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You need a really massive impact wrench--something that cranks off from 300 to 400 lb-ft of torque. A lot of people at Tegger's Honda FAQ swear by the DeWalt 1/2" drive electric, which puts out 350 lb-ft. Ridgid (sold at Home Depot) sells a 1/2" drive model that kicks off 400 lb-ft. Harbor Freight sells one that is 3/4" drive (they also sell 3/4"-1/2" adapters because 3/4" drive impact sockets are generally huge) and that develops 400 lb-ft torque. I work at Home Depot but I bought my wrench from Harbor Freight...the $80 I saved bought sockets, the adapter and beer.

Air wrenches? The ones that develop enough torque are really expensive and they don't really work any better.

An impact wrench this big will screw that bolt out so fast you won't need to lock the crankshaft.

there is a hole on the rear of the block on the drivers side located just behind the rear balance shaft so you can lock your engine #1 cylinder @ TDC with a 6mmX100mm bolt or screwdriver. there is a hole machined into the balance shaft that holds everything still so you can get done....I would also recommend the use of an impact....

I just change my timing belt and water pump. In order to do this, you must drop the engine and remove the crankshaft pulley.

I could not have done it correctly had I not purchased a Chilton's Repair Manual.

Also, you will probably have to purchase or make a special tool in order to get the nut loose, although you might be able to do it with an impact wrench.

Either way, Chilton's gives a very detail explanation of how to do everything without messing up your timing. It explains how to set TDC (top dead center) on the #1 cylinder.

Don't try using a breaker bar and hitting the starter. These Hondas turn the wrong way for that.

Honda makes a tool that has a hex head which fits in the crankshaft pulley, with a hole in the middle that you can fit the required 19" socket. I refused to wait for the dealer parts department to open M-F to get the special Honda tool which holds the crankshaft pulley and I'm too cheap to spend the $50 bucks. So, I went to Lowes and got a 1.5" X 2" galvanized coupling and a 1.5" X 1" galvanized bushing. The bushing has a hex head that was slightly too big. I used an angle grinder to shave it down and each side. I needed the coupling to give me enough length to get past the pulley. I then used a 12" pipe wrench on this with a brick wedged under it. the handle of the pipewrench was under the coupling the pointing to the front of the car. I had to turn the pulley with my breaker bar to get tension on this as it didn't fit snug enough to hold itself up. Initially, I found the only progress I was making was continuing to tighten the bushing/coupling joint but eventually it bottomed out and the torque started to apply to the bolt.

Next, I couldn't figure out how to get a long cheater on the breaker bar. Here, my friend led me to add to my 19mm, 1/2" drive socket, 10" and 6" extensions (16" total). I supported these extensions with a jack stand. I attached my 18" breaker bar to the extensions and a 4 foot cheater pipe to the breaker bar. I put all my weight on the pipe and in a few seconds I heard that beautiful snap of the bolt breaking loose. Once I got the right leverage, it was a piece of cake. Getting the right leverage took two days of talking to a whole bunch of people, trying many different setups, using heat, a sledge hammer and my friends impact. Ultimately, it all goes back to leverage.

YOU DONT HAVE TO DROP THE ENGINE FOR THAT!!! ITS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO GET IT OFF THOUGH. THERES A TOOL CALLED A PULLEY HOLDER THAT YOU CAN USE IF ALL ELSE FAILS.

The comment about the galvanized coupling needs an addendum: For some reason no one can understand, Honda used three different crank pulleys on Accords. Only one of them works with the galvanized coupling tool, but if you have one of those pulleys the aforementioned tool works very well.

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โˆ™ 2015-07-16 19:00:06
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Q: How do you remove the crank pulley bolt on a '92 Accord 2.2 liter?
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