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This might help: http://www.automotiveforums.com/t316581.html
If you take out the fan knob you have to pulll hard it will come out then get needle nose pliers and gently take the bulb out.(it is in the center u will see it) you have to get bulb at the dealer. then same prosses puting it back gently put it in. it only goes in one way and there is only one bulb but it light up the whole thing.
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Needs Answer How to change heater control light bulb in a 2003 Volkswagen Jetta?
Begin by removing the heater control cover. Take hold of the lightbulb, push in and turn at the same time. The lightbulb will come out and can be replaced in the same manner.
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I was struggling with this myself.. You might have got your answer already, but in case you haven't... Turn the middle dial to zero (the fan control) and pull on it with some pilers. You should probably wrap then with a cloth as to not scratch the dial. You'll see the bulb and have to use some needlenose pilers to pull it out..
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