It shouldn't be too hard. First you'll need to locate it on the tranny and remove the locks nuts holding it in place and any other connectors holding it to the tranny. Then just pull it through the firewall to the pedal and look and see how it's attached. Once you undo it, just install the new one in reverse order. You'll have to play around with the adjusting nuts to get it set where you want it.
First, the clutch cable is self adjusting, don't pull on the clutch cable housing to remove it from the dash panel, the self adjuster may be damaged. Remove the power distribution center and the transaxle cover. Pull back on the clutch cable housing and disconnect the cable. Pull the cable from the slot in the transaxle and disconnect the cable from the release lever. Push in the clutch cable and remove the cable from the pedal. Pull the cable from the dash using a slight twisting motion. Installation is the reverse proceedure. You may want to get a manual for all the 8x10 glossy photos and stuff.
No, the 1990 civic transmission is a cable operated clutch and the 1995 civic is a hydraulic operated clutch. So unless you rig up a hydraulic clutch system(Master cylinder, pedal, slave cylinder, lines...) it will not work. But a company called "Hasport" makes a bracket that has a cable attachment that operates the clutch engagement and disengagement.
To adjust the clutch on a 1995 Yamaha Virago XV250 loosen the clutch cable at the clutch level. Follow to the left side of the engine case remove the access cover, loosen the locknut. Turn the adjusting screw clockwise until it touches the clutch rod. Tighten the locknut. There should be 203 mm free play.
That year has a cable clutch linkage from your clutch pedal to the transmission, and it tends to wear and STRETCH, causing the clutch to not be fully disengaged even though your clutch pedal is pushed all the way down to the floor. It is a design flaw as there is no cable-length-adjustment. SAAB came out with a TA that instructs mechanics to use TWO (instead of just one) spacer washers when replacing this cable, to help forestall how soon this happens. There is an aftermarket replacement cable that has an adjustment built in. I postponed replacing my cable for about 6 months by shimming where the cable attaches to the clutch arm: I cut a slot in a fender washer so I could slip it over the cable without taking the cable out. I bent the washer to match the curve of the clutch arm. I then inserted the washer between the clutch arm and the ball at the end of the cable, effectively shortening the cable by the thickness of the washer...but eventually you will need to replace the cable. If you use this fix and later feel it grinding the breaking of the cable is IMMINENT!
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