriggle the rotor free. It will come off. It might have little star shaped things holding it at the threads, but just pry those off. When you are ready to replace the assembly, after the rotor has been installed, tighten one of the lug nuts down to secure it in place. Don't forget to remove the lug nut once the caliper assembly has been replaced. Now onto the caliper. Where the bolts go, press the bushings outwards . Now replace the caliper by setting it back down into its seat, bottom first. Once in place you will probably have to wriggle it back and forth until the bolt holes line up. Resecure the bolts, make sure you take off the lug nut and then put your wheels back on. Congradulations. You just saved a min. $65.00 (labor) fee by doing it yourself.
THERE ARE TWO BOLTS ON EACH SIDE OF THE CALIPER REMOVE THOSE AND PULL THE CALIPER OFF
I'd have those looked at while your car still stops
I would suspect a defective Master Cylinder. Fluid leak.
its very easy , just one scroll behind the caliper you have to adjust , it takes 10 minutes
If you doing front disc brakes it's really easy i first did them when i was 16. heres a very detailed site with great pictures. http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_replace_brakes.htm
Tires,inner tie rod bushings, if the steering wheel shakes when brakes are applied - brake rotors warped.
what is the best way to bleed brakes when installing new caliper on front left wheel
The caliper is one part of the brake system.
Probably has a sticky brake caliper or sticky brake caliper sliders. Who ever replaced the brake pads should have seen that.
Disc brakes at the top of the caliper Drum brakes at the top of the wheel cylinder
two possible causes......it could mean you have a bad brake hose or a sticking caliper
According to the following site it is a 7mm hex. http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1993-chrysler-town-and-country--a/2003-chrysler-town-and-country-changing-front-brakes-vt384213.html
Should be disc brakes and not adjustable caliper slides to compensate for lining wear unless caliper slides are frozen
be sure to purcahse the tool to "screw" the caliper piston in. If you try to push the piston in on rear disc brakes you will damange the caliper.
It is a special bolt/pin that allows the disc brake caliper to float. There is usually two per caliper.
Caliper and Disk brakes
It is a tool to reset the piston on rear discs brakes
Yes, I recommend you bleed all brakes starting at the RR then LR, then RF, and end at the LF. It may not be absolutely necessary but then again it may be. To be safe just bleed them all.
rubber section of brake line to caliper clogged and in need of replacement
Brass washers replaced when caliper replaced?Fitting tightened completely?
Your brakes are sticking could be either the brake caliper or the hose going to the caliper
It has rear disc brakes with the parking brake built into the caliper.
Front brakes or back> front is really simple, when you take the caliper off, the caliper is held on with 2 1/2 bolts... the rotor will come off if your going to replace that to, it will slide off the spindels when the caliper is removed... put the new pads in place and slide the caliper back on and put the 2 bolts back in to hold the caliper in place.
Caliper slides frozen? Rear drum brakes? May need to be adjusted
STICKING BRAKE CALIPER