Get some on your fingers. If Red it's Transmission Fluid if you have an Automatic. If you have Manual Transmission it will smell different, then the Oil from your Dipstick. Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Sure could. Also the valve covers.
Sure. Get a second opinion or get someone who is good with cars to check it for you.
You will have to remove the oil pan and the rear main cap and then install a new seal.You also need to make sure the PCV valve is working / positive crank case venalation.Make sure when you get it apart that there is no groove cut into the crankshaft are it will not hold a seal.If the crankshaft main bearings are worn, Then it may still leak oil from the seal.GOOD LUCK.
If it is dripping out of the transmission bell housing, then yes it is probably the rear main seal.
burn or leak? do you know for a fact it is burning? do you smell it? is your exhaust blue? that new, more likely a leak, maybe front or rear seal (not sure what that engine has).
make sure the leak is not coming from above the starter, like from the valve cover gasket, if it isn`t then it probably is the rear crankshaft seal which would require the removal of the tranny to replace.
The first thing you should do is check and replace your positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve if it's plugged, and make sure your engine oil level is not over full. Both of these conditions can cause your rear seal to leak. Check these and correct them, then see if the leak continues. If not, then you're good to go. If it still leaks, see below.AnswerReplace rear main seal. Transmission must be removed.I have replaced the rear main seal on pre-1987 small block chevy's without removing the trans. Not sure if it would work on other engines. Pull the oil pan and the rear cap. You may need to loosen the other main caps to take the pressure off the seal. Use a piece of thin wire to push the upper-half seal far enough to one side to get ahold of it and pull it out. Push the new seal into position, replace the other half in the cap and reassemble.
I am not sure of how to instal a rear main seal on '89 dodge D100 with a v6.
if it's an external leak you spray it clean with brake cleaner or something similer and drive it for a few day's then you recheck it,if it's an internal leak you take it to a transmission mechanic and have them take it out and take it apart and see where it's leaking whether it be from the torque convertor seal,pump seal or a massive internal leak due to a bad valve body gasket or a bad apply piston seal among other things,the common external leaks are the pan gasket (bolts slacked off due to vibration of engine),rear output seal (located at the very back of the transmission,where the driveshaft slips in it),the transmission lines will rot out and leak and sometimes the coolers will develop a leak
Was just quoted $1600 on my 2001 Highlander Limited. I have over 200,000 miles on it, not sure the car is worth that much.
Start by determining for sure where it's coming from. You may possibly need to replace a rear seal, and that's going to involve dropping the transaxle, removing the old seal, and driving the new one in. If you're scratching your head wondering how to go about doing this, you're probably in over your head, and would be better advised to leave this to a professional.
NO it will not. That is BAD stuff to put in the engine oil. You need to check the PCV Valve and make sure it is working. If it is then you will need to replace the rear main seal.
If it is red fluid leaking, then you have a transmission leak. If it is oil then the rear main oil seal is leaking on the back of the engine. You need to look at the top back part of the engine to make sure the back of the intake is not leaking oil, check back corners of the valve covers for leaks too. Need to make sure the oil sending unit that is back beside the distributor is not leaking oil. Ruel these things out before you tackle the rear main oil seal.
Yes but make sure it is full of oil before you leave home. I have run cars for a long time with main seals leaking.
The rear outside axle seal on my 1968 Chevelle has on it's outside face, the number 3832418. I am not sure if GM uses this same number for their parts inventory, but the manufacturer of the seal does.
Save your money, only a new seal will repair a worn out seal. Be sure the crankcase ventilation system is working properly.
