Removing the front rotors was no problem on my 2005 Hyundai Elantra. The Elantra has two recessed Phillips screws holding each rotor to the hub. The screws won't come loose with just a screw driver; and you might strip the slot. Spray the screws with PB penetrating fluid (available at most auto parts stores) and let soak as directed. Then use a hand screwdriver impact tool (available at most hardware or tool stores) and a hammer to break the screws loose without stripping the Phillips slot. The screwdriver impact tool has a Phillips screw driver bit on the end of a hand held metal shaft. The screwdriver impact tool isn't just a screw driver; it's a specialized tool that directs the impact from a hammer into a simultaneous rotation of the screw driver bit. With the bit in the screw slot and the tool set to counterclockwise rotation, smack the end of the impact tool a time or two with a hammer. The impact from the hammer will break the screw loose without stripping the slot. Then remove both screws with a regular Phillips screw driver. After removing the screws, I used a rubber mallet to work the rotors off. When reinstalling new or re-surfaced rotors, reinstall the Phillips screws hand tight with a screw driver.
I've owned many cars and have always changed my own brakes. I've never had to use a puller, grinder, sledge hammer or cutting wheel. Even the most stubborn, rusted rotors have come off easily after spraying liberally with penetrating fluid and having the patience to let them soak a while.
VERY unfortunately, you have to remove the rotor with the steering knuckle and then have the rotor pressed off! I don't know, but you may be able to use a large gear puller to remove them. Of course, the cotter pin and nut must be removed first.
Mine were'NT too bad so I opted to use a 4.5" hand grinder to clean them up a bit. I first used a hammer to knock off the rust buildup (unbelievable for a two year old car), then a wheel to remove the glazing, then a wire brush (on the grinder) to finish up the job.
Long job overall, but saved me the over $300 that Hyundai wanted to do it.
Good luck! I tried removing the rotor with a puller, however, when I did it, the one side of the rotor actually snapped off. It took about 4 hours of a sledgehammer, heat, and a can of penetrating oil to finally free the rotor. When all is said and done, the rotor came off in about 6 pieces. Most of the pieces were around where the lug nuts come through, the actual disk didn't break (would have saved time and energy if it did). In my book, it would have been well worth $300 to let someone else deal with it.
Do not, I repeat, do not waste your time! After working on this an entire weekend, the hubs would not move. Brought them to a machine shop, and with 20 tons of pressure, they wouldn't budge. No amount of heating, hammering, or pulling helped! The hubs would not move from the rotors. I ended up having to get new hubs and bearings. Go to any Hyundai dealer and tell them you are having trouble removing a rotor and they will ask if you are driving an Elantra.
Im new and want to add something here. All the Elantra's rotors are hard to get off. No matter how hard you hit them with a sledge hammer they will never come off UNLESS you take a grinder and a cutting wheel and cut either side of the rotor being careful not to hit the lug bolts or the hub inside. Cut all the way through the part that the brakes hit and then cut as much through the base as you can. I didnt have a cutting wheel so i used a grinding wheel, but I'll bet a cutting wheel works better. After that, hit it with a sledge hammer, it will come off in pieces. Don't worry about having to turn them, they are cheaper to buy new ones than to have them turned. Also, some have 2 screws on the front. Make sure you take the 2 screws out before doing all this. These are to help align the rotor on the hub.
Just did this job on 2004 Hyundai Elantra. I did not have to go through the steps mentioned above. After removing the two screws described above, I used at three prong puller and lots of WD-40, a small sledge hammer. First I carefully hit the rotor
all around the edges and near the lugs. You should use some emery cloth or sandpaper to clean up the outer edge of the hub. These were HARD to get off and it took a lot of patience to get a millimeter with the puller, back it off, tap the rotor back on, spray it with WD-40 and repeat about 50 times. Eventually I worked it off the hub. The biggest problem that I noticed was the tendency for the rotor to not come off "even" pulling to one side or the other which then jams it on the hub. You have to work slow and make sure you are pulling straight and even off the hub. Eventually I got them. Good Luck!
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