How do you replace the alternator on a 1995 Mercury Mystique?

Answer 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Using a 3/8" drive, release tension on the tensioner and slip the belt off of an accessory.

3. Loosen the passenger side front wheel lug nuts, then raise front of vehicle and remove wheel.

4. Reinstall two adjacent lug nuts onto the brake rotor and using a prybar on the lugnuts and a socket with a breaker bar, loosen and remove the nut from the splined half shaft(this nut supposedly looses its torque ability and needs to be replaced after being loosened).

5. Remove the Stabilizer bar link. This will require two wrenches, one placed near the rubber seal area. (This step caused me a 3-day delay as I had to order a new one when the nut broke off with the bolt intake)

6. Remove the steering knuckle pinch bolt and separate the ball joint from the "A"-shaped suspension component with the appropriate tool or prybar.

7. Remove the "Y"-shaped exhaust pipe from underneath the vehicle. Spraying a lubricant on the 6 studs and nuts will aid the removal of these nuts. (Stripping of these threads is easily done with the galling that can happen from the hot conditions it has undergone. This accounts to adding another 3 days to my repair.If possible tighten the nut 1/8 of a turn before removing to keep from pulling rust into threads)

8. Remove the half shaft after extracting it from the steering nuckle. (It may be just as easy to remove the nuckle prior to removal of the half shaft, even though this requires removing the ABS sensor, brake caliper, and rotor.) A slide hammer can assist on freeing the half shaft from the other half shaft.

9. Loosen the 5 nuts needed to remove the half shaft that goes into the transmission. Apparently this half shaft is balanced from the factory and should be reinstalled in the same allignment, so mark the transaxle and the half shaft to make this possible. Remove the half shaft.

10. There are 3 electrical connections to the alternator: a 3-pin connector that can be removed by slipping off the clip, a 1-pin connector that is removed by gently prying the plastic clip portion up, and a battery cable sized cable that attaches with a nut that can be removed with a 3/16" socket.

11. There are now 4 bolts that need to be loosened before the alternator can be removed. Three of the bolts are easily reached, while the 4th is not visible and will have to be felt for. A 13mm socket will be needed to remove these bolts. The exhaust manifold and the attached O2 sensor blocks access to the hidden bolt, and removal of the manifold has its own set of hidden bolts which makes removal of the manifold to access the alternator bolt unfeasible.

12. Installation is the reverse of the above, but it is highly recommended that you replace the O2 sensor that is now exposed. It uses a square connector, not a round one like the more accessible "catalyst monitor" sensors. This vehicle has a whopping 4 sensors distributed over 2 banks. If you choose to replace this sensor, a tip on removing the electrical connector: find a 3-inch or so 3/16" diameter or less piece of metal(I used a tap) and using one hand to feel for the access hole which will point to the rear of the vehicle, use the other hand with the metal piece to insert into the hole and releasing the clip, pull on the connector to disconect the heated oxygen sensor. Alternative method This task can also be accomplished WITHOUT removing the drive shafts.

Jack the car up as high as possible and support with jack stands.

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the passenger side wheel & inner fender well covers

3. Remove the exhaust Y-pipe. Soak the seven nuts with penetrating lubricant.

4. Remove the serpentine belt from the alternator.

5. Unbolt the upper roll bar mounting point from the strut.

6. Unbolt the steering joint & press out of the steering arm.

At this point you should be able to see the bottom portion of the alternator.

7. From under the car you should see a bracket that supports the intemediate shaft. Unbolt the two nuts that connect the intermediate shaft bearing to the bracket.

8. Unbolt the three bolts that hold the bracket to the engine. Then remove the bracket. You now have enough room to get to the alternator bolts.

9. Use a 13mm socket with a universal joint on the end of a long extension to get to the upper alternator bolt. I was able to reach around into the wheel well with my right hand up to the top of the alternator bolt to help guide the socket onto the bolt.

10. The bottom bolt is easy to get to. But the universal makes it a little easier, because the Intermediate shaft is still there.

