It is an involved procedure. Get a manual on your car from the parts store or AUTOBOOKSONLINECOM
This is no fun I am doing this as I am writting today.
First you have to remove the dash. There are various 10mm bolts and Philips head screws.
There are wiring clips on the radio, the headlight switch (there is a button in the rear of the headlight switch to remove the switch rod)and on the gauge panel for easy removal.
Edit: Remove the passenger side seat and it will be much easier to remove the 'dog house' / engine cover. You will also have an easier time getting access to everything. This is also an excellent time to do that tune up you've been putting off as the engine will be easily accessible for plugs, wires etc. When I replaced my heater core I did not have to entirely remove the dash - it can be held up & out of the way with bungie cords. If at all possible, replace the heater core with a COPPER unit (hard to find) rather than the aluminum cores. If you have voltage leakage in the system, it will cause a dielectric reaction & eat up the new core in time. (Yes - voltage leakage! Test w/ a digital voltage meter from battery ground to the antifreeze in the radiator neck. Should read 0.01 or less on low dc voltage scale. Higher indicates a probable bad ground on a component somewhere which is finding a path to ground through the coolant.) /Edit
Edit: In my work van - I took a dremel tool with a cutting disc and cut along the "seam" on the passenger side of the dash. This eliminated any need to pull anything on the driverside dash and turns this into an hour job once the cut is made. Keep in mind - this was done in a work van but it does not look horrible if you take your time. A conversion, or "dressy" van owner might not favor this solution but for those of us with work, utility vans... it's a no brainer - do it! There is actually a faux "seam" cast into the dash plastic where that part of the dash may have been intended to be removable( until it was discovered how easy it makes heater core repairs). If you do this - there are only a few screws to remove & then you can access the heater core a LOT easier. /Edit
Then I would suggest you remove the internal engine cover for easier access. That takes a 1/2in. socket. There are 2 hoses to the left side of the engine bay. You can see those clearly if you remove the air intake rubber duct. The upper hose has the heater control valve on it and the lower one is a return line. These will need a flat head screwdriver or a 10 mm socket to remove the hose clamps.
I am right now trying to remove all the corresponding duct work to free up the heatercore box.
I removed all the duct work, then I found that there are a few bolts that go through the firewall to the a/c box on the engine compartment side. remove the 3 nuts and there is one bolt on the inside right hand side. There is a bracket that holds the dashboard bottom remove that also with 1/2in or 13mm.
Finally the heater box can be removed. you need a 1/4 in socket to split the heater box. there are like 15 little bolts for this. once the box is split you will finally see if the heater core is bad.
I started at this point to split all the duct work in half and clean it with bleach. Once that was done I replaced everything.
work slow if you rush disasters with wiring and vaccum hoses can occur.
thanks for reading
Can you send me a picture as I had a mechanic do my core, and you guessed it, I get no heat..As my upper hose has no control valve on it, it comes right from the radiator to the core, thanks for your help.My eail is tparku@AOL.com..
Edit: Be sure the correct hose is fed to the correct heater core port - they are two different sizes on mine so it should not be easy to mix them up but someone with an ambitious nature may have forced the 5/8" hose onto the 3/4" port. A mechanic I spoke to some years back (who observed me doing my first core replacement) mentioned that if the hoses were swapped the heater would not put out nearly as much heat. /Edit
Remove the water supply lines from your 1990 Ford E3 50 heater core. Remove the heater core retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install your new heater core.
The outlet from the 350 engine to feed the heater core would be the one closest to the thermostat.
Drain the radiator..Disconnect the heater water hoses from the heater core.Disengage the stops and lower the glove compartment door.Remove the electronic blend door actuator and bracket assembly.Remove the screws.Remove the heater core cover.Remove the heater core.Follow the removal procedure in reverse order......
It is on the passenger side, you have to remove the dashboard.
