I just did this job & visited the dealer. It's not the crank pulley. The mechanic was very helpful & printed out the info. w/pictures. Chilton & Hayes books have lousy pictures of this job. The water pump is on the pulley which appears to be an idler pulley. Most of the work have to be done from underneath the car. The mechanics have a name for it, TJMF.(the Japanese mother f..) The pictures shown are looking up from below, but they don't tell you this.
You just follow the instructions in the book, once you located the pump. Actually this is on my local free library auto service site. Access is with library card No. The same info. is in the books.
The pump has on the discharge side a pipe w/a round seal or oring on it. You need to replace this & put silicone sealer on it. The Japanese have this weird part, called intake manifold stayput which keeps the pipe in place at the other end. In my case there were 3 bolts instead of the 2 the book mentioned. I've removed them & this plate. I've removed the 3 hold down bolts from the pump. Now I could wiggle the pump, so the pipe would separate. Replaced the oring w/sealer. The suction side of the pump was metal to metal flat w/a groove on the pump side. I saw no oring, because this is less pressure. I scraped it clean & put silicone sealer on it & replaced the pump. Made sure the discharge pipe fits in & had to play with it. It worked & put everything back.
there are no marks on the gears the back of the camshafts have a notch in them. If you will need to set the cams take the valve cover off. The intake cam (fire wall side or left if at front of motor) point the first 2 lobes at the fire wall take a small wrench and put i in the notch to hold the cam still. this cam is set The exhaust cam (front of car or right if at front of motor) point the first 2 lobes to the front of the car place another wrench in the notch. this cam is set Now The Crank take the crank pulley off point the keeper key right at 12 o clock of the motor ( the motor is slightly slanted) this should be tdc. remove the wrenches put valve cover on and crank pulley To put your belt on loosen the tensoner pulley remove the top idler pulley (under the exhaust cam) slide the belt on the cams. Put the pulley back on then remove the wrenches put valve cover on and the crank pulley. Put the serpentine belt on and you my friend are ready to go.
2001 chevy cavalier 2.2L VIN-4 If chain broke or jumped: Remove right front tire and fender skirt. Remove serpentine belt and belt tensioner. Remove crank pulley and pull off pulley mount from crank. Remove the 10 mm bolts around timing chain cover remove two bottom studs on cover that pass threw oil pan use the two nuts on them as jam nuts on the studs. Studs must be removed. Carefully pry off cover. Remove cam shaft pulley remove chain, reinstall pulley(without chain) and turn cam shaft until cam shaft mark points to center of tensioner bracket. (I removed valve cover to make sure the two push rods for #1 cyl.were relaxed (They turned with two fingers). Turn crank place #1 cyl. t.d.c with crank. timing mark pointing @ center of the chain tensioner bracket.The mark is on the crank pulley a small circle on the gear, the keyway for the gear will be at the 12 o'clock posisition. Remove cam pulley again place new chain over crank gear while sliding cam pulley back on. Tighten cam pulley insure both gear marks still are aligned with bracket center and each other .Connect battery Test run for 5 sec. with covers off.Disconnect battery when engine starts and sounds normal. Now put everything back together.Go to http://www.jasperengines.com/pdf/GM2.2TimingTB.pdf to see timing marks and alignment.
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