Spark Plugs and Wires
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How do you change the spark plugs on a 1998 Subaru Legacy 4-cylinder wagon?

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Wiki User
August 21, 2008 3:26AM

everyone i know has their own way of doing it but i just use a

6" extension on a 3/8 air ratchet. if you work at it a bit you can

finangle it down in there and get them out. you have to remove the

air box that holds your air filter out of the way and remove the

washer fluid bottle on the otherside. You should replace plugwires,

coilpack and plugs all in one go. Plugwires and a coil pack are $65

& $100 at the dealer, respectively (you can do 30% to 50%

better buying them online if you have the time). I bought $8

Autolite APP3924�s in place of $30 factory original NGK PFR5B11�s,

but suit yourself. Gap s/b .044�. Buy some anti-sieze lube too

while you�re at it. Driver�s side: Remove the battery (10mm wrench)

and set aside. Take out the two 13mm nuts holding the window washer

jug and lift the vessel to free it up. Don�t bother disconnecting

it, just rotate it onto its side and place it where the battery

used to be. Passenger side: Loosen the clamp that attaches the

flexible boot to the airbox. Undo the two springclips that retain

the aircleaner cover. This should free up the connecting section

from the air cleaner to the airbox. Lift it up and gently rotate it

out of the way; no need to undo any electrical connections. Note

the second airhose hidden under the flexible boot. Be sure to

reconnect that when you put things back together or the engine

won�t run � guess how I found that out? Remove the two 13mm bolts

holding the lower half of the aircleaner box and gradually pull the

box away from the fender (there�s a rubber plug holding it in). Now

you can get at the plugwires. Note how they are routed � the ones

nearest the firewall go to the plugs nearest the firewall. Remember

that when you put things back. Now is a good time to clean things

up so you won�t shovel crap back into the hole later on. You�ll

probably need large pliers to remove the wires from the plugs; you

can see them but a firm direct grip is �problematic. They won�t

want to come out but they can be persuaded. Before you start

pulling, free the rubber from the head first - a stick or even a

bent screwdriver helps there. Once they�re off the sparklugs are

exposed. You�ll have just over an inch and a quarter of space

between the head and the body. Using a 3/8� drive set, if you

insert a 5/8� sparkplug wrench and then a short extension, the end

of the extension will be just visible. Connect a breaker wrench to

that and pray as you loosen. Switch to a ratchet once things are

freed up if you want. After the plug is free, remove the wrench

parts one at a time, and then the plug. Put a clean new plug

(washer and top-nut included) with a tiny amount of antisieze

smeared ONLY on the threads and none on the ceramic into the plug

wrench. Feed into the sparkplug hole followed by the shore

extension. Use your fingers to get it started then add the ratchet.

Once you hit bottom, you want to torque to 20 in/lbs. or until the

washer collapses. Repeat for each cylinder. Remove and replace the

coil pack now if you were going to (10mm), then re-route the

plugwires. Make very sure they are fully seated onto the tops of

the plugs. If you do any twisting (don�t) twist only in a clockwise

direction so as to not unscrew the little nut on the top of the

sparkplug. All done but reassembly now, so in reverse order from

the directions above, put the aircleaner back together, put the

window washer back in place, reinstall the battery, look everything

over carefully, and take a test drive.

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