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How do you change the stator on a 1994 Harley ultra classic?

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September 13, 2011 12:27AM

first be sure it needs to be changed, disconnect the plug going from the stator to the voltage regulator.

you have then isolated it from the eletrical parts of the bike and the stator can be tested towad the engne.. first for resistance. we will do the test by conecting both leads of the ohm meter to the two leads of the plug. with the meter on ohms you should get near zero resistance because it is a coil of wire, ( if you get a hi restance its bad) if you get infinte its open ( bad) then test each lead to the frame of the bike...there should infinate resistance there, one each pin to the frame ...if you a short from either pin to te frame your stator is toast, shorting out on the engine . ok if those 3 little tests are good, put the a volt ohm meter on ac volts for this next test.. theory- the stator is a long coil of varnish insulated wire with 2 ends for you to connect to wit a plug , its just sitting still while a pile of magnets rotate a round it, this induces ac current, there fore the volt meter put on ac will be needed....put it on about 100 to 200 volts ac....if the meter is digital it may be auto ranging so check your test gera for the set up...any way we expecet to see ac vltage across those pins for this test.

connect each lead to each of the out pins of the stator, meter on ac, start the bike, measure the ac voltage, watch that it rises with the rpms , revving it. up a bit .this takes about 10 seconds to see if you get a good 20 volts idle and up to 60 or better at a decent rev...if you don't you gotta stator problem....mine burned out and it was evident in the smell of the oil when i drained it. as well it failed the ac test but looked good on the ohms tests.

how to get at it- on your bike. remove any side luxuries on the side with the clutch that will prevent easy access to removing the side cover . drain the oil first. theres a torx screw under the derby cover...use new oil when you ut it back to gether and respect the environment with the old stuff...

i removed the bags, the passenger and driver foot rests to make room for taking the big chrome cover off. there are a small pile. possible 8 hex bolts that's have to come out in order to get that cover off. all coter clock wise removal. i don't mean the derby cover, you have to get the chain case off, so take those off slowly. the gasket should be replaced when you put it back on.

when you get the chain case off, you will need a very large 1 and 1/2 inch socket. or wrench to turn that nut that has to come off so we can remove that in order to et at that magnetic fly wheel that the stor hides behind... this nut removal is a doozy of a job because its reverse thread. meaning you should have the bike secured so it cant lerch when you turn it hard to remove it. the back nut on the clutch section one is easy to remove with a standard socket. you will also have to remve the 3 bolts keeping he chain tensioner in place ,and remember remove the chain and the two teethed pullies all in one piece together as a unit or you risk ruining the chain and the teeth on the sprockets.

when that's done the magnetic wheel is pulled off and you can get at the stator. its held in place by some screws....if you don't have good tools and decent skills get a friend or a shop to do this work...ride hard....Darren