Unfortunatley the only way I could get them off was with a 10lb sledge hammer, needless to say I had to replace the rotor.
Jack up and safely support front of vehicle. Remove front wheels. Remove front brake calipers and hang them with wire so not to damage brake hoses. Remove brake caliper brackets. Remove brake rotors. Rotors may need a little persuasion with a large hammer as they may be stuck/rusted in place. Reverse order to install rotors.
remove wheel use i believe a T-55 torx bit to remove caliper if rotors are stuck carefully heat rotor center around hub assembly and remove rotor (easier said than done!!!) compress caliper piston with c- clamp replace brake pads and calipers then wheel. sometimes it is handy to remove the cap from the master cylinder to relieve air.
Jack up the front of the car and support on jackstands and remove the front wheels. Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. The calipers are mounted on brackets which have two bolts attaching them to the steering knuckles. Remove the two small bolts attaching the calipers to the brackets and support them with wire, then remove the brackets. Remove two retaining screws from each rotor and remove the rotors. The retaining screws may require an impact type screwdriver to remove them and if the rotors are stuck they can be removed by threading two 10 mm bolts into threaded holes in the rotors. The rotors should be machined or replaced. Reverse to reassemble. After the caliper mounting brackets are in place install the pads on them and press the piston in on the caliper with a c-clamp and install it over them. The caliper bracket bolts are tight (I believe 80 ft lbs) but the small bolts holding on the calipers are ~20 ft lbs I think. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the pads.
Take off rear wheel. Remove brake calipers and support them with wire. Remove rotors. If they do not come right off they are either rusted on or they are stuck on the parking brake which is "drum style" located inside the rotor. There should be a hole in the hub face of the rotor to access the adjuster. Try turning the adjuster with a screw driver or brake spoon. Turning the adjuster "UP" loosens "Down" Tightens. Sometimes a large rubber hamer or prybar is needed.
here are a few tricks.some rotors have a threaded holes for bolts to be installed into.turn in the bolts a bit at a time to free from the flange.or remove the caliper and use a chunk of wood to protect the rotor and smack it with a large hammer.rotate the rotor a 1/4 turn and hit again repeat process till free.hit from backside of rotor.
The best time to do this is during a brake job. This applies to both front and back rotors. If you are doing the back rotors, make sure you don't have the emergency brake on or you'll never (and I do mean never) get them off without serious damage to something. Remove the tires.Using an Allen wrench/socket remove the brake calipers.Using a wrench/socket remove the frame that holds the calipers.If this is the first time you're doing rotors you may have 2 or 3 of these round things (sorry, the name escapes me) that hold the rotor on at the factory. Take a screwdriver and some pliers and unscrew them off the threads. You do not need to keep these unless you really want to.The rotors will just slide off now. If they're stuck at all, get a mallet (not a hammer) and tap around the backside of the rotor to loosen it up. Good Luck.
1. Remove the brake hose to caliper bolt from the brake caliper. 2. Remove the brake hose from the brake caliper. 3. Remove and discard the 2 copper brake hose gaskets. These gaskets may be stuck to the brake caliper and/or the brake hose end. 4. Cap or plug the opening in the brake caliper and the brake hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination. 5. Remove the 2 brake caliper pin bolts. Remove the park brake cable from the caliper. 6. Remove the brake caliper from the brake caliper bracket.
The same way you do on the front. If they seem stuck. Tap them with a rubber mallet and try spraying some silicone spray to loosen them up. With a little elbow grease and patience they will eventually come off. Trust me I did it.changing rear brake rotors on 2003 expedThe same way you do on the front. If they seem stuck. Tap them with a rubber mallet and try spraying some silicone spray to loosen them up. With a little elbow grease and patience they will eventually come off. Trust me I did it.
In order to remove any rotors that stuck on a vehicle, usually you have to hit the rotor hub part with a large hammer being careful not to hit the wheel studs. This is done to break the seal of rust that builds up which keeps the rotor stuck. On some occasions, the rotor will have little threaded holes in which you have to drive the correct size bolt through until the rotor pops off.
You will need to remove the rear rotors in order to access the parking brake adjustment. Chances are the parking brakes are completely worn down, and the rotors will need to be replaced. The 2000-2001 Tahoes are notorious for sticking parking brakes. The Tahoe utilizes a drum style brake pad located inside the hat of the rear rotors. There is a fairly tight tolerance between the parking brake and the drum portion of the inside of the rotor. There is a cogged nut that can be spun to adjust the diameter of the parking brake assembly. The following is likely the cause of premature parking brake failure. The driver side has a lever located on the inner part of the brake assembly. On the driver side the lever has a protrusion that can get stuck against the back of the brake assembly when actuated. The protrusion serves no purpose, and there is a Chevy TSB that recommends grinding it off.
take off wheel remove all brake equip. should be two lit screw on rotor i would sray with pb blaster first then remove them try not to brake not important just pain n butt if u do then either rent a claw puller frm autozne or beat it off with hammer they are usually stuck pretty good took couple hours ta get mine to bust free
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