How do you recharge ac with freon?
Having problem with your A/C unit? This is how you fix it… It's very important to remember though that a licensed person is the only individual permitted to perform this kind of job, especially when dealing with AC gas. If you are here looking for helpful tips, it's obvious you are not licensed. You can very well go for it, and with the right attitude, although still costly, more likely you will succeed; but always keep in mind that you are on your own. First of all, let's see which one of the following situations best fit your case and let us concentrate on that one. Each problem got totally different solution. 1st Unit not blowing enough heat/cold: 2nd Unit blowing heat/cold but very low air pressure 3rd Unit not turning on at all 1st: Unit not blowing enough heat/cold: For the purpose of this documentary we will focus on this situation as it is the most common and complex. There is a good chance you are having problem with Freon gas, and therefore the presence of a leak. Troubleshooting… First, kill the power to the entire unit, including condenser. Go to the outside or roof, wherever your condenser is located. For now, just bring with you a set of socket wrenches, a set of screwdrivers and an electrical meter; make sure unit is dead (no power). Remove fan and cover on condenser. Give your unit a visual check. Look for oil residue on any solder joints or fittings. A spot of oil is a definite leak. Keep looking until you find it, and when you do, time to work! Let's find out how much gas the system got left, if any. (Outside of the electrical panel cover of the condenser you will find the type of Freon gas for your unit and amount required in Lbs & Ounces). By copper lines, outside of unit, look for two valves, one for the low side or cold (insulated) and one for the high side or hot (not insulated). Open valve (release) to see if there is any pressure inside the unit. No pressure means no gas and unit needs recharge, otherwise it just needs adding. But considering the presence of a leak, I recommend vacuuming the system for either case, but recycle any gas in the system into an empty gas-recycling tank. Remember, if you got a leak and pretend to fix it just by adding, think again. Whatever you do though, never let this gas out into the atmosphere. To recycle gas, just attach the empty tank into the outlet of the vacuum pump and follow instructions. To learn more about vacuum pump and gas recycling, see details ahead on how to vacuum the unit. The unit manual also has detailed instructions on how to use your vacuum pump to vacuum your AC unit.
- Pressurize the unit using nitrogen:
- I recommend attaching a pressure gage into the nitrogen tank to be able to control pressure. (If you can't find the right size fitting to connect the pressure gage outlet to the unit being served, get yourself a reducer close in size to the valve size, and from the auto part store buy a hose of that size. Using clamps to securely tighten the hose, connect the gas tank/pressure gage outlet to the low-pressure side valve of the unit.)
- Get you a spray bottle with dish soap and water. After pressurizing the unit, spray all over copper lines, fittings and coil condenser, but concentrate in areas where you see oil residue. With the pressure already inside the unit, keep spraying soap around the lines, if there is any leak, it will start bubbling through the pinhole, and that way you will locate the leak (increase pressure if needed, 100 psi should be plenty). After marking any pinhole you discover, remove valve stem to release pressure. Now get ready to do some soldering.
- Get you a soldering torch, an acetylene bottle and a 5% silver stick or 15% for better quality. Solder over any pinhole you found. Make sure you feel good about the job been done as you don't want go back and forth. After done soldering, pressurize the unit again and repeat this process until the unit is leak free.
- Using the Tire Valve Tool, put valve stem back, and now get ready for vacuuming.
- Vacuuming the unit:
- Get you a vacuum pump for A/C; RG5000 does a pretty good job. You are also going to need a pressure gage. Take the pressure gage and attach the blue hose to the low side (insulate), attach the red hose to the high side (not insulated), and attach the middle yellow hose to the intake side of your RG5000.
- Make sure you have all fittings snuggly tight and all valves open from both the pressure gage lines as well as intake and out of the vacuum pump. The black middle knob of vacuum pump unit must be on Recover position.
- Leave vacuum pump running for about 1 hour. At that point the system should have a negative pressure of -20 to -25 PSI and moisture out of the system. Turn off vacuum pump while closing valve from the yellow hose attached to it, then close valve from the red hose attached to the unit being served, leaving the blue side of the gage open. Remove the yellow hose from the vacuum pump unit. Gage should stay reading the negative pressure inside the system. Leave all as it is, but make sure you don't loose pressure. Now get ready to charge the unit.
- Charging unit:
- Assuming that 1st only the blue hose valve is open (low), and 2nd gage is still reading same negative pressure inside the unit, attach the yellow hose to the Freon gas tank. Be aware that we are only going to use the low-pressure side to charge the unit. Place your Freon tank on the weight scale. Open valve from yellow hose, and slowly open the tank valve as you begin to charge the system.
- Once the weight scale reaches the value you calculated previously, your unit has been fully charged. Now close your tank valve and remove pressure gage from both sides of the unit, then remove gage from the tank.
- Put fan and unit cover back. Turning on unit for testing.