There is a new graphite rope seal that seems to work well. The original rope seals contained asbestos, and worked well, later asbestos free replacement rope seals did not. The neoprene seals can work well, and offer the advantage of lower drag and a few more horsepower, but are very "installation sensitive". Did you put a thin layer of silicon behind the seal all the way around it? Did you stagger the mating surface so it is not in line with the main cap mating surface? Did you apply a dab of sealent to the mating surfaces? Is the seal facing the right way? Has the block been line bored? Line boring reduces the depth of the channel the seal sits in, and can cause sealing problems. Are the two ends that butt together perfectly flat? Some of the cheaper seals are not. Any little error or imperfect mating surface when installing the Viton neoprene seal will result in a leak, the graphite rope seal is much more forgiving. The graphite rope seal is available from most any of the Pontiac specific engine builders, it is made by Best Gasket Company, and is not the same as the rope seal commonly available from auto part stores. Before you change the rear main seal, make sure that is where the leak is from. Some later Pontiac V8 oil pans had the "three prong" rear oil pan gasket, these are very failure prone, the earlier cork pan gasket (the best), or the "five prong" gasket (good) is far more durable. If the leak is from the pan and not the rear seal an application of "the right stuff" by Mr Gasket will seal nearly any gasket leak. The bad news, as I am sure you already know, to change the rear seal or pan gasket the engine will need to be removed again, or at least raised in the chassis.Another thing to check is that your engine builder installed the screw in oil plugs at the rear of the engine, of course if one of them is missing you will have no oil pressure and a MASSIVE oil leak (think Exxon Valdez). Good Luck.
If it is in a car, pull the motor. A truck, unbolt it, pull it out, clean it, and re install it. However, make sure that you leak is not from the back of the intake, or valve covers, or, the rear main seal, first.
I'm for sure that it is a 2 piece seal. You can call the parts house and tell them the year and engine size and they can tell you. Are you can look at the back of the engine and tell for yourself.
The rear main seal is located on the end of the crank shaft which is between the engine and the transmission, some are replaced in a different manner than others. Some you can drop the oil pan and slide them around the end of the crank shaft and others you have to separate the engine from the transmission, then remove the flywheel and then you can pry the old one out and insert the new one, be sure not to warp the new one as you put it in or all your work will be in vane as it will leak!
Make sure it is oil and not brake fluid.
SealEngine or axle? Well for the engine you will need to remove the transmission and flexplate ( auto ) or clutch plate for manual to get access to the seal, from there it should pull out and press in from the outside. Drill a hole and use a screwdriver to remove it and use a socket that is the same size as the outer metal ring of the seal to install it. to replace rear seal, u need to first drain engine oil. next u need to lift engine enough to be able to remove oil pan. then u need to loosen all the crankshaft cap bolts. loosen enough to be able to slide new seal between rear of crank and engine block. making sure to get it in the correct position. then retighten cap bolts to proper torque in the correct sequence. then install bottom half of rear seal to bottom side of cracnk shaft reintall oil pan with new gasket and to correct torque replace oil to proper amount .u should be good to go if you are not very mechanical, buy LUCAS engine oil additive and add to oil. if leak in seal is not a bad one, the additive will swell the old seals and stop the leak is also a lot easier than pulling bottom apart if you dont know what you are doing
It has a 1 piece rear main seal in it. To replace it you must pull the engine are transmission witch ever you think would be the most simple to do. The seal slides over the back of the crankshaft. Pop it out and drive new one in. Need to check the back of the intake manifold were it seals against the block and make sure that seal is not leaking. Are you sure that you installed the oil pan gasket correctly ? If you used sealacone on the rubber pan gasket that can also make it leak even with it being new. GOOD LUCK I hope I helped you. NEUTZ.
Assuming it's a V-8, either a small block or big block, how to fix it depends on whether it's a vacuum leak or an oil leak. A vacuum leak would be from the gaskets between the manifold and the head. Just scrape clean and install new gaskets. No goop, gasket seal or RTV Silicone, install it dry. The most likely leak would be an oil leak and would be from either the front or rear rubber gasket between then intake manifold and the top of the lifter galley of the engine block. (probably the rear, too!) These can be a real problem for someone who doesn't know the 'secret'. GM has replaced these seals with RTV Silicone in a successful attempt to stop the problem. It's possible the 95 is RTV Silicone only, can't remember. I'll give both options. If there is a rubber seal, DO NOT put any RTV Silicone, or anything else on them. Make sure the manifold and block are clean and free of oil. Then correctly tighten the manifold, in order and to correct torque. The pressure and the temp after the engine heats up will 'bond' the seal in place. Most anything you put on it will act as a lube and the seal will ooze out as you tighten the manifold. If the 95 has no seal and only uses RTV Silicone, make sure all surfaces are very clean and then use the High Temp Red RTV Silicone, at least, don't use the blue. Good luck