everyone i know has their own way of doing it but i just use a 6" extension on a 3/8 air ratchet. if you work at it a bit you can finangle it down in there and get them out. you have to remove the air box that holds your air filter out of the way and remove the washer fluid bottle on the otherside. You should replace plugwires, coilpack and plugs all in one go. Plugwires and a coil pack are $65 & $100 at the dealer, respectively (you can do 30% to 50% better buying them online if you have the time). I bought $8 Autolite APP3924�s in place of $30 factory original NGK PFR5B11�s, but suit yourself. Gap s/b .044�. Buy some anti-sieze lube too while you�re at it. Driver�s side: Remove the battery (10mm wrench) and set aside. Take out the two 13mm nuts holding the window washer jug and lift the vessel to free it up. Don�t bother disconnecting it, just rotate it onto its side and place it where the battery used to be. Passenger side: Loosen the clamp that attaches the flexible boot to the airbox. Undo the two springclips that retain the aircleaner cover. This should free up the connecting section from the air cleaner to the airbox. Lift it up and gently rotate it out of the way; no need to undo any electrical connections. Note the second airhose hidden under the flexible boot. Be sure to reconnect that when you put things back together or the engine won�t run � guess how I found that out? Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the lower half of the aircleaner box and gradually pull the box away from the fender (there�s a rubber plug holding it in). Now you can get at the plugwires. Note how they are routed � the ones nearest the firewall go to the plugs nearest the firewall. Remember that when you put things back. Now is a good time to clean things up so you won�t shovel crap back into the hole later on. You�ll probably need large pliers to remove the wires from the plugs; you can see them but a firm direct grip is �problematic. They won�t want to come out but they can be persuaded. Before you start pulling, free the rubber from the head first - a stick or even a bent screwdriver helps there. Once they�re off the sparklugs are exposed. You�ll have just over an inch and a quarter of space between the head and the body. Using a 3/8� drive set, if you insert a 5/8� sparkplug wrench and then a short extension, the end of the extension will be just visible. Connect a breaker wrench to that and pray as you loosen. Switch to a ratchet once things are freed up if you want. After the plug is free, remove the wrench parts one at a time, and then the plug. Put a clean new plug (washer and top-nut included) with a tiny amount of antisieze smeared ONLY on the threads and none on the ceramic into the plug wrench. Feed into the sparkplug hole followed by the shore extension. Use your fingers to get it started then add the ratchet. Once you hit bottom, you want to torque to 20 in/lbs. or until the washer collapses. Repeat for each cylinder. Remove and replace the coil pack now if you were going to (10mm), then re-route the plugwires. Make very sure they are fully seated onto the tops of the plugs. If you do any twisting (don�t) twist only in a clockwise direction so as to not unscrew the little nut on the top of the sparkplug. All done but reassembly now, so in reverse order from the directions above, put the aircleaner back together, put the window washer back in place, reinstall the battery, look everything over carefully, and take a test drive.
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change the plugs at 60,000 miles.
Changing spark plugs on a Subaru is no different from changing spark plugs on any other car. You may have to remove parts of the air induction system to make access easier. Be sure to check the gap on the new ones and use anti-seize on the threads.
If you have no spark on the 1991 Subaru Legacy, you should check the spark plugs and spark plug wires for replacement. You should also check the battery and ignition for replacement.
un bolt it from the back side and take the plugs out, might have to take the carpet or plastic pieces in trunk out to access it, ive never done it on a subaru but i have on every other kind of car
Have a look at ; www.carbasics.co.uk
Generally, to replace spark plugs on a Subaru vehicle, the spark plug boot should be removed. Then, the old spark plugs should be removed using a socket wrench, and replaced with new ones.
Check the distributor cap for excessive wear, also check your "wires." The easiest and cheapest thing is to change out both, it is probably time. Throw some new plugs in also.
Follow recommendations in your owner's manual.
You may have a bad valve, did you replace the rotor and cap? Check the cap for cracks.
check fuel pressure, also a weak ignition coil or fould plugs could cause hard starting