11. The rear alternator bracket is removed with a 10mm socket.

12. Once the bolts are out you make need to pry the alternator out of the bottom of its mount.

13. Once loose, pivot the alternator on its pulley down towards the control arm. If you are having problems bringing the alternator down past the rubber boot, just rotate the brake disk and it will walk the alternator out. You will have easy access to the electrical connections.

Replace with new alternator and reverse the process.

Answer 2

to replace the alternator there are many steps. 1st disconnect the battery, safety first. second, the part of the air filter that sits above the engine needs to be removed, a metric 10 will get rid of the 3 or 4 bolts holding it in. This will allow you to get at the first of the three alternator bolts. The bolts are a m13. next put the car on jack stands and remove the front right tyre. Then remove part of the tyre well that protects the belt from dirt and debris. Reach behind the alternator and remove the bolt on the wiring side first. Then remove the little wheel below the alternator. Move the belt so its out of your way. Then remove the bolt on the otherside underneath the alternator. This bolt can only be accessed through the wheel well. Remove the bolt on the top last then desconnect the wires. Take the alternator out of the top and put in the new one. Reconnect it the same way it was disconnected using the top bolt to hold it in place. That's it really. Its alot of stupid finagaling but over when you know what to do its not to hard.

Answer 3

Ill say first off, very difficult. I was a mechanic for 10 years (Chrysler vehicles) and never had the pleasure of replacing the alternator on a 99 Cougar 2.5 V6 until this week. Again, this is a very very difficult alternator to replace, and I don't recommend average joe tackling this. This is best left to someone with at least a couple years of automotive experience.

I have read the previous posts, and there are several things that DONT need to be done (these things don't make it easier, trust me). The exhaust pipe does NOT have to be removed, neither does the outer tie rod, or intermediate CV axle shaft. Removing these parts just makes more work, especially the exhaust. All of the exhaust bolts on the particular vehicle I was working on were rusted bad, and basically would have had to be cut. Glad I didnt try to tackle it that way. Heres the how-to:

1. Jack the vehicle up and secure it on jackstands. The higher the better.

2. Remove both front wheels.

3. Remove the pinch bolt and separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle on the passenger side.

4.Remove the two plastic splash shields from around the cv shaft and tie rod. This will get you access to the alt and lower part of the engine.

5. Remove the CV axle nut.

6. Remove the CV axle. Chances are you will have to beat the axle out from the hub with a punch. Once you get it out of the hub, take a punch and hammer and tap on the other end of the CV axle to separate it from the intermediate shaft. Remove the cv axle from the car.

7. Using an 8" extension, a swivel, and a 10mm socket, (you will have to run it between the steel Power Steering lines around the alt) remove the alternator support bracket bolt from the block.

8. Remove the main power cable from the back of the alt. 10mm.

9. Using a 13mm wrench, remove the main lower bolt securing the alternator.

10. Now heres the hard part. You will need about 3 feet of extensions, and a 13mm socket. You will have to run these extensions in from the drivers side of the car. Run them in and put the socket on the top alternator bolt. You will need a swivel and another 12" of extensions connected to a breaker bar through the drivers side wheel well. Once you get the bolt broke loose, you will have to take a prybar and pry the alternator free from its mount.

11. Remove the 2 plugs from the alternator, and pull it out of the car forward of the passenger side strut assembly.

12. Install the new alt, reverse of removal. Youll have to tap it back in place in the bracket. Plug the wiring in before you do this.

Good luck, this alt install really sucks. Reserve 3 to 4 hours for it. Its a very poor design, and I am not sure what Ford was thinking when they put this car together. If you've got a new Cougar and it needs an alternator, you have my condolences.

