I dont know if you have changed the intake manifold yet on that Ford but you need one special socket which is a torx socket about 5 to 5 inchs long to get one bolt which is hidden for the upper part of the intake and you will also need to plastic fuel line removal tools , a green one and a yellow one , just ask at your local parts store I'm sure they will know , other than that a normal socket set should get you on your way to removing that intake.
F 350, 351Windsor V8 manifold gasket:
This isn't necessarily in sequence, but the highlights of this job as we did it are all here.
The problem we discovered, was four of the manifold bolts, two front and two back, were corroded. One was broken, causing the coolant leak. The other broke as I was loosening it. Apparently these bolts rest IN THE COOLING JACKET, which is a rather hostile environment for a bolt. Bad design by Ford. Leaks may be caused by the untimely rusting and breaking of these bolts. They needed to be removed and replaced. To get to them, weï¿½d have to remove the upper and lower manifolds and replace their gaskets.
What we used:
A vehicle manual. Ours is published by Haynes. No manual is perfect. Things are left out, not mentioned, glossed over...sigh.
Upper intake manifold gasket. (No sealant required).
Lower Manifold Gasket: (Ours was manufactured by ï¿½Felproï¿½) It should come with instructions. The manual covers installation too. Ours also came with a new distributor "O" ring.
Two or three pressurized cans of brake cleaning solution.
WD40 or similar penetrating lubricant.
Garbage bags to cover & wrap parts.
RTV gasket compound for applying the lower intake manifold gasket.
Drill, bits and screw extractor for 5/16 inch bolt.
Fuel line removal tool: NOT the fuel filter size, but for the injector fuel line rails on the manifold, two larger sizes. (My genius son made one out of a short length of copper pipe slit open and carefully filed smooth, but only because we are so far from town and THOUGHT we had all the right stuff...) And no, the manual never mentioned this.
Hex key for block engine coolant drain. In hindsight, we needed a: Face shield and rubber gloves for the engine coolant draining procedure.
A good assortment of sockets, extenders & open end wrenches.
Plastic garbage bags to protect exposed engine. A covered work area (in case the job lasts more than one day).
Oil and filter for an oil change once the job is done. We want to be sure the engine is free of coolant contaminated oil.
Timing light to re-set engine timing (the distributor has to be removed). We marked our distributor/engine position, as well as rotor/housing position. (As called for in the manual) Everything went back together perfectly.
We needed a "Torx" bit to remove one screw from the upper manifold. Of course, we didn't have one. Genius Son used a standard slot screw driver pounded into the Torx bolt head. Crude but effective. Came out and went back in fine.
Masking tape and a good felt pen to number / mark all electrical & fluid connections.
We recommend: 1. Stainless steel 5/16 inch "ready rod" (threaded rod) to replace the broken and corroded manifold bolts. Hack saw or cutting wheel to cut the ready rod. 5/16 inch nuts and washers. We used 1/4 inch bolt sized washers which fit nice.
2. Keep everything clean. Provide lots of well lit, clean places to set parts. Cover with plastic to protect from rain, dust. We used garbage bags. Brake cleaning spray kept manifolds clean. (Amazing amounts of dust and mouse poop on the manifold).
3. We marked the hood brackets with a felt pen, then removed the hood. Pretty well had to for this job. Put the hinge bolts back into the hood and set the hood down somewhere safe. Hood went back together fine, except I kept dropping the bolts into the engine compartment. Probably should have done it in daylight...
4. We took pictures with a digital camera. Turns out we only really needed the photo evidence once. Lesson: mark even the wire plug near the coil which is not plugged into anything...saves a lot of time. Advice for the inexperienced: Get a clip board and pencil and lots of paper. Take notes. Go methodically.
Bits & Pieces: We drained the radiator, as per the manualï¿½s recommended sequence. Then we had to drain the remaining coolant that would interfere with the intake manifold removal. We removed the hex head bolt from the driver's side of the engine block. Man, did it ever spew! Wear a full face shield, gloves, have a bucket handy and keep your lips pursed tight. Have clean water handy for rinsing. When that hex bolt comes out...look out.
We WERE going to remove the passenger side hex bolt, but it required removing the starter. We decided not to go there. The first plug drained enough fluid to drop the level at the manifold sufficiently to proceed with the job. Still, we know we will need to eventually drain and replace our radiator fluid, so we got a Radiator Flush Kit (a "Y" connector, two clamps and a removable hose thread plug). We'll install and use this after the manifold job.
