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First, check the slab to see if one side edge has been slightly bevelled. If so, the short side of the bevelled edge is meant to go against the stop on the strike plate side. Next, check the opening, particularly at the hinge and top jamb intersection for squareness with a framing square. If it appears square, you can proceed; if not, you would need to trim the top of the slab to mirror the amount of out-of-squareness of the hinge jamb to top jamb intersection. Once the top of the door slab has been addressed, you can cut the door for length, leaving an appropriate amount of space at the bottom for carpet or floor clearance. Next, you could mark and mortise in the hinges; this is best done by either very careful measurements or holding the door into the opening and shimming the bottom until there is roughly an eighth of an inch clearance between the top of the door and the top jamb, then marking the location of the hinges. Once the hinges are in place, temporarily set the door in place and close it. If it hits the strike jamb before closing, you would need to mark these areas on the slab with a pencil and determine how much will be necessary to remove so that when the door is trimmed, the gap between the closed door and jamb will be even from top to bottom. If the amount needing removal is more than 1/4", you may want to saw it off, allowing a sufficient amount to be left on for planing smooth. Smaller than 1/4", you would probably want to remove with a block plane or power hand plane. Finally, after the door is fit, round over any sharp edges left from planing or sawing with sandpaper and finish by installing the remaining hardware.

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โˆ™ 2009-01-04 22:37:49
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