Ron, once you have the new brake shoes installed, you have to back off the star wheel adjuster, usually located at the bottom of the backing plate. Turn wheel either counter clockwise or clockwise, you will be able to see which direction brings the bottom of the shoe in or out. You want to back it off just enough so the brake drum slides on with a slight drag, when turning. Good luck.
U have 2 also make sure the EMERGENCY brake is OFF & the EMERGENCYbrake cable are free & not holding pressure on the shoesafter U back the Star adjuster all the way OFF.
Also remember to move the metal plate that is resting against the star wheel,with one hand pull the plate away and with the other hand move the wheel until the shoes are as close as u can get to move than try to put on the drums. ! TUMBLEWEED.
That depends on the relative velocities of the objects involved.meteors and spacecraft entering earth's atmosphere friction heat to white incandescence at over 2000 kelvin.aircraft brake rotors and shoes friction heat to over 1500 kelvin in some cases.semi truck brake drums and shoes friction heat to over 600 kelvin in some cases.etc.
There is not a simple way to explain it but in short here is some info.Your parking brake should click 7-12 for 87 models and if it does not u can adjust it where the cable ties the left and right cable underneath the truck near the transmission on the driver side.It has a Y type assembly and make sure the parking brake is off and it has a adjusting jam nut.U simply loosen the nut b4 the assembly and move the nut on the inside of the assembly in or out to tighten/loosen it.I would highly recommend buying a haynes or chiltons manual that has pics to show this and if ur rear brakes are old I would also pull the drums off to see that ur shoes are not worn out/and drums are not scared with scratches or grooves into the metal.If ur brake shoes are low on meaning less surface I would recommend to replace them and get ur drums machined at a machine shop or replace them if they show alot of wear.Worn shoes affects the parking brake because the over time it will create slack in the cables bc with less brake shoe suface the cable stretches farther and make it seem weak or u pull it further to set the brake.Check ur rear brake shoes/drums first if you have alot of miles on them,bc if they do adjusting the cables may just be a waste of time as a result.I just in nov 08 replaced my rear drums and shoes and believe me it makes all the difference.The drums were the originals and I have had the trk since new in march of 87.Hope this book gives you some insight.
yo have to grease your 6 high spots on the edge of the backing plate, and then you need to bring your shoes in so you can clear the drum over them, to re adjust your shoes there is a star adjuster at the bottm of both shoes, make sure that you have your shoes just barely drag the drum because if you have to much clearence you will have a soft brake pedal
If the rotors have over heated you will get brake chatter. The pedal will shake when you apply the brakes. Usually the drums are a little tougher. The new rotors are very thin.
Be sure the e-brake cables are free and the e-brake cable adjustment is backed off.
just your emergency brakes won't work, but more importantly the levers inside the rear brake drums slack off scrubbing on the inside of the drums and over a period of time they will cut right thru the drums, .So get it fixed.
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You can not use rubber fuel lines to replace the current brake lines due to the high operating pressure. You will need to replace them with brake lines, the rubber brake lines has a different construction to hold the pressure and not getting eaten away by the brake fluid, brake lines can hold over 2000psi when the pedal is heavily applied
WEll! let's see. If the brake shoes are worn, you will have to replace them. At the same time, you should have the drums checked and, if necessary, turned by a machine shop. They usually charge around $10 each. The job is fairly straightforward, but you will need a Chilton or Haynes manual to do it. Follow their directions closely. You will want to pick up a couple of tools for the job, like a brake spring tool, and the tool to replace the washers over the little coil springs. Adjust the brakes according to the book. OR, take it to a brake shop and give 'em the $60 to do the job.
