How do you remove brake rotor on 1994 Honda Accord?
On an Accord, the pads do not come off without removing the
caliper first. The rotor on these Accords is not easily removeable
by most home mechanics, it is a difficult job. You do NOT "knock
the rotor off of the spindle", the rotor removes from the wheel
bearing hub assembly only after the bearing assembly is removed
from the steering knuckle, (it doesn't have a spindle).
Here's how: Remove hubcap. Use large 36mm socket (borrow it or buy
it for about $18), use it and a large breaker bar to loosen the
drive axle nut. THEN loosen the lug nuts, lift the car and remove
the wheel. Remove the 14mm bolts that attach the rotor to the hub
assembly, these are in between the lug studs. The rotor is now
loose, but you can't get it off yet. Remove the lower ball joint
cotter pin and nut, the pinch bolt at the lower end of the strut,
the through-bolt for the strut fork, two bolts for the stabilizer
link, remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod, use a pickle
fork to separate the tie rod and steering knuckle, then separate
the lower ball joint. Pull the steering knuckle assembly off of the
drive axle, turn the knuckle as far to the outside as possible, to
access the four bolts that hold the bearing hub assembly to the
knuckle. Remove these 4 bolts (14mm) and soak the bearing area with
penetrating oil. Remove the hub bearing from the knuckle, (this is
rusted in place on most of these cars I've worked on and is usually
EXTREMELY difficult to get it loose without destroying it.) Once
the hub is removed from the knuckle, the rotor is now free. So as
you can see the front brake pads are a quick, easy job on this car
but the brake rotor is not.
Go to www.hondahookup.com. Register as a member. You will have
to activate your account through the em that Hondahookup has sent
you in your em. After you activate your account you will be given a
welcome message. You are now ready to go to manuals. Go to manuals.
Look for the 94 Honda Accord CD7_CD9 Manual. Download it to your
desktop. You have to have Adobe reader to view the manual. Its a
free download from Adobe. When you download Adobe reader download
it to your desktop. Once it is downloaded, exit all of your
applications. Run your Adobe application without any other system
running. This assures for a clean setup. If other applications are
running at the time you are installing Adobe, you may have to
reinstall the whole deal again. The manual that you download will
describe in detail how to do your work with illustrations. It will
give you the most professional way to do it. It also tells you the
special tools that are needed. The manual from Honda Hookup is a
more detail description. The job is easy if you have the right
tools. I have air tools. You don't need air tools. Also use a
digital camera to record your movements. Use small plastic
containers with labels to know where the bolts & nuts go. Buy a
Haynes # 42013 Honda Accord 1994 thru 1997 repair manual. Always
have a manual for the car you own. An original Honda manual is the
best. The Haynes manual is not as good for this job as the Honda
manual I got from the Honda Hookup website. The Haynes manual does
show how to use a two-jaw puller on page 10-6, picture #8.5, to
separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle balljoint.
On page 10-11, picture #16.4, it shows how to use the two-jaw
puller to separate the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle arm. I
buy the right tools for the right job, I used the Honda tool not
the two jaw puller, it didn't go under the ball joint properly for
me. Make sure your car is stable before you start working. Don't
depend on a hydraulic jack to hold your car up. Use strong jack
stands. I use 6 jack stands. Use tight blue rubber gloves to keep
your hands from looking like crude. Clean the brakes with brake
cleaner first. If its hot outside use a fan. The fan will blow away
all of the harmful dust that you may breathe in. I also use sun
blockers if you are in the open. Sun blockers are anything that
keeps the sun off of you. If you are crafty you can build a canopy
to block the sun. I have light stands and sand bags that I use to
attach large pieces of cardboard to. The sand bags are to keep the
light stands from falling over. This is for blocking the sun. I can
also place a tarp over my work area with this method. For outside
cold weather I use a 1000 watt Lowell D light. You can buy this
light from BH photo. Its the best light in the world for winter
work. I use portable led lanterns, Power On Board from Sam's. I
also use a portable Dewalt light. All are rechargeable. Work smart
not hard. Take a break if you get tired. Problems happen you are
tired. Always have a cell phone near by for the unthinkable. We
won't talk about this. lol If you have a video camera shoot what
you do. It will be great as a guide when you have to put it all
back together. Also it can be uploaded to youtube. I have been
working on my cars all of my life with the help of all of my
professional mechanic friends advice. I always buy Honda parts.
