How do you get to wormwood on dragon quest ix?

Warning: Spoilers follow.

When I first got there it was with the ship. I almost immediately got the feeling I shoudn't be there because no one wanted to talk to me (except the priest at the church, thank goodness). After failing to find anything else of importance (except the nearby monster population) I left.

You will find yourself there as part of the storyline, after the cutscene in which Aquila takes the fyggs and tries to battle you. (The people there will be marginally more hospitable at that point.) There is an interesting glitch with this cutscene, because Aquila did more than 200 points of damage with his attack and then it cut off. The next cutscene indicated that the story assumes the hit to have been a one-hit kill but it wasn't. (Don't worry, you will be revived after the cutscene.)