After you have located the clutch slave cylinder, have someone depress the clutch pedal. You should see the piston of the slave cylinder extend somewhat. If it does not, either the slave cylinder is bad, or the master cylinder, or, there is not enough brake fluid in the system for it to operate properly. Check the level in the master cylinder. If the slave cylinder is leaking profusely, it is probably bad.
Whenever you are having a problem with the clutch disengaging the engine from the transmission it is advisable to bleed the clutch slave cylinder. If the clutch can't be operated by bleeding the slave cylinder then the clutch master cylinder is gone and should be replaced.
Need to know how to assemble 95 Chevy clutch master cylinder?
no it is hydraulic.dont know what your problem is but check clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder operation,if ok may just be a bad clutch
they are numered on top of piston number one cylinder is the front hole also coneting rod bering caps are numbered wit a arrow that points forward
the slave clutch cylinder is located inside the housing of the clutch/transmission. Unless you really know what you are doing a trained tech probably should replace this part.
It's a self adjusting hydraulic clutch. If it needs adjustment, it's probably either a bad clutch or a faulty clutch master or slave cylinder.
Try to press the clutch twice or trice in order to disengage it. If that does not work try adjusting the clutch tension. If that do not work maybe the clutch needs to be replaced with a new clutch. Try elimination process until you could find the real problem anyway there is no harm in trying and the plus factor about it is that you get to know the ins and outs of your vehicle. If problem still exists when all of my suggestion didnt work, maybe its time to seek professional help. It maybe a bit costly than making it yourself but you can be assured they will fix the problem. Regards to my fellow suzuki owner, Erwin (firstname.lastname@example.org)
look at your clutch master cylinder and check fluid, if low ,check your slave cylinder for leaks ,its bolted on your transmission with 2 bolts ,its at where the boot is ,if leaking ,then replace ,if not then u will need anew clutch.
Edit by Acker_dackerly:In 1996, Suzuki started selling a larger version of the Sidekick called the Sidekick Sport. Besides a larger engine (1.8 I4 followed by a 2.0 I4), they were also equipped with a Hydraulic clutch. The hydraulic clutch fluid vessel is to the left of the brake master cylinder on the firewall. It is a translucent white container about the size of a large pill bottle. You can use brake fluid or clutch fluid to top it off.- AckThe material following this text (after the string of hypens) was NOT published by me and represents the writings of someone who merely "thinks" he knows everything.Observe the word "suicide" in his/her second sentence. This is a sure sign of someone who has assumed that the Tracker/Sidekick are dangerous vehicles. The irony to this is the fact that it was the Suzuki Samurai (not the next-gen Sidekick/Tracker!) that Consumers Union claimed was an unsafe vehicle despite their own original testing and the observations of numerous vehicle safety agencies to the otherwise.If you don't "KNOW" something about a topic, it is best to keep one's piehole shut. This would - at least microsopically - add to the overall reliability of the information found on the Internet...------------------------------As I recall, the sidekick/suicide/tracker uses a cable clutch linkage. Clutch fluid is only used with a hydraulic clutch.If you have a cable clutch, and if you have low clutch pedal or excessive clutch pedal freeplay (more than 1/2 inch is excessive less than 1/4 inch is insufficient) check for adjustment at clutch fork lever end of clutch cable near righthand side front of transmission.On these vehicles, a locknut isn't used so it is common for an adjustment nut to back off (loosen) on the cable end. If loose, tighten until freeplay is normal and then consider using a locknut (get a nut from the hardware store for under $1) or use a drop of thread locking compound (under $2.50 at most auto parts stores) to keep the adjusting nut in place.Also consider the possibility of an excessively worn input shaft bearing or worn clutch fork or worn throwout (release) bearing or pivot.
Most likely it is the slave cylinder on the transmission. you need to check clutch cylander for leaks only place it can leak is the clutch cylander or the fluid line
I don't know what you mean by clutch grease, but the clutch master cylinder uses dot 3 brake fluid as a hydraulic.
clamp the line to the slave cylinder and mash the clutch pedal. if the pedal gets hard to push,the slave is bad. if the clutch pedal goes down slowly with moderate pressure,the master cyl is bad clamp the line going to the slave cylinder. meant to say that in the previous answer
If you clutch and it either goes all the way in with no pressure there is a leak in your slave cylinder or the higher you have to clutch means your clutch is sliping and has to be replaced. If your doing a lot of power shifting i would suggest you get a racing clutch instead.
They don't have clutch cables. It is a hydraulic clutch with a master cylinder and a slave cylinder. If the clutch won't work fill the brake master cylinder with fluid. The clutch uses the same fluid as the brake and they share the same resrvoir of fluid. Follow the line from the clutch master cylinder across the transmission to the slave cylinder of the clutch. The slave cylinder is on the front middle of the transmission/engine. Take the cover off the bleeder valve and place a clear plastic hose over the nipple into a container of brake fluid. Have someone pump the clutch several times and then hold it to the floor. This is the time for you to open the bleeder valve. Air will escape into the container of fluid. Once the bubbles have stopped close the bleeder valve and have your assistant pump the clutch again. Keep doing this procedure until there are no more bubbles. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid while you are doing this. If it goes down to far it will get air into your brakes and your clutch.
No a sidekick does NOT have a camera! We don't know why.....
Can mean a few things. Low hydraulic fluid( brake fluid) in clutch master cylinder, worn clutch disc, needs bleed, slave cylinder slowly losing seal, seals in master cylinder, linkage problem. It could go forever but it is probably just the clutch disk material. To sum it up it means take it to the shop because if you don't know what it could be you most likely don't know how to fix it and it will only get worse to the point where it will not move
Clutch slave cylinder is leaking fluid or the connector rod or cable from the clutch pedal is disconnected or broken. Depends on the make and model of the vehicle to know the exact setup of your clutch.
When you let the clutch out all the way, if it continues to slip, it's worn out. A slipping clutch indicates that the clutch wear surface has gone. Plan on replacing the clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing and have the flywheel resurfaced. While it's apart, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders as well. If the clutch will not release when you press the pedal, it could be a warped clutch disk or pressure plate or a faulty hydraulic clutch system (master cylinder/slave cylinder).
you probobly don't want to know... you have to remove the front differential! or you can pull the whole engine...both are equally daunting tasks.
It is important to bleed a clutch master and slave cylinder to make sure all of the air is out of the lines. For a 1989 Chevy you would need to know model you had, and then find the repair manual for that specific vehicle.
On mine, it started leaking fluid onto the carpet behind the pedals. It's are real fix to replace the entire clutch master cylinder. There are also rebuild kits that can save you some $$.
First we have to know Automatic or manual. A/T is easy: add the fluid in the same place as the dipstick. M/T you have to get under the car...
The clutch slave cylinder should be mounted basically where the clutch is on the drivers side under the car. When you order the new part you'll know what it looks like. it's kind of tough to get to, at least in my experience with an 83' BMW 320i
There is nothing you can learn about the clutch by just looking under the hood. The clutch is inside the bell housing--you can't see inside the bell housing by just opening the hood. You would have to separate the transmission from the motor to see inside the bell housing, unless it has an inspection port!
i do not know