How Do I Replacing My Rear Brake Shoes and Drums? http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/rear_brake_shoes.htmWARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation. About half of all car manufacturers still use drum style rear brakes. Drum brakes are not as efficient as disc brake systems but, drum brakesare easily produced and can be used on the rear of a vehicle since only about 30% of the braking is performed by the rear brakes. Rear brake shoes are more difficult to service when worn and may require special tools to service. Rear brake shoes performance is more effected by water and rain; the braking ability is greatly compromised. Full braking ability will not return until fully dry. READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING! Step 1 - Identify rear brake shoes and wheel cylinder components. Remove brake drumto inspect brake shoes for wear. If the brake material is less than 1/8 inch, they need to be replaced in most cases. Check the wheel cylinder for leaks. Remove the dust boot from the side of the wheel cylinder and check for brake fluid leaks. If brake fluid is present the wheel cylinder needs replacing. Also check brake shoe hardware, return and mounting springs, and replace if damaged or broken. Step 2 - Removing the brake shoes and wheel cylinder. Use the brake spring tool to remove the return spring to each of the brake shoes. Step 3 - Removing brake shoe mounting springs. Hold the rear of the retainer pin. Insert brake shoe removal tool over retainer clip, press down and twist counter clockwise. Remove spring and retainer. Inspect and replace as needed. Then remove the rear brake shoes and remaining hardware. Match the old brake shoes to the new brake shoes. Both sets should match up exactly. Then transfer hardware to new brake shoes. Step 4 - Removing Wheel Cylinder After the rear brake shoe and hardware pieces have been removed, install line wrench onto brake line at the wheel cylinder and loosen the mounting fitting, then remove it. Note: brake fluid will leak from line when loosened. Remove wheel cylinder mounting bolts and replace wheel cylinder with new unit. Re-attach and tighten brake lines and retighten wheel cylinder mounting bolts. Then clean and service the brake shoe backing plate. Step 5 - Reassemble With New Brake Parts Reassemble with new brake parts and make sure all the brake hardware is mounted correctly. Note: when changing rear brake shoes, only disassemble one side at a time so you always have a reference copy on the side that is still together. Step 6 - Adjusting Brake Shoes After brake shoes have been installed they need to be adjusted. Normally they are self adjusting but the first time after installation, a primary adjustment must be made. After installing the brake drumand spinning it on the bearing hub, adjust the brake shoes to lightly contact the brake drum and recheck regularly. After the brake shoes are adjusted, bleed the brake system until free from air and leaks. Test brake system before driving. CAUTION: DO NOT DRIVE OR MOVE VEHICLE UNTIL NORMAL BRAKE PEDAL OPERATION IS PRESENT! Common Problems: * Brake shoes wear out and grind to metal due to lack of maintenance. * Low brake pedal due to improper adjustment. * Looses partial braking ability when wet.
Yes, your brake rotor can be really expensive to replace. However, I do not think it will cost that much.
To be candid, I really don't know. However, I recently changed the (8") rear brake shoes on my 2000 Mystique. The brakes are held in adjustment by a grooved cam (not a star-wheel). One of the most difficult parts was removing the drum from the spindle. I used the required 32mm socket, then applied "gentle persuasion" to pass the drum-ridge over the brake shoes. I'm sure there is a preferred method, however, I was at the point of desperation motivated by the ever popular impending time constraint. I am assuming your brakes are either out of adjustment, indicating either a brake-spring failure or the cam grooves have filled with brake-dust; or you have decided to change the shoes, and can't get the drums off with the shoes in the current adjustment. SUGGESTION: Take photos of the spring orientations prior to disassembly of the shoes. Good luck.
You need to adjust the parking brake shoes by taking the rubber plug off the back and adjusting them like regular brake shoes. On my 1997 Mercury Mountaineer I adjusted the brake shoes, but it didn't work. The parking brake wouldn't hold, so I replaced the drums, and shoes and it still didn't hold. Next I replaced all the brake cables, since there didn't seem to be a cable adjustment. The problem ended up being the parking brake assembly. The coil spring inside somehow came loose and uncoiled about one revolution. This spring "Is the parking brake cable adjustment", it provides pre-tension to the brake cable, so when you push on the parking brake pedal it starts applying the parking brake after about 2-3 clicks. I when to "Pick a Part" junkyard and bought one for about $13.00 and that fixed the problem. FYI: Just because you feel tension and hear clicking when pushing the parking brake down and the pedal comes back up when released, does not mean the pedal assembly is working. Check the cable tension when release and check the end of the coil spring to see if it is hooked over a metal tab (my broken unit, spring was up against the end of the brake cable and wasn't providing pre-tension) If you replace the rear brake shoes and the parking brake doesn't hold, don't just also replace all the brake cables like I did, because it still didn't work. If you can push the brake pedal all-the-way to the floor and it still won't hold, do the following: - Release the parking brake and look under the car on the drivers side and inspect the parking brake cable and cable tension. - The cable should not be loose when released, and the cable should be centered in the holes in the frame. - If the cable is loose when released, the problem is the "Brake Pedal Assembly" under the dash on left side.
i had a similar prob but it was related to the brake booster. it is a cylendrical device that creates brake pressure and when deffective causes the brakes to be engadged and causes brake wear and slow gas mileage and warpping of brake drums and excessive wear of brake pads..... often over-looked.
there should be a small cylinder with what looks like a gear on it. turn it and your shoes will compress. do it enough so you can slide the hub on, it should be able to spin freely. make sure your emergency brake is off!