Upper manifold gasket. This needs no sealant. Most people would not even replace it. We chose to simply because of the work it took to do the whole job. It seemed the best thing to do. Remove the upper manifold, poke each bolt into a single piece of cardboard in the same pattern they were in the engine. Makes reassembly a snap. Do the same for the lower manifold.
We weren't able to get stainless steel studs for our manifold job, but we felt darned lucky we were able to get anything... The Ford dealer didn't have replacement bolts, neither did an engine rebuilder. Even a very well known auto parts supplier (who assured us over the phone that he had "any bolt you could ever need") failed to deliver. We ended up settling for "alloy" studs cut by a very unpleasant person at a welding shop.
We had to drill out the broken bolts (both at the front of the manifold). We drenched the broken stud with WD40 and let them sit overnight. We then used the second size from the smallest screw extractor (Required a 15/64ths drill bit). We pounded it in and eased out those bad boys with hardly any trouble.
The manifold is not heavy, but it is awkward. Young people willing to stand in the engine compartment and lift is a very handy way around using a hoist. Set the manifold down gently on clean cardboard. Follow the gasket installation instructions, which call for carefully cleaning all mating surfaces. We used lots of Brake cleaning solvent to keep things as clean as possible.
Two metal brackets which attach to one of the rear studs were almost impossible to remove. They braced two tubes which feed down to the exhaust manifold. We CUT the brackets open at the bolt hole with a hack saw, right next to the bolt. We then pried the brackets open and off the bolt. This is hard work. Remember: keep wrenches and hammers away from the fragile injectors. After the reinstall: Pried the cut bracket loops back around the (new) manifold bolt, screwed down the nut and they are holding just fine. Clean out any rust & corrosion. Thread the new studs in finger tight, with the washer and nut following closely. When you do the final torque, they will tighten just fine.
Final torquing of the lower manifold bolts took three basic passes, following the pattern given in the manual. A few light ï¿½touch upï¿½ passes were necessary as the gasket squished down.
Close the radiator drain and refill with water. (We will do a complete flush and replenish once the manifold is clear of any leaks.)
A few days now and all is still good. One small leak from a hose clamp. Itï¿½s done. We welcome anyone else's experience and opinions on this or similar jobs. Always ready to learn,
Read this post and used it to help me remove the intake manifold on my 97 F250 5.8L engine.
My problem was a mouse nest under the upper manifold. "Mickey" made himself a nice nest in the tunnel under the upper intake manifold. (Nice design Ford!) He also chewed open one of the wires to #7 injector.
I was able to trouble shoot the problem and after removing the massive nest, was able to see the chewed wire by removing the distributor cap and usiing many light sources to see into the tunnel.
Following Manifold Monkey narrative I was able to tackle this job and restore my truck to good running order (running on all 8 cylinders).
My thanks to Manifold Monkey for providing a good set of instructions that helped me do a repair that initially I was afraid to tackle.
jaguar 2001 Lower Engine Intake Manifold Gasket
The manifold gasket is the same as the plenum gasket. The manifold gasket is a barrier between the manifold and the engine block.
you will have to unbolt the exhaust pipe from the manifold pipe and then you unbolt the manifold pipe from the engine, remove old gasket and make sure both sides are clean of the old gasket and then install new gasket and bolt manifold back onto engine.
What engine? and ensure it is a bad gasket, not an intake plentum.
The year, engine size and if it is the intake manifold or an exhaust manifold gaskets would help.
Remove the manifold and change the gasket. And voila!!!
Yes. Major job, not for the inexperienced novice.
Remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. Remove the manifold bolts. Remove the manifold. Remove the manifold gasket and clean the surface. Reverse the process to install the new manifold gasket.
Remove the retaining bolts from your 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse manifold. The manifold will come off. Remove the manifold gasket. Clean the surface and put the new manifold gasket on.
The exhaust manifold needs to have a gasket in place to help seal the juncture between the manifold and the engine. After the gasket and gasket sealer are in place, tighten the bolts for the exhaust manifold. The exhaust pipe can then be replaced on the new exhaust manifold.
Assuming this is a 4.3L engine, the upper intake manifold gasket would be between the upper intake manifold and the lower intake manifold.
Remove the intake manifold retaining bolts on your 2003 Chevrolet Malibu. The manifold will come off. Remove the manifold gasket and clean the surface. Put the new manifold gasket on and reverse the process.