You need a really massive impact wrench--something that cranks off from 300 to 400 lb-ft of torque. A lot of people at Tegger's Honda FAQ swear by the DeWalt 1/2" drive electric, which puts out 350 lb-ft. Ridgid (sold at Home Depot) sells a 1/2" drive model that kicks off 400 lb-ft. Harbor Freight sells one that is 3/4" drive (they also sell 3/4"-1/2" adapters because 3/4" drive impact sockets are generally huge) and that develops 400 lb-ft torque. I work at Home Depot but I bought my wrench from Harbor Freight...the $80 I saved bought sockets, the adapter and beer.
Air wrenches? The ones that develop enough torque are really expensive and they don't really work any better.
An impact wrench this big will screw that bolt out so fast you won't need to lock the crankshaft.
there is a hole on the rear of the block on the drivers side located just behind the rear balance shaft so you can lock your engine #1 cylinder @ TDC with a 6mmX100mm bolt or screwdriver. there is a hole machined into the balance shaft that holds everything still so you can get done....I would also recommend the use of an impact....
I just change my timing belt and water pump. In order to do this, you must drop the engine and remove the crankshaft pulley.
I could not have done it correctly had I not purchased a Chilton's Repair Manual.
Also, you will probably have to purchase or make a special tool in order to get the nut loose, although you might be able to do it with an impact wrench.
Either way, Chilton's gives a very detail explanation of how to do everything without messing up your timing. It explains how to set TDC (top dead center) on the #1 cylinder.
Don't try using a breaker bar and hitting the starter. These Hondas turn the wrong way for that.
Honda makes a tool that has a hex head which fits in the crankshaft pulley, with a hole in the middle that you can fit the required 19" socket. I refused to wait for the dealer parts department to open M-F to get the special Honda tool which holds the crankshaft pulley and I'm too cheap to spend the $50 bucks. So, I went to Lowes and got a 1.5" X 2" galvanized coupling and a 1.5" X 1" galvanized bushing. The bushing has a hex head that was slightly too big. I used an angle grinder to shave it down and each side. I needed the coupling to give me enough length to get past the pulley. I then used a 12" pipe wrench on this with a brick wedged under it. the handle of the pipewrench was under the coupling the pointing to the front of the car. I had to turn the pulley with my breaker bar to get tension on this as it didn't fit snug enough to hold itself up. Initially, I found the only progress I was making was continuing to tighten the bushing/coupling joint but eventually it bottomed out and the torque started to apply to the bolt.
Next, I couldn't figure out how to get a long cheater on the breaker bar. Here, my friend led me to add to my 19mm, 1/2" drive socket, 10" and 6" extensions (16" total). I supported these extensions with a jack stand. I attached my 18" breaker bar to the extensions and a 4 foot cheater pipe to the breaker bar. I put all my weight on the pipe and in a few seconds I heard that beautiful snap of the bolt breaking loose. Once I got the right leverage, it was a piece of cake. Getting the right leverage took two days of talking to a whole bunch of people, trying many different setups, using heat, a sledge hammer and my friends impact. Ultimately, it all goes back to leverage.
YOU DONT HAVE TO DROP THE ENGINE FOR THAT!!! ITS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO GET IT OFF THOUGH. THERES A TOOL CALLED A PULLEY HOLDER THAT YOU CAN USE IF ALL ELSE FAILS.
The comment about the galvanized coupling needs an addendum: For some reason no one can understand, Honda used three different crank pulleys on Accords. Only one of them works with the galvanized coupling tool, but if you have one of those pulleys the aforementioned tool works very well.
The 5.3 liter Vortec Engine on the 2000 Chevy Silverado has a tapered crank shaft. The crank pulley has no woodruff key, is not indexed and is pressed on.
It comes off like a normal bolt, counter clockwise. You will need to rent a special tool to hold the crank pulley still while you loosen the bolt. It is on very tight.
Should only be one bolt in the middle of the pulley that releases it.
behind the harmonic balancer pulley, i believe.
No it will not. V-8 is different then a 4 and 6 cylinder engine.
The marks are on the timing belt cover,and on the pulley for the crank.
how do you align the crank pulley in reference to the cam pulley on a 2002 escort?
on the harmonic balancer behind the crank pulley
It is on the front of the crank, under the pulley and timng chain.
remove crank pully the gear stays in place its the spring loaded tensioner that will give you some troble with out special tool
Remove the centre bolt the pulley should then slide off. You may need to gently tap the pulley with a soft faced hammer to loosen it.
Take It Off Amd Inspect It.
The crank sensor is located on the bottom of the timing cover under the right hand side of the water pump by the crankshaft pulley.
The 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0 liter engine crank sensor is located on the back of the crank. You will need to remove the rear engine cover in order to view the crank sensor.
3.0 Liter six Cly Plymouth1 -remove passenger side tire2 -remove black rectangular plastic cover3 -take the bolt out of the harmonic balancer and pull off4 -un-bolt the a/c compressor and hang it in place with a bungee cord5 -put jack under the engine to hold in place and remove the right side motor mount from inter fender6 -take the 3 bolts out of the idler pulley & remove7 -take the 5 bolts out of the motor mount attached to the engine & remove8 -un-bolt the plastic cover that covers the crank and cam pulleys (gears)9 -turn the tensioner pulley that holds the timing gear in place10-take off the timing belt11-remove the cam pulleys - seals are located behind pulley (gears)12-remover the crank pulley (gear) - crank seal is located behind
The Chevrolet Corsica 3.1 liter engine crank sensor can be found on the back of the engine. You will need to remove the rear engine cover in order to access the crank sensor.
First, Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery. Then remove the A/C belt. Next remove the serpentine belt. Then remove the idler pulley using a 15mm closed end wrench. Next, remove the bolt securing the tension-er pulley and remove the pulley from the spring base. Next, remove the alternator. Once the alternator is removed you have access to get to the 15mm nut securing the tension-er pulley assembly. Remove the nut and then the spring base. Go in reverse for the assembly.
It should be behind the starter, Have to remove starter to see it.
The crank position sensor is located by the crank shaft on a ford 350 xl 5.8 liter.
You can find the crank sensor on the back of your 1993 3.4 liter engine. You will need to remove the rear engine cover in order to access the crankshaft sensor.
The pulley is pressed fit onto the pump. It will not come off the pump. You have to replace the pump to replace it.
1.8 Liter in an American 1998 Accord??? Not likely as that engine was not installed in the 1998. The 4 cylinder was a 2.3 liter and the V6 was a 3.0 liter. Click the link and pick the correct engine in your Accord.
The crankshaft sensor is located at the bottom of the engine timing chain cover. Use the owner's manual in case you need help.
The 1988 Buick Skylark 2.3 liter engine serpentine belt tensioner pulley is held in place with a single retaining bolt. The retaining bolt will be in the center of the pulley. Remove the retaining bolt.