pull back the shifter boot there are 2 screws behind it. there are 2 screws behind the cup holder. once removed the stereo bezel will come out and you should see the radio mounting screws good luck
Addendum by new user:
I just did this last week. It was not "hard", but took me about 7 hours. It was my first attempt at installing a stereo by myself, so I think that's pretty good. Once I figured out that you have to use a very short Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws from the ashtray holder, I thought it would be smooth, but I was wrong. I ended up with the A/C blower unit sitting on my dashboard and loose screws all over the place. Unlike what the previous contributor said, there are no less than 10 screws involved.
The main problems stemmed from the fact that the wiring harness from the original installation did not match my new unit. The new unit had a wiring harness with 12 wires, but the original had 14. This meant that I had to figure out which of the "extra" original wires were essential. I did not need the wire for the antenna motor on the new unit, so that one was easy, leaving three to match with the old setup. The details are unimportant, so don't worry if you're confused here.
Another issue was that the Chilton manual I have was useless in indicating the wire colors for the speakers (and all the other connections for that matter), so I had to take off all four door panels to determine pos and negs for all of them. The rear wires were easily identified with "+" and "-" marked right on the connector, but the front speakers run through a clip and come out both red with no stripes, so I was not able to map them. Luckily, they were paired nicely in the harness, so once I figured out the locations of the pos and neg of the rears, the fronts lined up the same (neg on the top row and pos on the bottom). (I have the wire harness positions figured out, so if anyone wants them, justme).
***Here are the wire positions for those who need them. The color before the slash is the main color, while the color after the slash is the stripe. (There are several free wiring diagrams on the, and most of them are wrong. All the info you need is on this site: http://ae64.com/.)
Right Front Speaker+ Red/Yellow
Left Front Speaker+ Brown/White
Right Rear Speaker+ Blue/Yellow
Left Rear Speaker+ White/Red
+12 Volt Constant Memory+ Blue/Red
Dimmer (Illumination-) Yellow/Blue
Right Front Speaker- White/Black
Left Front Speaker- Green
+12 Volt Accessory Yellow
Right Rear Speaker- Red/White
Left Rear Speaker- Red/Black
Power Antenna Green/Orange***
Lastly, the body of my new unit was too wide for the console faceplate. I also figured out that once you remove the faceplate, it does not want to go back in. Between the lighter component being very long and the tab along the bottom (the one that fits between your shifter console and the vertical center console), it just makes things difficult.
To solve both of these issues, I used a strong utility knife to completely remove the entire bottom tab (I figured that the ashtray screws will hold it well enough that it's not going to flop around anyway). I also carefully marked out the space that would be needed to feed the stereo unit in from the front of the console and trimmed the opening.
It was about 1/8" too wide, so I took off about 1/16" from both sides, only about 3" long from the top to accommodate the body of the unit. If you have to do this, cut slowly and lightly with many passes. If you get too impatient or use too much strength, you can overshoot your endpoints and damage the faceplate.
Since the stereo is a little wider than the original, I had some trouble getting it into the metal frame that also holds the little junk tray beneath the unit. To solve this, I fed it in straight with the left side going nicely into the frame, and used a screwdriver from above to widen the top a little so the right side could also slide in. Make sure you connect all your wires through the faceplate first, you will not be able to get to them once the unit is in place (but you probably already know this).
The installation - finally - was beautifully done and the new unit works perfectly with one caveat: since I had no wiring diagram, I guessed wrong on one of the wires, so my stereo is not connected to the car's battery. So every time I turn off the car, the unit loses all my settings - clock, radio presets, equilizer preferences, etc. If anyone knows which wire is the missing link, please tell me. I only have two options to chose from, but I would rather not have to keep guessing at this.
*****Regarding your positive wire problem where you lose your settings every time, I had the exact same problem with my '97 Legacy--I pulled out the stereo, got out my $10 multimeter (set to DC volts) and connected my -ve probe to the frame inside the dash and my +ve probe to each loose wire coming out from inside the dash until I found one that gave me a 12V difference (make sure your ignition is OFF, not on "accessory").I had previously assumed this wire went to one of the back corner speakers since it's the same gauge as all the other speaker wires, but I connected this THIN BLUE WIRE WITH A RED STRIPE to my stereo's full-time +ve wire and my memory problems were resolved!Your car has accessory +ve wires and full-time -ve wires, you can imagine which ones work at which ignition settings. Some stereos have two positive wires; one for full time +ve and the other for accessory +ve. In the '97 Legacy, you might be surprised that even the cigarette lighter +ve wire is connected to an accessory circuit (I checked that one too).Hope this helps.*****
Next time I install, I will also make sure to use a magnetized screwdriver - lost about 4 screws down the back of the panel!