- How to charge A/C Unit in cold weather: if outside temperature (OT) is cold and this procedure is not followed thru, more likely you won't be able to charge your unit as you will have a hard time to get the gas out of the tank. To charge in cold weather, do as follow:
- Leave gas tank inside hot water, like hot tub, for 30 minutes. Make sure valve is capped.
- Find a bucket big enough, to fit in the gas tank. With tank inside, fill it up with hot water. Make sure container is not too big or heavy, as you will need to weight the whole thing later on. Most weight scale for AC gas can only reach up to 60 Lbs.
- With someone's help, bring the whole thing to the unit being served.
- Start charging the system.
- Example on how to calculate gas weight before charging A/C unit.
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Answer: recharge your own AC . Here is a good write-up on the procedure, including risks of doing it yourself:\n. \nhttp://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/fluids_heat_ai…r_conditioning_general/ques023_0.html
Answer . \neither located on the firewall or one of the ac hoses
Answer . Probably somewhere between 2 and 4 12 oz cans of R134A....the new gas since about 1994 when R-12 was stopped being used in the US in new cars. Put a tempera…ture sensor in the center AC out let and start adding gas on the suction side of the compressor. Run the AC on Max or recirculate the air inside the car what ever your controls do. When the temp gets about 55 or less your set to go. Don't add any more gas. It is possible to over charge. If your compressor cycles every few seconds ...you are under charged. If the system runs but doesn't cool you my be overcharged... make sure your electric clutch is engaging the compressor.
If you use anything other than R134a it will not function properly.
Open the hood, and between the engine and the radiator at the lower point will be a metallic hose with a black dust cap on it, that's the low pressure valve. you should attach…ed the refrigerant in there.
Buy a kit at auto parts store--comes with instructions
\nFreon R12 refrigerant is so very expensive that I recommend you have the A/C converted to R134a. But first you must have the leak repaired. The shop will then remove any R12… left in the system, flush the system to remove the old oil, install fresh oil that is compatible with R134a, and charge the system. If there is any R12 left they may pay you to recover it.
You will need a set of a/c gauges, a vacuum pump, freon and oil........ Put the gauges on both the low and high side ports (blue goes to the low side and red goes to the high… side and yellow will go to the vacuum pump)..... Vacuum the system down for about 1 hour and then let it sit for 1 hour to see if it will at least hold a vacuum and if so then vacuum it out for an additional 1 hour and then recharge it.. Add your freon and oil at a slow pace and watch the gauge readings.. Depending the outside temperature you will what the high side to be between 200 to 250psi and the low side to be between 30 to 40psi.
Its located on the accumulator...................
No............... . Just let the engine get to its operating temperature and service it out at an idle only......
Using a set of a/c gauges put the blue hose on the low side (suction side) and the red hose on the high side (discharge side) and make sure that there is no freon in the syste…m and if you have freon in the system then you will have to go to an automotive a/c shop and have them reclaim it for you.. Put the yellow hose on your vacuum pump and let it run for about 1 hour and then let it sit for 1 hour so that you can see if it will at least hold the vacuum pulled. If so then let it run for an additional hour and then start the recharging process remembering to keep the low side readings between 30 to 40psi and the high side between 200 to 250psi depending on the outside temperatureâ¦â¦â¦â¦â¦.
Several times can cause this........ 1. The AC compressor is bad. 2. You have a restriction in the system. 3. You may have overcharged the a/c system. 4. You may have adde…d too much oil back into the system.
You should not have to recharge your system unless you have a leak. Other wise you do not need to recharge your system.
Refrigerant, not freon - Freon is specific to certain types of refrigerants manufactured by DuPont. The question which needs to be asked here is whether or not you're the or…iginal owner of the vehicle. And here's why.. A 1993 Saturn would have come from the factory with an AC system which uses R-12 refrigerant. Automotive AC systems were mandated to switch to R-134a beginning with the 1995 model year. Many people who had vehicles with R-12 systems ended up having them converted to R-134a. However, the complete R-134a conversion kits were (and still are) very expensive, so many people had a much simpler but operational enough conversion done which mainly changed fittings, the metering device, and the oil in the compressor. Most of these conversions did not replace the schrader valves, and thus these systems will still have R-12 schrader valves. If you're not the original owner or you don't know the complete history of the vehicle, I would strongly recommend that you have a shop do a refrigerant purity test so that you can know for certain whether it was converted to R-134a or not.
If it leaked out completely I would start with 2 cans but ensure leak is fixed before you attempt to recharge. The valve is 1 way and you can buy a can with a guage attached. …if pressure still lower than 125 after you can always add more and they are about 15.00 ea.
Well, if the unit was originally meant to be recharged with the old freon, a kit is needed to allow recharge with the new.
Until a leak develops which allows the refrigerant to escape.