Answer 4

First, you'll have to remove the air box over the throttle, which is done with a ratchet by removing the 10 mm bolts. You'll also have to widen the hose clamp to take the box off. Once off, plug the throttle with a clean rag to prevent dirt from gettin into it. Once done, grab a light, and look to the left of the throttle. You should be able to identify the alternator by looking at the new one. Once found, you'll need to identify the right size wrench/socket to use to take off the bolts (1/2 inch) . Look at the new one to see how the bolts go in. The bolt heads are located on the inside of the two bolt tabs. They're really tight!!, so be sure to put a lot of pressure on the wrench to loosen them. Once loosened, remove the wire hookups on the back of the alternator. Then fully take the bolts out, the two in back and one in front. You'll have to hold back wires to get the alternator out, so it is best to have at least two people working on this. You'll also have to slip the serpentine belt off first by using a 15mm socket on the tensioner (you'll get to it easier by removing the passenger side tire). Once out, follow the above in reverse, putting the serpentine on last to replace. If it is a remanufactured alternator, you might have to take the bushing out and use the old one. You can do this by putting a bolt through it with a large socket on one side and a nut on the end, then tightening. Do the same to take out the old one, and to put it back in. You will also want to replace the battery at the same time, if you don't it will die very soon.

Answer 5

- Unhook the battery. - Remove the drivebelt from the alternator and other accesories. There will be a belt tensioner pulley that you can use a socket on to lossen up the tension so the belt drops. The belt tensioner pulley is on a spring and automatically tightens. - Take off the electrical connections from the alterntor on the back. - Unbolt the mounting bolts on the alternator. - Install new alternator bolt it up, put the wires back on, put the belt back on and your set. Its very easy on this car compared to the smaller more modern cars. It should only take you about and hour or two if you have the V8. I strongly recommend that you pick up a repair manual for your car.

Answer 6

You can replace the alternator on your 1989 Mercury Cougar by removing the alternator belt. Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.

Answer 7

first you have to take off the passenger side tire. the alternator has 3 bolts take them out the top 1 first with 2 extensions and 1 swivel. next take out the bottom 2 .then you will have to push on the alternator from the top side with a long screwdriver to get it off of the bolt. then you have to loosen the stabilizer bar about half way to allow enough room for the alt. to come out .then it is just a matter of getting it turned the right direction's will come out toward the front .to put it back in repeat the process in reverse. good luck!!!

Answer 8

You have a shop do it unfortunately. new alternator from ford cost me in the area of $300 plus labor on top. you have to drop all kinds of stuff to get to the alternator. gotta take it out from underneath. goodluck.

Answer 9

Well, get ready for something of a chore, I've done it twice now.

Jack car up and install jack stands, leave jack under there for safety. I got mine about 10 or so inches and had enough room to get in and out.

Remove passenger tire.
Remove mud guard in wheelwell.
Remove splash guard between strut and pulleys.
Remove steering rod end, push toward rear and out of the way as far as you can.
There is another rod end, stabilizer type, halfway up strut, remove it, let it fall forward.

You are now ready to get at the alt. Be advised, you will have to do this exactly like I describe, or you may not be able to swing it.

Remove belt. There is more room to insert 1/2 in drive from the bottom to get at the tensioner, as there is a bend in the metal that makes topside access difficult if not impossible.

You will need about 1.5 feet of extensions, a swivel joint and a 15mm socket. This is for the top mount nut removal. You will have to be patient, get the straightest shot at it you can, over this through that, but I still had to use a hammer to seat the socket fully, remove the nut. If you don't do it this way, you will strip the nut. BE CAREFUL!

Remove two lower mount bolts, alt should be ready to slide off top bolt, let it do so as far as you can, knowing it will not come off as yet, but will be able to rotate it somewhat. You can't get it off yet because a bend in the alt cable against the steering rod prevents you, once you get the cable off, it will slide off the top bolt.

You will need more extensions a swivel and a 10mm socket to get the cable off. Coming from the drivers side toward the alt, seat the 10mm and remove nut and cable. Again, this will require an effort to get the straightest shot at the nut.

I used my ridiculously long needle nose pliers to come in from the passenger side, grip the field connector, and, pushing the tab in with my other hand, removed connector.

Alt should now come out easily.

Install in reverse order.