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Fuse info...For 1999-2003, fuse #3 protects the outside mirrors.

I have a 2000 Windstar SE, and just had to remove the door panel to replace the lock actuator. Here are the steps I took:

Windstar: Removing Inner Door Panel

- Remove two screws from bottom of door. - Carefully pop triangular black fascia from upper front corner (pry from top with flat head screwdriver), then remove screw behind it. - Pop trim piece from inner door handle (pry from front) - Pop power lock/window panel loose (pry around), then unplug switches. - Remove two screws very deeply inset on armrest. - Gently lift upward and outward on door inner. Once you have a gap, twist and release the light socket in the inner door panel.

- If removing lock assembly, unscrew the three nuts holding the outer door handle, then remove it from the outside. - Disconnect the two electrical connectors from the lock assembly if removing.

I do not know what year you have but I have a 1999 WS and you have to replace the whole assembly (framework and motor, motor is not sold seperatly). You will need to remove the door panel and all mounting bolts for the framework. The whole thing will then slide out (not easily) through the cut outs on the door. Replace with the new unit just like the old one was removed. This will take two people. One person will need to hold the window while the other is working with the assembly. I replaced mine with much cussing and swearing in about 2 hours. It is not a hard job just aggravating.

Glass only replacementBe sure to check out the "Related Questions" regarding replacing just the glass in a mirror. Good option in certain situations. Rough PricingEbay show power / heated mirrors, brand new starting at $48 and up. (April 09)

Note: I changed the mirror on the passenger door, but most of these instructions apply to either side.

Tools you will need: Large flathead screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, socket wrench with 7/16-inch socket.

The mirror is held on by three nuts on the inside of the door. Getting to two of them is quite easy -- it's the third one that requires taking off the interior door panel, as mentioned below. If you are moderately handy with tools, you can do it yourself. Otherwise, take it to a mechanic. Also, it helps to have a second person available.

1. Roll down the window and open the van door in question. Pop off the black plastic cover at the top and front of the door panel by prying gently on the top of the cover with a large flathead screwdriver. The cover is held in place by three metal tension clips. This uncovers one of the mirror nuts.

2. Just forward of the door panel, you will find a round rubber plug. Pull this out of its hole to reveal nut #2.

3. Gently pry off the black plastic cover that surrounds the interior door handle. It is held in place by three metal tension clips. As it comes loose, slip it off over the door handle. (This is the one step where the driver and passenger doors are different. On the driver's door, the electric mirror control is mounted in this black plastic cover. You will probably need to disconnect a small wire harness from the back of this control in order to completely remove the cover, or just leave it dangling by the wires.)

4. Gently pry up the front end of the lighter-colored plastic piece to which the electric window and lock switches are mounted. Once the front is loose, pull the piece forward to fully loosen it. It can be left sitting loosely with the wires still attached.

5. You have now uncovered a Philips-head screw just where the switch carrier meets the armrest in the door panel. This screw attaches the door panel to the door. Remove it.

6. There are two Philips-head screws at the very bottom of the door panel. Remove them.

7. The door panel is now free and is being held in place because it is hooked over the window opening. Carefully lift up the panel, clearing the lock post, and pull the panel away from the door. You do not need to remove it fully but can find a way to rest it on the door.

8. You have now uncovered the third and final mirror nut -- it may be hidden behind another rubber plug like you removed in step 2.

9. About 8 inches below this third nut, you will find the connection for the mirror wire harness. Disconnect the wire harness and push the loose end into the door.

10. Remove the three mirror nuts with a socket wrench and 7/16-inch socket. The mirror will probably need to be pried away from the door because the foam sealant material has it stuck on. Once the mirror comes fully free, carefully pull the wire harness out of the door.

11. Follow these steps in reverse (more or less) to install the new mirror and replace the panel and other trim pieces (don't forget the rubber plug that ends up under the door panel!).

you have to pull off the door panel first. the are plastic pieces that need to be pried off and screws that are hidden. i would suggest taking it to a shop and let them do it. they shouldn't charge you more than $50 (independent shop) $100 (dealership). the pieces that can and will break are much more expensive.

first you will need to remove the door panel. Then you see behind the mirror on the door 3 nuts to remove and if electric you will need to unplug the jack first.

Not sure if it will be the same for the 2000 Windstar. I changed the whole mirror assembly on my 98 passanger side. There are 3 nuts holding the assembly on the door. You must first remove the inside door panel by removing the cover around the door opener handle. There is a screw behind it once that is removed you can remove the panel by lifting up on the panel. you can then unplug the power window and lock buttons if you like( it does make it easier). then you have access to the nuts holding the mirror assembly one once you remove the little black rubber plugs. Unplug the power mirror cable and then reinstall the new one in the opposite order as the removal. .

New HeadlineOn my 2000 Windstar, there were 4 hex headed screws that I needed to remove with a 9/32" nut driver. Two were in the bottom of the door handle. One was near the bottom rear corner of the door and the other was under a black plastic trapezoid shaped piece (about 3" x 5") near the top front of the door (on the inside of the car, opposite the mirror). I carefully pried the black plastic piece off as it just snaps in place.

The door panel could then be removed by lifting up and towards the back of the car. The two power connectors near the middle of the panel unplug by depressing a tab on them and the courtesy light near the bottom rear of the door panel can be removed by twisting counter clockwise.

There are 3 nuts holding on the mirror assembly, two of which are under black plastic/rubber hole-filler grommets. Be careful not to drop the nuts down in the door panel! I used an 11mm socket with a magnet to keep the nuts from dropping.

The power connector for the mirror motor/heater is under some white foam sound proofing. I peeled back a portion of it to expose the power connector. After unplugging the connector, I tied a piece of sturdy string to the old power connector before removing the mirror so that the string "fished" through the door panel as I removed the mirror and cord. I then untied the string from the old connector and tied it onto the new mirror's connector and pulled the cord back through the door panel. I think it would be very difficult otherwise to get the connector back through the door panel.

The remainder of the installation was just a reverse of the removal.

MirrorGlassPlus.com offers replacement mirror glass which is an exact match to your existing factory mirror. That means it will have the same size, shape, bend and features as your existing factory mirror. Installation is always quick and easy, typically taking about 30 minutes. * Smooth seamed edges for safe handling * First-surface chrome reduces glare * Part# lasered on every mirror * Protective safety-orange packaging * Installation guide printed right on the box * Includes Redi Stick® adhesive patches

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