JAK UP TRUK/USE JAK STANDS, REMOVE ONE WHEEL AND THEN TAKE DRUM OFF WITH A RUBBER MALLET, THEN MEASURE THE BACK SIDE OF THE DRUM, THE PART THAT WAS OVER THE BRAKE SHOES
the emergency brakes are drum type brakes inside the rear brake disk on each wheel.if you know how o adjust drum brakes it is the same adjustment for emergency brake on this vehicle. on the back of the drum there is a small rubber cap. remove this cap and with a flat screwdriver or adjuster tool, you turn the the serated wheel inside the brake drum to adjust the brake shoes out till nearly touching the brake drum it is best to do this with the rear wheels jacked up off the ground, so you can spin the wheel while adjusting. by spinning wheel you will feel when brake shoe is starting to slow wheel and you will then know to stop adjusting. do this on both wheels if you over adjust you will burn brakes out and have to replace brake shoes. this is a pain as you have to remove the disk brake caliper and rotoar to get at the emergency brake
You will need special tools for this task, a wheel cylinder clamp and a brake spring removal tool along with your regular tool kit. Also a brake adjusting tool and large locking pliers would be helpful as well. If you're replacing brake shoes or linings, always replace in pairs, left and right, or all fours. Never replace just one, or on one side cause you'll end up making a very sharp turn towards the stronger brake side every time you hit the brakes and perhaps even flipping over during such a braking induced turn. Lift Jeep Turn Adjustor screw's wheel and retract brake shoes Remove wheels and brake drums Use wheel cylinder clamps to retain wheels cylinder pistons in place Remove return springs with removal tool. Take off, in the following order: adjuster cable, cable guide, adjustor lever, adjuster springs, Hold-Down washers and springs and then the brake shoes. I suggest you get a aftermarket repair manual as it has a few diagrams that will make complex text instructions easy to understand. (posted by "MelancholyMutt")
good question. you do not adjust cable on emergency brake in 2004 f250. the emergency brakes are drum type brakes inside the rear brake disk on each wheel.if you know how o adjust drum brakes it is the same adjustment for emergency brake on this vehicle. on the back of the drum there is a small rubber cap. remove this cap and with a flat screwdriver or adjuster tool, you turn the the serated wheel inside the brake drum to adjust the brake shoes out till nearly touching the brake drum it is best to do this with the rear wheels jacked up off the ground, so you can spin the wheel while adjusting. by spinning wheel you will feel when brake shoe is starting to slow wheel and you will then know to stop adjusting. do this on both wheels if you over adjust you will burn brakes out and have to replace brake shoes. this is a pain as you have to remove the disk brake caliper and rotoar to get at the emergency brake
its pretty simple. jack the rear end up, remove the back wheels, knock the drums off [they usually come off with a little or a lot of pursuading]then once you have both drums off you will see little round plates with spearheads through them. the rounds pieces are slotted to fit over the spearheads when you turn them to line up.once you have those out pop the springs located in various places on the shoes and the shoes should come off in your hands. DO NOT DO THE SECOND SIDE UNTIL YOU HAVE DONE THE FIRST SIDE AS THE SECOND SIDE SIDE WILL BE YOUR REFERRENCE TO REPLACE ALL YOUR BRAKE PARTS FOR THE FIRST SIDE!!!!OLD SCOOL RULES. replace drums adjust the brakes and put your tires back on.most drum brakes are self adjusting these days so dont sweat the adjust brakes part too much. this pretty much applies to most drum[rear] brakes. remember, its the K.I.S.S. rules, always. [after old scool]
Jump over to Smokinvette.com and get in touch with "Talon90" he will give you a great diagram on how to do that! Good luck!
Answerif discs/rotors, over compensating on rear brakes ( basically means too much braking power is going to the back ) Baised too much to the rear.if drums, warped drums, sticking shoes.oil on brakes would do that
Brake pads probably cost over, $80.00 each more, or less. Yes you are able to replace them yourself if you have the right skill to do so, and to make sure you do it right.
If they are scored or uneven. It's only happened to me once in over 40 years of cars. If you check and change pads regularly, it never happens.