It's not as easy as it should be - you have to remove all of the obvious stuff to gain access to the cover from the top. Remove serpentine belt. Jack up passenger front wheel, secure with jack stands. Remove the splash shield to gain access to the crank pulley, remove that pulley, loosen all of the timing cover bolts. Put the crank pulley retaining bolt back on crank and use it to rotate engine to top dead center (align little dots on crank and case). Then mark the chain where it meets the two cam sprockets, remove the chain tensioner (lower on the engine, near the crank). Next, remove the two cam sprockets from the cams. Then the trick is to remove all the bolts in the face of the timing cover that hold it to the block plus loosen the nuts that hold the water pump (under the exhaust manifold) to the timing cover. Don't remove the nuts entirely or you'll have trouble getting them started again (at least the one nearest the engine block). With the water pump loose enough, you should have enough clearance to get the cam cover off the top of the cam housing. You can do all of this without removing any of the engine mounts, but you will have to work with the timing cover to find just the position that it will go up over the mount and allow you to work inside the timing chain housing. I'd recommend getting a Chilton's manual - what I've stated is not working line for line from that book, but what I've figured out by using that book as a reference and doing a bit of experimenting.
Johnson outboards, model RDS-24L, would be a 1962 year model, 40 hp. the boat motor is a 50 hp.
try checking your catalyctic converter
Check plugs and plug wires---worked for mine.
I have a 2000, I'm sure they are the same..take the four bolts off the top cover (the one that says 2.4 or whatever) and carefully lift the piece out...there are plastic and rubber boots attaching the cover to the plugs.
I'm assuming you mean "hotwire"? Don't try it. You will fry the computer.
24L/1500mL = 24/1.5 = 16 buckets.
Open the hood and look straight down on the front of the motor. It is in front of the motor by the fan.
it is not to bad a job,i recommend you buy the service manual from autozone or advance because you need step by step instructions to do it. Before you do it check on availability of radiator as some of the earlier galants radiators are kinda scarce. Just means you will have to special order it in,thats all.
You didn't say which engine, but, The 24L DOHC engine is located in the top coil pack cover It is a rectangle shape plugin next to the fuel lines. On an 2.2L OHV engine follow the plug wires. It will be underneeth the coil pack. Either way the coil packs are sitting on top of the ICM....
4 Runways which you can land both ways - so 8 in total... 6L/24R 6R/24L 7L/25R 7R/25L
I need a trigger guard of a Savage 24L-DL any help.I would start my search at Numrich Gun parts Corp.
1 mol N2 = 28g 30C = 303K At STP, 1mol * 273K is proportional 24L * 760torr. (PV = nRT) Then we do a little bit of stoichiometry... 10g * 1mol/28g * 24L*760torr/(1mol*273K) * 303K * xL/750torr = 9.6402 L 10.0g of N2 at 30C and 750torr should occupy 9.6402L
maybe some water stuck in the cylinders
Flight AA832 on final approach to runway 24L. It was held up by weather over Kentucky, and arrived at an unusual time.
It has both. As a rule:--U-Joints are usually found on drive shafts and CV joints are usually found on half shafts.
The 24L in a 2010 Dodge Avenger has a timing chain, not a belt. The timing chain should last the life of the car.
AnswerAll I know is that 1998 2.4 Cylinder head will fit on a 2002 2.4 as I sold mine to a guy rebuilding one. He did mention that sensor location was in a different spot but that was all.So some difference but not that much I guessI replaced a 1996 engine with a 1998. The '96 has a check oil sensor in the oil pan where the '98 does not. This doesn't affect the cars running, but you'll need to remove the 'check oil' bulb from the dash or swap oil pans to accomodate the '96 sensor. The anti-knock sensor is also different as the '96 uses a single wire sensor and the '98 uses a 2 wire. The A/K sensors also mount differently so you can't just swap them out. I jury-rigged a '96 sesor to press against the block and it works fine.
Best answer is to check the owner's manual. If car is missing that, go to a Chrysler dealer and pick a manual up. All fluid replacement intervals are spelled out in the manual.
For all the 2.3, 2.4L QUAD 4 engines, the head bolts are Torque to Yield. The porper torque value is 30ftlbs PLUS a 90 degree turn of the wrench. The bolts must be new every time ( NEVER REUSE OLD BOLTS). The torque values and proper sequence are including in the box the new bolts come with. BUT honestly, the torque value is 65ft lbs like all GM Chevy motors have been for eons.
More than likely 10W30. Your owner's manual will list the exact weight required. * I drive a 2000 Plymouth Breeze with a 2.4L engine. The owners manual recommends 5W30 weigt oil.
The O2 sensor after the converter is easy, the front sensor is more challeging. You need a sensor socket possibly some liquid wrench. Put the socket on the front sensor located on the exhaust manifold with the ratchet handle pointing up between the valve cover and fire wall, once it is broken free finish removing it from the bottom unplug the old one and plug in the new one. Do the same for sensor 2.
Presumably L, W, H mean length, width and height, and each one is expressed as a number of feet in size. To find the volume you find 24 x 19.75 x 29, and the answer is called "Cubic Feet".