Honda parts are the finest. It only cost a few dollars more to go
first class. You can get oem Honda parts on-line for the same price
as the aftermarket parts. Just type into the search engine
"original Honda parts". One example is majestic Honda I buy mine
on-line and at the Honda store in town. Have a blast working &
learning on your Honda!
Update: Recently I found out that if you put this tool number
into Google you will get all of the information you will ever want
on the subject of how to do anything with your Honda. Its a gold
mine of information. Just type this into Google, 07MAC-SL00100 (32
mm). You will get pdf's about different makes of Honda's. The
07MAC-SL00100 (32 mm) is a Honda ball joint separator tool that
works on the 94 Honda and many other Honda cars. It separates the
ball joint from the lower arm. If you use this special Honda tool
you will make your job really easy. So many mechanics take the nut
off of the ball joint and beat the lower arm until it separates.
This is not the way I would recommend you to do it. You can
accidentally hit the threaded part of the ball joint and then you
are really in trouble. You have to put a 12mm hex nut onto the end
of the threaded section of the ball joint to prevent damage to the
treads. Then use the ball joint separator. There are many mechanics
that use a Pittman arm separator to separate the ball joint from
the lower arm. This method will tear the rubber boot on the ball
joint. This is why I use the Honda 07MAC-SL00100 ball separator
tool. $138 online. The tool will pay for itself. You can use other
tools to do the job but you might be out of more money than you
have bargained for in the end. Use the right tool for the right job
and don't sweat it. Its easy when you use the Honda tool. Tearing
the rubber boot will get you into more work. You will then have to
replace the ball joint. Trying to save money can actually make you
spend more money. How many times have I tried to save and then said
"I knew better but I was trying to save money that I didn't have".
If you have to replace the struts you will need the Honda tool
again. What about if you eventually have to replace the ball joint.
You can use this tool over and over again. And if you have a friend
who has a Honda Accord you can split the cost.
I just looked into the Haynes Repair Manual # 42013. On page
10-6 picture # 8.5 they show how to separate the lower control arm
from the steering knuckle balljoint with a two-jaw puller.
Evidently it works. And it can also be used to separate the tie-rod
end from the steering knuckle arm on page 10-11 picture # 16.4.
This is probably the best way to go. The Honda special tool is the
best but some what pricey. After finally doing all of the research
on this job, I would recommend you using the two jaw puller that
you see in the Haynes shop manual. It's more affordable than the
hard to get Honda tool. As you see the Honda tool is made special
for this job but the two jaw puller works well.
Update: I just found a web page that shows in detail how to use
the Honda tool. Here is the web address.
Check this site out, I thought it was very informative. It has
step by step information with detailed pictures of how to do the
whole operation. I still think the special Honda tool is the best
way to go. Still check this out. In this website the persons says
the two jaw puller that the Haynes manual says use doesn't work. He
didn't use the special Honda tool. He used a pickled fork which
will damage the rubber boot on the ball joint. I still like the
effort he has given here. He does show that you new the star 12mm
socket to loosen the hub. That is something I hadn't touched
This is really the best example I have ever seen on how to use
the tool. This tool works on more than one Honda. Always check with
your local Honda dealer as to which of the two Honda tools is right
for your Honda. It takes a minimum of two weeks to get this tool
from all of the Honda dealerships & it could take even
I haven't been able to find the Honda tool from any place except
update: I just found this online, I do not recommend this. This
is an example of what I told you about people using the wrong tool.
This person has said to use the pickled fork to separate the ball
joint from the spindle. I would not use the pickled fork myself. I
just wanted to let you see what others are saying. This is not my
recommendations. this is a way to tear the rubber boot in my
opinion. I know that thousands of mechanics all over the world use
this method. NOT ME!!! Here goes someones opinion....
