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I agree with the checks below but to get to the motor in the Odyssey van requires a special tool to remove inner panel in the rear of the van. The tool I found is listed in the service manual which is available on feeBay or on line from Helm Inc.). The tool is listed as a Snap-On #A-177A or some variant of the tool. I paid $35 (in spring of 2010) to have it shipped in. You will also need a small floor jack and rags, towels or something to protect the door while it's held up by the jack. I used an old sweatshirt. Sat the jack parallel to the van so

if needed I could slide it back and forth (found I could just leave it in place so a bottle type

jack could also be used.)

Be sure to buy a genuine Honda service manual available on feeBay or from Helm, Inc on the internet. They are worth their price. I bought the electrical manual for it to.

There are three points where you must slide the tool down behind the panel. The pop type fittings are nylon and are spaced along the rear windows. Don't try to use it along the front edge of the panel as it will snap the melt on type plastic cover (it's done during part's manufacture). Be sure to slide the tool down from the top edge nearest the window. Move slowly and carefully. There are only three of the connectors. The rear speaker and it's mounting screws along with a screw that holds the inner panel in place is behind the speaker.

Once these are removed the panel can be carefully pried from the bottom edge. I started

near the tail gate and worked it forward. (I did the right side on mine)

Behind the panel there is a nylon piece that is the drum for the cable that opens and closes the door by winding the cable one way or the other. There is a handle sort of peice that must be pulled out to release the drum so you can rotate it manually to loosen the cable to provide enough slack in the cable to remove it from the sliding bracket (on the outside of the van behind a cover plate over the center channel) which has the rollers (2 nylon and one metal [nylon ones always break]). The outside bracket is held on by one bolt in the door frame (you have to manually slide the door open to see the bolt). The rear light must be

removed to get at the two phillip screws on the back edge of the cover plate. The rear light

has two tabs that must be flipped up to expose bolts that hold the light on. The tailgate must be raised to see the tabs in the channel of the tailgate. A thin screwdriver fits into tiny slots in the black plastic of the light. Once the two bolts are removed the light must be "popped" rearward. Use electrical tape on a flat blade of a screwdriver to help slide the light out of the mount. There is a nylon pin that sits in a rubber grommet on the front leading edge of the light that holds the light in place (it can be tough the first time it's removed [when reassembling the tailight I used silicone spray on the nylon pin to help it come out easier the next time]. There are wires leading to the light that go through a rubber grommet. The grommet must be removed carefully to find the connector for the light's wires. I put fresh dielectric grease on the female side of the connector when I put it back together to keep it from corroding later.

You will need a small jack to hold the door level while working on the slider. I used an old sweat shirt to keep the door from getting scratched.

Check the fuse first. Then check for power at the motor when switches are operated, then check for power at the switches, then for power at the fuse. look closely at the wires at and near the motor and the switches and as far as you can follow them, look for obvious problems, loose connections, look for frays where the wires take a bend or go through a hole or are near anything moving. Your problem can have many possible causes such as a poor ground, loose connection, frayed wire, bad switch, blown fuse, faulty relay, blown motor, or possibly even a problem with the mechanical aspect that opens the door. Be careful when working on these parts as you could easily scratch the door or inner panel.

There are three large bolts that hold the bracket onto the sliding door. You can reach them

when the door is open. I was able to slide the bracket toward the rear of the van to work on it. Might want to place some protective tape (painter's wide tape) on the bottom side of the center channel to keep from scratching the paint. The cable has small drum like pieces inside the bracket the cable must be slack enough to slide the drums out of the bracket. They are a lot like the ones you see on bicycle brake handles or motorcycle clutch cables. There is a slot for the cable to be slid out of position. Don't kink the cable.

The bracket with rollers can be found on the net from Majestic Honda in RI, for about $70 (spring of 2010 price). I found the local dealer to charge $95 for the same part and I would have had to pre pay and drive to pick it up. These brackets are known to need replacement. Dealer wanted nearly $200 plus parts to change it out. I took about 2-3 hours to do the job. I'm not a fast mechanic but I did get the job done myself.

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Q: How do you fix a power sliding door on a minivan that stops responding to the buttons that tell it to open and close?
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