How do you pull the steering wheel off of a 1991 Chevrolet caprice classic?

First, you a gear puller/steering wheel puller, which can be purchased for about ten dollars at your local auto parts store. Personally I wouldn't with the crows foot shaped on unless you also plan on working on some foreign model cars. The best choice is the one with the base with only two slots. Now, on the face of the steering wheel there is a cover on which you press to activate the horn, this must be removed. Depending on your car, it may snap off or there are two hex head screws on the back side of the wheel. There should be a wire for your horn connected to the back of the cover and leading to a small white plastic tube. You be very careful and press the white plastic tube in then it will turn and release. Next, you'll see a threaded shaft in the center with a big nut on it. If there is clip on the end of the shaft, remove it with a small flat head screwdriver. Now, the nut and clip are removed, take notice of the two threaded holes on either side of the shaft. Select the pair of bolts that thread into the holes smoothly. Place the wheel puller over the shaft so that the large center bolt of your puller rests on the threaded shaft. Put the two smaller bolts through the slots on your puller and thread them into the holes on either side of the shaft. Once tightened, start tightening the large bolt on your puller and it will slowly pull the steering wheel off. To put it back on just line of the spline and give it a good shove and as you tighten that big nut it will snug it down. Now if you plan on going deeper than that to, for example, work on the blinker assembly, or the ignition, or if you've got floppy steering wheel syndrome; you will need whats called a spring plate compressor. This can also be purchased at the auto parts store for about twelve dollars. Right at this point, there are some GM models that have some extra plate in the way (I think early 90's Caprice might have been one), there should two or more screws holding it on and you have to turn the steering wheel to the right position to remove it (If you're pulling the wheel to replace the ignition because you don't have keys to the one that's in there, you should be able to press in the steering wheel lock because it's right there and it's only spring loaded). Next is a pretty simple task with practice, but the first time it requires a lot of patience. It's pretty self explanatory on how to use the compressor. It threads onto the shaft and the two legs rest on the plate, as you tighten the nut it will push the plate down. Once the plate is pushed down enough, a small (very) clip will be exposed, (this is the aggravating part) remove it however you can, I usually use a small flat head and a Denny's steak knife with a wide rounded tip. I start from one end and slowly work my way around to the other (kind of like a bicycle inner tube). Once the clip is removed back off the nut and the plate will slide of with ease. It's amazing that this tiny little clip holds the plate on under all that spring tension. Anyways, if you need to remove the blinker assembly, there will be three Philips head screws on the actual unit, one connecting it to the arm, and a screw on the outside holding the hazards button in. Two of the screws you have to turn the blinker on to get to, one for left, and one for right. Once all of these are removed it slides out the front, but be careful not to pull to hard, there's an octopus of wires connected to it. Now, beyond this the ignition is visible, which is usually held in with a torx head screw/pin, but first fish out the little white plastic thing with the two pieces of copper sticking out (that's part of the buzzer assembly). Once the torx head screw/pin is removed the ignition slides out of the front. Also from this point, if you look really close you should be able to locate two holes which a quarter inch ratchet will fit in just barely. If you want to tighten up a floppy steering column you need to stick a #8 inverted torx on a quarter inch ratchet down in there. You only get to two of three bolts that need to be tightened but it is sufficient to solve the problem.