First, what makes you think the oil pump is bad? If it's just a matter of low oil pressure I suggest that it probably isn't the oil pump, instead I'd look at the rod and/or main bearings. Either case, it will be easy to check when you replace the oil pump. First you have to drop the engine pan. That may require lifting the engine a little off the motor mounts, or it may require removing cross bracing. Whichever is necessary, once the pan is removed you should be able to find the oil pickup. The pickup is connected to the oil pump and the oil pump is usually held in place with 2 bolts, but it may be more. When you drop the oil pump you will probably find a rod that drives the pump. The rod will most likely come out with the pump. Be careful to not turn the rod or the engine until the rod is completely out of the engine. Often that rod connects to the distributor and if you allow it to change position you will have to set-up the distributor again. Replace the pump by going in reverse. But I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that while you have the pan down, you should remove the cap from one or two of the rod bearings and one or two of the main bearings. It would be a good idea to get something called "plastigauge" (or something like that, depending on the brand) It's a little piece of plastic that you lay across a bearing between the babbit and the crankshaft. Tighten down the bearing cap with the plastigauge in place then remove the bearing cap and measure the width of the plastigauge. There will be a chart included with the package to tell you if the bearing is worn too much. I suspect that if you have low oil pressure it is because the babbit is worn from the bearings, allowing oil to seep out around the surfaces. Be sure to wipe down the bearing surfaces before you use the plastigauge so that the oil doesn't give you a false reading. Also, if you pull a bearing cap and find that you have a lot of copper showing on the bearing surface, it's done. Babbit is grey but is backed with copper. once you've worn through the babbit, just rebuild the engine.
5000cc engine will fit .
My guess would be the fuel pump. I dont know how to change it, because i havent had to replace the one on my truck yet, but i would guess the fuel pump.
Same direction as the engine.
The oil pump is bolted to the bottom of the engine , inside the oil pan
Probably the sending unit.
The EGR valve on a 1979 F150 with a 302 is located in the center of the engine. It is close to the firewall.
It's the block heater. I had the same problem.
Its on the upper right hand side of the motor right above the coil
1986 f150 emisson light on is their restn set
From what I could find , it looks like the 1985 F-150 with the 302 ( 5.0 L ) was available with the VIN - " F " - 302 with 2 barrel carb or the VIN - " N " - 302 EFI 1985 was the first year a fuel injected 302 was available in the F-150
Yes ... the 302s are all the same....the engine mounts are different and the transmission bell housing may be slightly different, but the engines are all the same.
i got an 85 f150 with the 302 and i have 140 to 145 horse
1hour Answer Maybe one hour if you have done it before and have the tools. Otherwise, three to four times the time estimate.
5.5 quarts 5 in the engine half in the filter.
No the 390 is a big block the 302 is a small block.
yeah if u no how to do it
yes they are basicly the same truck
6 quarts ( 5.7 liters ) with engine oil filter change , according to the Owner Guide
timing cover, it bolts to the block and covers the timing chain and gears, then the water pump bolts to it.
Yes. Mine did anyways.