The process depends on which motor mount you need to replace. 95 percent of the time the problem is in the front mount on these front wheel drive Chryslers.
Raise the front of the vehicle on ramps, or securely on jackstands. Never work on a vehicle supported by a jack alone. Support the engine with a jack, with a block of wood between the jack and the oil pan, so you don't damage it. You don't need to jack the engine up by any amount, just to take a little of the weight off the mounts. Remove the through-bolt that mounts the insulator (the rubber part you're replacing) to the bracket. Remove the nuts and bolts (should be 4 total) that mount the bracket to the lower radiator support. That bracket should be free. Bend the tabs that retain the insulator in the mounting bracket to straighten them out, so you can force the insulator out. Note its orientation in the bracket. You'll need to press or gently tap the insulator out of the bracket. Insert the new insulator the same way the old one came out, and bend the retaining tabs to secure it. You may need to compress the new insulator a bit to get it in the bracket. Installation is reverse of removal.
Left (Passenger's side / engine) mount:
With a jack supporting the engine, remove the two down-bolts (13mm) that secure the mount to the wheel well. Remove the through-bolt (in-line with engine). At this point you should be able to jack the engine up slightly to aid removal of the insulator. Note the orientation of the old insulator, and replace it. If there were any shims or washers above or below the insulator, re-use them. Installation is reverse of removal.
Right (Driver's side / transmission) mount:
With the car on jackstands, remove the Driver's side wheel and tire. remove the round (about 1/14 inch) plug from the fenderwell by pulling the center strip out with pliers (metal type) or simply pulling it (rubber type). This gives you access to the through-bolt head. Remove the lower splash shield. With a jack (and block of wood) supporting the weight of the transmission, remove the through-bolt. It may have a long (2 1/2 inch) nut on the other end, accessible from above. Lower the transmission slightly and you'll see 3 bolts holding a steel bracket to the transmission. Remove these bolts, and remove the bracket and insulator. Bend the tabs back and tap the insulator out of the bracket. Insert the new insulator and bend the tabs to secure it. Installation is the reverse of removal.
After changing any engine mount, always check engine centering / axle length. You'll need to loosen the axle nuts which may or may not be accessible with the wheels on, depending if you have steel rims and hubcaps, or cast aluminum wheels. Either way, loosen the axle nuts which are very tight, but do not remove them. Push in the stub of the axle as far as you can on both sides. You want the amount of movement to be about equal, or within about 1/8 inch of eachother. You should be able to push both axles in by about 1/2 to 5/8 inch. If not, support the weight of the engine on a jack and block of wood, loosen the two down-bolts on the passenger's side, loosen the 4 (?) bolts holding the front mount bracket to the lower radiator support, and use a long board (or something similar) to pry the engine whichever way it needs to go. The driver's side mount is able to slide on its sleeve, so you do not need to loosen anything.
Re-check the axle length by pushing the axle stubs in, and if satisfied, tighten all engine mount bolts, remove the jack, tighten the axle nuts (180 ft-lbs), place the nut caps back on and insert a new cotter pin to retain it.
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