you need a flat screw driver & a 9/16 box wrench ,slide the over the screwdriver insert it into slot inside the locknut put the wrench on the loc nut holding the screwdriver firm and with a sharp slap on the wrench counter clockwise that should do it.to relock it do in reverse order after the adjustment is made.
Aside from bleeding the clutch cylinder there is a very slight adjustment on the clutch cylinder plunger that is attached to the clutch pedal. You can loosen the jam nut on the link and if it like mine you can twist the rod in or out by hand otherwise you will have to pull the pin and drop the link to turn it
yes, behind the clutch pedal there's a push rod with a 12mm nut on it, loosen the nut and twist the rod until you get the desired clutch engagment.
Takes a 1 1/2 socket and turns normally, left to loosen, right to tighten. The one in the clutch hub turns the opposite.
on right side of ingine on clutch cover there is a nut with screw through it loosen the nut and turn clockwise for more grip or counter for less
Often people refer to the entire clutch assembly as the clutch basket, when in fact that term applies to the clutch drum only. In any case, the entire clutch assembly must be removed to separate the drum from the hub. The clutch cannot be removed without also removing the chain and compensator. Assuming you've drained the chaincase oil and removed the outer cover, first remove the nut that holds the chain tensioner to the inner primary cover. Then loosen the locknut in the center of the clutch and loosen the clutch adjuster screw several turns to relieve tension. Next, remove the retaining ring (C-clip) that holds the release plate to the clutch hub and remove the plate with the adjuster screw still installed. This will expose the clutch nut. Note: The clutch nut on all years of Harleys has a left hand thread! Turn the nut CLOCKWISE to loosen it. It's by far easiest to remove the nut with an impact wrench, but that's up to you. Next, remove the compensator nut. It has right hand threads so you turn it counterclockwise to loosen it. Now simply remove the clutch, chain, tensioner and compensator as a unit, being careful not to damage the threads on the mainshaft. If you're separating the clutch hub from the drum you will need an arbor press and you will need to replace the clutch bearing.
To loosen it, counterclockwise.
Find the clutch fluid reservoir and take its cap off. Look under the dashboard to locate the stop-nut. Loosen the nut and set the pedal where you want it to be. Tighten the stop-nut and test the clutch pedal.
In the context of a jammed nut or a jammed screw, the opposite of jam would be loosen or release. In the context of a traffic jam, the opposite would be flowing or freely flowing traffic. :)
First remove the accessory drive belt- then loosen the large nut that attaches the fan clutch assembly to the water pump pulley being careful to loosen the nut clock wise not counter clockwise (It is a left handed thread)-now you can remove the fan to clutch bolts so you can separate the clutch assembly from the fan.
how to loosen a tight nut
It is a fan with a clutch. You have to have clutch wrentches to remove it. The nut that holds it to the water pump is an 1 1/2 nut. You have to hold the water pump pulley from turning and loosen the nut by turning it counter clockwise (as you are looking at it).
Remove the Clutch inspection cover from the primary cover (also called the derby cover). Loosen the clutch cable. The cable adjuster is located about half way down the clutch cable. Adjust so you have a lot of free play in the clutch lever. Go to the the clutch at the primary. You will see an Allen screw in the center of the clutch assembly, with a lock nut. Loosen the locknut several turns and turn in the Allen screw until resistance is felt. (just until you feel it start to tighten.) Then back off the Allen screw 1/2 to 1 turn counter clockwise. Tighten the lock nut to 72 to 120 in lbs of torque. Squeeze the clutch lever several times. Now go back to the clutch cable adjuster. Adjust it so you have about 1/8 inch of play between the clutch lever and the housing, when you squeeze the lever just enough to take up slack in the cable. Tighten the jam nut on the Cable adjuster and reinstall the Primary Cover. You should replace the cover gasket at this time. the torque for the cover is 84-108 inch lbs of torque.