One goes from the heater core to the water pump, the other goes from the heater core to the intake manifold.
how do I change the heater blower on a f350 2002
hi my ford f350 heater blower wont run.was trunning then stopped. Where is it located
In my experience the heater core is by the passenger seat. There is a web site that may be able to help you out more. http://www.l81vetteregistry.com/tech/ Let me know if this helped you out.
No there is no freon in the heater core just antifreeze. The heater core is nothing more than a tiny radiator.
That is called a heater control valve. When you are not using your heater, vaccume closes a small valve that's in the control valve and stopes the water from going through the heater core. Therefore you get no heat inside of the cab.
First thing is to drain the coolant. Their are two hoses that go to the heater core at the firewall. They can be difficult to remove so be ready to break at least one or both when doing the job. Go inside the cab and drop down the glove box and remove the cover their and a series of 8mm bolts to be removed. Once that is removed you can see the core. Now you will need to remove the blend door accuator It is located above the heater core. It will have a electrical connector and three bolts holding it down. You can remove two of them and slide it out because they are kinda blind (you can't really see them but feel them) once you get it out you can see how it goes back in. Basically you can install the bolts to the air box and then slide and "click" the actuator back into place. Now with that out of the way you can remove the heater core. Do everything in reverse and fill with coolant.
They usaually fog up the inside of the windshield when defrost is used, soak the pass side floor with coolant and smell of anti freeze when operating heater in any mode.
There's a bunch, thermostat housing, intake, water pump, heater core, any of the hoses leading to your heater core or radiator, and it could even be one of your temp sensors.
It will cost approximately $350 to replace your 1987 Acura Legend heater core. The heater core will cost approximately $50. It will take approximately 5 hours of labor to complete the job.
5/8" and 3/4"
Your local auto parts store has replacement ends for that. They also have the tools to help you remove the fitting from the heater inlet/outlet tube.
if its a 350 remove alt. first
take out the cylinder head bolts
The heater valve is in line in the heater hose from the top back of the 350 engine about half way to where it enters the firewall to connect to the heater core. The valve has a steel wire control cable connected to the top of the valve control lever. It has two hose connections, one in from the engine and one out to the firewall core entry point. Trace your heater hoses and look for the metal valve with the spiral covered control wire.
You remove the bottom panel of the heater box under the passenger side dash. It is about 6 or 7 screws. Once the panel is off you will see the heater core. It has a clip at the top you loosen. You must remove the 2 hose clamps in the engine compartment before it will come out. The new ones usually do not come with the foam padding on top of the core. Use some RTV or spray glue and carefully pull it off of the old one, and put on the new.
In a 1988-1994 Chevy/GMC truck, replacing the heater core involves disconnecting the coolant hoses at the lower passenger side of the firewall from the engine compartment. Then remove the bottom cover off of the vent system on the passenger side (this will be directly above and slightly to the left of the passengers feet if they were sitting in the truck). There are at least 4 screws (possibly more) that secure this cover; be sure and remove all of these screws before trying to take it off. With the cover off, you will see the heater core directly above the cover. There is one retaining clip that is screwed into the ducting towards the top of the heater core. Putting everything back together is as simple as reversing these steps. Be sure to top off your coolant after you're done (while running, you'll need to clear the air out of the coolant system).
remove the enigine and then take out flywheel bolts
the heater core is located on the passenger side of the vehicle below where you would normally find the glove box. it is inside the black plastic shroud or cover that is mounted to the fire wall. there is also a small motor that opens and closes a flap that directs cold or warm air to the various vents in the cabin. the hearter core hoses must be disconnected at the firewall (engine side). it's quite laborious to remove.
Remove the cylinder head from your 1992 Chevy 350 cubic inch engine. Remove the head gasket and clean the surface. Put the new head gasket on and reverse the process.
remove the glovebox you will then see a black box that has a cover that is held on by 10mm head screws take that off. then go under the hood to the passenger side the two hoses that come out of th firewall are the heater core in and out lines take the hose clamps off. Go back into cab pull old heater core straight back and its out. go in reverse order to install new