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After you remove all of the screws you can find, there are plastic clips all around the door which you need to pull out. It takes a "J" shaped tool with a "V" in the end to get under the clips and pull them out. They are pretty tough. Don't just pull on the pannel as you will destroy the it.

On my 1993 the window motor would torque down too far, and the brushes would come off of the armature. Replace the motor, or carefully disassemble and reassemble. The later allows window useage as long as you don't roll the window down all the way again.

I've posted this on other car repair sites. This is my recollection of changing my power windows on my 97 SE. Good luck!

I started by taping the window to the window frame using packing tape. I have tinted windows so I put the tape on the outside of the window and over the doorframe. Put something between the tape and the rubber trim, the tape will leave residue on that. Then loosen the two bolts that hold the window to the regulator. Disconnect the wire harness at the top of the motor. Then drill out the four big rivets, starting with a 1/8 inch then 1/4 inch bits. I used Craftsman Zirconium Nitride Coated Drill Bits. Go slow and shoot a little WD-40 to help, it takes a while to get them out. When the last rivet falls out, the regulator will collapse so mind your fingers. Try not to make the actual hole in the metal any bigger that it already is. Then remove the two bolts that go to the bottom of the regulator. The whole assembly will now slide out one of the big holes in the sheet metal, and no, you don't need to cut any metal. You can buy the motor with a new regulator already assembled, or just the motor. I got just the motor on eBay for $40. There are cheaper ones but I wanted a good one. If you just get the motor, you'll have a little more work. Drill out the four rivets holding it on to the regulator. You can either rivet the new one on or just use four small machine screws, that's what I did. It won't hurt to put a little grease in the tracks now either. Slide the whole assembly back in and attach the two bottom bolts then the two that hold the window to the regulator. Attach the wire harness and power the motor back and forth until one of the holes that you removed the rivets from is in alignment with the holes in the new motor. Now the tough part, getting the fat little bolts in those holes and getting a nut on it. I think I used 1/4 X 3/4 inch bolts. I got them at Home Depot. If you want to spend the money, you can get the big rivets and a big rivet gun, but I didn't think it was worth it. I've had the one window in for over a year with just the 3 bolts and it's holding fine. You can only access 3 holes in the motor if you're using bolts to attach it. If while drilling out the rivets you made the holes bigger, you may need to use a washer. Get one in, then power the motor a little at a time until the other holes are lined up and get at least three bolts in. Get them as tight as you can using locking nuts. Try putting the bolt in from either direction to see which way works best. The first time I did this, it took me over 4 hours. The second window, 90 minutes. Now you can go through the drive thru again.

smokingallowed say's...make sure it is the motor and not the switch...If the motor works going down, it should work going up...think about it....plastic parts inside the switch melt.

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โˆ™ 2015-07-15 21:46:13
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Q: How do you remove the inside door panel to repair a window that will roll down but not up in a 1997 Grand Am SE?
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