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I have a 1993 Chevy Suburban K2500 4 wheel drive, 8600 GVW with the 454 engine. I have the Haynes manual that did not show correctly how to remove them. The manual does correctly state to remove the plastic center hubcap, then loosen the center nut while the wheel is still attached and on the ground. It is torqued on at 173 foot pounds (according to Haynes manual) so a 1/2 or 3/4 (preferably the 3/4) inch breaker bar with a 1 and 3/8 inch socket is needed to loosen the nut. Once you have the truck raised and on at least a 3 ton jack stand (DO NOT RELY ON THE FACTORY SICCOR JACK OR A HYDRALIC JACK TO KEEP THE HEAVY TRUCK SAFELY JACKED) (and the rest of the wheels blocked to prevent the vehicle from moving, use LARGE blocks and have the parking break on), remove the wheel and remove the nut. There are four bolts approximately 3 inches long with 15mm heads (they are fine thread M-14 bolts) located on the back of the rotor. They are torqued down with about 120 to 130 foot-pounds of torque (no specs in the book, this is based on the chart provided in the book related to the size of the bolts and the amount of effort needed to remove them). I would highly recommend using a thin wall impact socket with a half inch drive breaker bar to remove them if you have anti lock breaks as the large CV joint with the anti-lock break rotor is right up next to the head of the bolts. Once you have the bolts loosened, you should be able to remove the rotors by hand. If not, use a puller with the arms attached to the ridge just above the studs to pull it off, it should come off with easy turns of the puller bolt. I have a 1993 Chevy Suburban K2500 4 wheel drive, 8600 GVW with the 454 engine. I have the Haynes manual that did not show correctly how to remove them. The manual does correctly state to remove the plastic center hubcap, then loosen the center nut while the wheel is still attached and on the ground. It is torqued on at 173 foot pounds (according to Haynes manual) so a 1/2 or 3/4 (preferably the 3/4) inch breaker bar with a 1 and 3/8 inch socket is needed to loosen the nut. Once you have the truck raised and on at least a 3 ton jack stand (DO NOT RELY ON THE FACTORY SICCOR JACK OR A HYDRALIC JACK TO KEEP THE HEAVY TRUCK SAFELY JACKED) (and the rest of the wheels blocked to prevent the vehicle from moving, use LARGE blocks and have the parking break on), remove the wheel and remove the nut. There are four bolts approximately 3 inches long with 15mm heads (they are fine thread M-14 bolts) located on the back of the rotor. They are torqued down with about 120 to 130 foot-pounds of torque (no specs in the book, this is based on the chart provided in the book related to the size of the bolts and the amount of effort needed to remove them). I would highly recommend using a thin wall impact socket with a half inch drive breaker bar to remove them if you have anti lock breaks as the large CV joint with the anti-lock break rotor is right up next to the head of the bolts. Once you have the bolts loosened, you should be able to remove the rotors by hand. If not, use a puller with the arms attached to the ridge just above the studs to pull it off, it should come off with easy turns of the puller bolt.

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โˆ™ 2006-09-17 00:14:19
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Q: How do you remove the rotors from a 92 Chevy 4x4 K2500 pickup?
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