you do not need the extra 7 pin if your not running electri brakes
You cant fit 6x9. 6.5's work but you have to buy the extra harness and a good eye to line it up right.
I have read that you need a "powered" wiring harness because the Elantra routes the tail lights through a computer that cannot handle the extra amperage necessary to drive a trailer's lights. A powered harness connects directly to the battery for power and taps the tail-light wires to control relays.
Yes it is different. I have a 2004 FLHTPI. The wiring harness for the FLHTPI is set up for the extra lights and accessory plugs for the additional equipment/electronics that the police bike is outfitted with. I tried to install the air temp and oil pressure gage in the dash and could not match the schematics on the installation instructions to the wiring harness. I had to bring it in to have the gages hooked up. I plan to add a stereo and will run into the same issue with the wiring harness. I haven't found any good resources on the internet regarding solutions yet.
THE STEREO IS CONNECTED TO THE DASH LIGHTS, MOST LIKELY YOU JUST SNAPPED THE WIRES OFF AND TWISTED THEM RIGHT? AND YOU HAD SOME EXTRA WIRES RIGHT? THOSE EXTRA WIRES WERE FOR SOMETHING...JUST GET THE ADAPTER AND CONNECT YOUR OLD STEREO HARNESS BACK... TRUST ME OK I FOUND THE SOLUTION YOU NEED TO GROUND A WIRE THAT WAS EXTRA IT IS BLACK AND YELLOW...-aojedam-
Not all the lights are on the same circuit. Check your fuses first to see if one is blown. The owner's manual will tell you what circuit the headlights are on and where the fuses are located. Usually it is under the dash, drivers side far right. You can probably read the circuit name on the fuse box if your eyes are betteer than mine. If the fuse is blown, replace it with one of the same amperage rating. The manufacturer might have put a couple extra fuses in the box. If the outage is caused by a short. The fuse will blow again when you turn on the lights. If this happens or the fuse is good, you have a problem elsewhere like in a wire condection of the wire itself. Daytime driving lights and headlights are also controled by a switch on the hand brake. If your hand brake is on one or two notches your headlights will be out. Let the hand brake off and the headlights come on.
If you already got the halo assembly if not you need to go and get new halo headlights eBay i got mine for celica free shipping, then when you get them just connect up all the wires and then there will be one extra wire that you will have to ground to make halos work. All done nice cool looking headlights good job :)
If you want to disable the "auto" headlight function and I just did this today and worked so good and ideal. Its so easy. Just replace your low beam hot wire (mine wire was purple) with one that was spliced off of your fog light (that wire was purple too, I believe). Ok, so once you do that, the only way to turn on your headlights is when your fog lights are on. So if your fog lights are off then your headlights are too. Before I did this config today, I would have my fog lights on all the time with my head lights anyway. But yeah, that's the catch if you want it easy. Another thing I did to was buy a set of 2 low/high beam camaro harnesses (male and female ends) from eBay. It was only $20. I used the harnesses for what I spliced (from the fog light) to be connected to the extra "male end" harness connector while leaving the original "male end" harness connector next to it so I could easily go back to stock config without re-splicing anything.
This is how I did it.. I connected the black and white halo wires the the extra bulb housing with the brown and black wires. Then, my high beam lights were wired to my fog lights because the standard big plug doesn't work with the high beams and low beams. Again, that is how I wired it. Don't forget, you basically have to cut out most of the plastic housing so the head light will even fit.
Usually lights not working are a sign of a bad ground wire in your car if the fuses are ok. Check the ground from the battery to the block. Some people add an extra ground from the trans to the frame to help solve intermittent electrical problems.
Sounds like your alternator is going bad. The extra juiced used when breaking robs power from the other lights. Pulsing when idling sounds like the voltage regulator which is built into the alternator. Have it replaced.
Your best bet would be to call or go to your local auto parts store and tell them you need a "plug in" trailer wiring harness for your vehicle....these are very nice items and easy to install, as you just "plug" them into your exsisting vehicle's wiring harness. No need to "search out" for which wire goes where and no splicing of the wires either. They are more expensive than a "standard" wiring plug, but the "extra" cost is more than worth the "time" and headaches you will save!
just repaired same problem on 97 gmc van...checked all wires for bad grounds..thoughly cleaned sockets....i had a hair pulling intermitent situation... answer was to replace short rear harnesses ,,,evidently the interior ofplastic lite sockets degraded... arcing from the extra load of the other lites go on. ps.... chevy wanted $180 per harness...got them online for $23...30 min installation, exact match connectors trust me just do it!
An extra small or small might work but try extra small if you can find one
They use so little extra fuel as you would not be able to measure it. But technically the answer is yes. The lights burn electricity, the car burns gas to make electricity. But the extra is tiny tiny amounts.
The only factory approved way is to use a kit that adds relays so that there is no extra current pulled through the tail lights. I suggest you get a kit from a Jeep dealer. Keep in mind however, in order to activate the "factory" harness and the Jeep relays you will need to have the dealer upgrade the computer program to turn on the relay. I was quoted .5 hours labor to turn it on.
LED lights (extra bright) and High Def.
Could be fog lamps.
If the car has hid (fancy new blue) lights the transformer could cause it, a head light relay too close to something , the extra load of the headlights on the charging system making the alternator work a bit harder so more audible. If there is a connection to the headlights to dim the stereo face at night combined with poor connections will also do it. Tighten/clean all your stereo connections especially the earth, add an extra one to test. Clean your battery and your alternator connections and fit a good noise suppressor if problems persist. It could also mean your alternator is on its last legs, so check your charge voltage under load (lights on etc)
No it does not This is debated a lot. Because it is an extra load on the alternator, many agree it does use extra gas, approximately eight tenths of a gallon a year.
Assuming they have all gone including the rear ones, I suspect the switch on the dash would be my first choice. We change a lot of them. If you are running extra driving lights or high output aftermarket headlights they need to be relayed and not run directly through the switch as it can't handle the extra load. Classic Minis are pretty easy to diagnose with a simple test light and the wiring diagram from a shop manual as the wiring is basic. www.HeritageGarage.com
First you should make sure that the lights you purchased already have the harness that connects to the wiring that your stock lights were connected to(mine did so that's what i know how to work with). Second, if your lights are anything like mine, you should have 3 sets of wires on the bottom of the lamp housing( 3 sets of red and black wires). These wires go to the halogen halos around the actual lights of the headlight. I found it best to wire these wires to a toggle switch in the car that way your halos are not on all the time(which could cause them to burn out, they are mainly for show and to be all fancy and what not) and you can control when they are on. Third, your lamps should fit directly into place of your old lamps. There also should be wires to hook up the blinker light that is in your new setup. I have not take the time to wire these up yet. The bulb on the outside of the lamp is your regular light and the bulb in te middle is your brights. Nothing extra for this, just plug and go. Your neighborhood friendly focus freak.
instead of butchering the wires, spend the extra $10.00 and get the wiring harness you can pick them up any where they sell car audio and even walmart might have it to...
You will need to purchase and install an adapter and attach it the the USB connector located on the motherboard.