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The easiest way is probably to remove the Y-pipe. Soak all the bolts with WD-40 (best done the night before) and remove them. The Y-pipe and cat should drop right out. Doing this, will give you access to all of the plugs from under the car, except for plug #2. For that one, it's easiest to remove the alternator to get at it from the top. If you're into doing things the hard way (that is, not removing the Y-pipe), make sure you have a lot of time on your hands and a lot of band-aids for your hands and arms.

Before you do anything, realize that the plugs are supposed to be good for up to 100,000 miles, but only time will tell. Here's the best method (without Y-pipe removal) found so far: PLUG ACCESS TOOLS REQUIRED COMMENTS 1 Top Socket w/ Swivel Easy 3 Top Socket w/ Swivel Easy 5 Bot Socket w/ Swivel Slightly tricky 7 Bot Socket w/ Swivel Watch out for O2 sensor 2 Top Socket w/ Open End AC & Exhaust AIR Tubes make it NASTY 4 Top Socket w/ Swivel Completely blind on this one 6 Bot Socket w/ Swivel Difficult to reach, but doable 8 Bot Socket w/ Swivel Skinny arms are a MUST NOTES: 1. Be sure to replace the heat shield covers on plugs 6, 7, and 8. 2. If you're changing the wires, be sure to route the #7 wire through the the factory heat shield that runs between the exhaust manifold and the block. If it makes contact with the manifold, it's going to burn right through. 3. Use anti-seize compound on new plugs. The factory didn't which made removal that much more difficult. 4. You may want to do the easiest plugs first, (saving #2 for last) to give yourself a sense of accomplishment and to boost your self-confidence. 5. You should never change plugs on an aluminum block when it is hot.

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โˆ™ 2015-07-15 20:54:14
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Q: How do you get to the spark plugs on a 1996 Chevrolet Camaro to change them?
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