Have fun and make sure you have a good flashlight and perhaps a helper. I got a crick in my neck trying to hold the light while using both hands to do the wiring.
Remove the retaining cover from your factory stereo. Remove the factory stereo retaining bolts. Slide the factory stereo out. Remove the wiring harness and the antenna cable from the back of the factory stereo.
Remove the 2002 Dodge Durango factory stereo decorative cover. Remove the factory stereo retaining screws. Pull the factory stereo out. Remove the wiring harness and the antenna cable from the back of the stereo.
Here is a step by step tutorial for a 2004 Forester.Just copy the link below.http://www.computerizedmachining.com/remove-stereo-2004-Subaru-Forester.htmlThat site will help anyone remove the factory stereo from a 2004 Subaru Forester. This site has Photos and written instructions to make sure you can get the job done right. This site also has NO ADs, No Registration required.
How to remove factory stereo from 2001 honda civic?
Previously answered: www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/bcstereo/
To remove the factory stereo on 1996 dodge ram 1500 you need to pop the hood on the Ram and remove the ashtray. Slide the stereo out of the dash and unplug the cables from the back of the stereo.
Remove the decorative stereo retaining cover. Remove the stereo retaining screws. Slide the stereo out and remove the wiring harness and the antenna cable.
Cd changer to factory stereo SubaruThey have unit at circuit city ect that you tune your FM radio to a certain frequency and play changer through stock head unit.You have a corded remote to run the unit I personally like these type units myself the prices are very reasonable look at walmart as well
try web site www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/bcstereo/
there is definitley a 1997 model forester - i have one myself!!! im about to rembove my stereo aswell so if i find anything out il let you know..... do you know the factory speaker sizes by any chance?
Follow the link below. Its a step by step on how to do this.
You need to remove the wiring harness of the stereo and pull it out. It is fairly easy to replace this with something more advanced.
you have to remove the front console. take out the ash trey. and remove all the screws around the trim of the area of the stereo and then slid the stereo out and un hook all connections. if you get a new stereo it should have more detailed instructions
go to0 a stereo shop and buy one and have it installed go to0 a stereo shop and buy one and have it installed
put the parking brake in, then put the truck in 1st gear pop the dash cover off and then remove bolts from stereo.
How do you remove factory radio in a 1992 Subaru Legacy?" I just finished replacing my wifes stereo and it's a pain! First you have to remove the center console from the front section. -use a screwdriver to release the snap cover then remove screws holding down the rear of the cover. on the front SIDES pry the 2 screw cover plates off and remove screws (1 on each side) now remove front cover. Next remove ashtray and slide. -slide ashtray out of the slide then remove the 2 screws holding up the outer edge (you need a stubby Phillips for this) they are located on the bottom of the plate. loosen but DON'T remove the screw in the back (I still haven't got mine back in yet!!) now lift on the back and the slotted hole in the back will slide free, let it lay where it is. -Next slide out the cup holder and remove the 2 screws 1 on each side. now pull off the cover ring. now remove the 6 screws holding the stereo mounting bracket in place.(4 on the outside, 2 hidden on the sides IN THE HOLES! Slide out the stereo mount and unplug the antenna, speaker and power connecters. I will write up the wiring connections later. Any questions email me at Blackhelm36@AOL.com with "SUBARU STEREO" in the subject line. GOOD LUCK, Andy
you must first detatch all wires
view website www.cdplayerrepair.com/remtips/vigor_rem.htm
TAke off the panel that surrongs the stereo - then you'll see 4 bolts/screws holding the stereo once these are removed stereo slides out easily.
To remove a stock stereo, you will first need to remove the bezel from the stereo. Then, pull the stereo out of the dashboard and remove the wiring harness.
To remove the factory radio from a 1986 Jaguar XJS, remove all climate control knobs from the dashboard and remove the rings that surround the climate control knobs. Pull away the plastic that surrounds the stereo head unit and unscrew the four screws on either side of the stereo head.
is there 2 holes on each side of the radio : : like that
No you don't have to remove the dash, there are four little holes on the face of the factory stereo which require a removal tool this tool can be purchased at the Ford dealer for a resonable price, after you insert the tools (one on each side) than you will be able to pull the stereo out.
I just removed my stereo today and installed an aftermarket unit. Use this link for how to remove your factory head unit. http://www.fitaudio.com/?View=entry&EntryID=162