"Your Accord has what is called "Trapped Rotors". They actually
fit behind the hub. The procedure to remove them is not
complicated, but it is time consuming.
Here is how I do it:
1) Remove axle retaining nut.
2) Remove brake caliper and bracket.
3) Remove lower ball joint retaining nut and use pickle fork to
loosen spindle from lower ball joint.
4) Remove axle from hub.
5) On the back of the spindle, remove four bolts that attach
hub/bearing to spindle.
6) Use slide hammer to remove rotor/hub assembly.
7) Remove 4 bolts attaching rotor to hub.
8) While it is a snug fit, the hub bearing does slide through
center of rotor to remove it.
Installation is in reverse order.
A bad bearing usually makes a growling noise while driving".
- == Final thoughts on this whole deal! Use the Honda tool or
the OTC ball joint separator from Sears. Item# 00971255000
Model# 6297. They have cheaper versions. From what I have read from
others who have tried the two jaw puller it doesn't have a good
enough grip on the jaw area to get under the rubber boot to hold
on. That's why Honda made their tool to securely hold on.
- UPDATE 11-10-09
- I just changed out my rotors. I can truly say that I have
new news about this ordeal. This is ground breaking NEWS. I now
know how to do the whole job. Without a serious problem in getting
it done. Follow my advice above about the Honda tool. It worked so
fast & efficiently. I left off the instructions @ the point
where it really gets tough. After you have disconnected everything,
you still have to separate the rotor from the hub. All of this is
done while the rotor & the hub are still attached to the car.
Reconnect the tire rod end for stability. Use two cold chisels
(regular size with flat points, the gap is flat so you use flat
pointed chisels). You have to place the chisels between the front
hub(the part with the tire studs on it) and the rotor. Place one
chisel on the left and the other on the right. I heard a story
about a person using a air chisel, it won't work unless the
attachment is large enough to separate the two pieces. Take a 5
pound hammer and bang your head off. Do not hurt anything in the
center. Always look to see where you are banging. Don't hit
anything. Just use the chisels to move into open areas between the
two objects. Use a small flash lite to see where the chisels are
headed. Once you have separated the front hub piece as far as you
can and the front hub hasn't released itself, use a steel wood
wedge. After a nite of using the two small cold chisels with
success, I had failure on the drivers side. I couldn't get the hub
& the rotor to separate. (the two small chisels were not thick
enough)The log splitter wedge is the tool to use if the two cold
chisels don't work. I had two of them in my tool bin. It worked
like a charm. There you have it. Use the two regular cold chisels
first. (always look where you are going with the chisels)You have
to use the two small cold chisels first. The gap between the the
hub part with the tire studs & the rotor is too small to use
the log splitting wedges. I now call the log splitting wedges the
new separators for this job. After separation, you have to rejoin
the two hub pieces. Attach the rotors bolts to the front hub piece
with strength. Use pressure to tighten the bolts into rotor. It has
to align itself for proper rotation. Use a 2X4 on top of the back
side of the hub to put the two parts of the hub back together. (
you have to use the wood as a cushion so not to hurt the metal. You
have to take the mud guard off to get to the back part of the hub.
An impact screw driver was used to take the mud guard screws off.
(only on one side, use a penetrating oil) I had to use gentle
knocking and penetrating fluid to release the back hub part &
patience. It was all rusted after I got it off. I sanded all of the
rust away with Grey fine sandpaper. I repacked the bearings. I can
now tell you that separating the rotor from the hub is unreal if
you use a slide hammer(a hub separator won't work as good as my
method). The rust can cause serious problems. My method of using
the chisels & the log splitting wedges works better than the
sliding hammer & hub separator. The force you put on the chisel
and the wedge is greater than the force you can place on the
sliding hammer. You can't use a regular hammer. Has to be a 5 lb.
or larger. Don't let the hammer slide off the chisel, it just might
hit you left index finger. (still in pain, I was tired when doing
this job, never use the hammer when tired) Use the wedges after you
get a good gap. Good luck.