I don't know the newer fuel injected engines that well, but the timing setup should be the same. Your best bet would be to pick up a Haynes manual for your truck and follow the directions.
Read about how to find Top Dead Center on the compression stroke for the #1 piston. You start from there. The timing mark on the cam gear must also be aligned with the pointer on the engine block under the timing cover.
If you pull the distributor cap you can verify that the rotor contact is at the #1 post to be sure you have TDC on the compression stroke.
Then you release the spring tensioner pulley under the timing cover with a large prybar or screwdriver and install the new belt.
Turn the crank pulley clockwise with the tranny in neutral and the e-brake on to make sure nothing is binding before starting it up again.
Good luck. It's not that hard, just methodical.
Its not as easy as that!You also need to take off the crankshaft pulley in order to put the belt onto the sprocket on the crank shaft.Also you cant simply turn your crank until the rotor aligns with #1 wire terminal , because if the belt is broken then the rotor wont turn , this is because the oil pump sprocket is independent from the crank sprocket, the oil pump sprocket is what turns your distributor.You can still turn the rotor manually though.
Unless it is a DIS ignition. Then you don't have to worry about the rotor. However DO NOT use anything but a harmonic balancer puller (i know it should go without saying..but...) because if it is a DIS then the Harmonic Balancer has very thin fins on it for the CPS. Once you get TDC and the balancer off..the new belt will slide right on and then reverse the steps
Just a minor point here, the 1990 2.3 will be a DIS.
My 1986 Mitchell manual shows a TFI module in the wiring diagram which would indicate the presence of a distributor. My 1990 Ranger is a DIS system so somewhere between 1986 and 1990 Ford went to DIS.
There are two plugs on the side of the transmission. Remove the lower plug to drain and refill in the upper plug. Also, this transmission uses automatic transmission fluid (ATF) not the heavy 90W oil that older models used.
You have to take the transmission completely out of the vehicle. Hope this helps. Clay Colorado.
Remove the Ford Ranger automatic transmission drain plug. The drain plug is in the bottom of the transmission. Allow the oil to drain out and replace the plug. Fill the transmission with new transmission fluid.
I am trying to change the oil transmission on my ford ranger 1998 but I do not know what kind of oil it needs. it's a 4 cylender
You drain and refill at the transmission from underneath the vehicle.
The best thing to do is to take it to a repair shop that has a transmission flushing machine. That will change all of the fluid in the system.
Why? There is no need to change the manual transmission fluid in a 2 year old vehicle.
which year model, what transmission do you have, and which speed sensor are we talking about?
Should be a drain plug in the bottom of transmission Should be a fill-check plug in the side of transmission
every 100k when using AMSOIL Synthetic Universal Transmission Fluid
the slave cylander is located in the transmission on the 2002 Ford Ranger. Better see a mechanic to do the job.
No such vehicle exists.