You might try disolving 3 tablespoons of baking soda in a bucket of warm water; lightly sponge on vehicle , rinse then wash. be sure to towel dry to avoid new spotting. If spots have already etched into finish this will not remove them
A rag with some Goof Off on it will remove any tape adhesive without damaging your paint. -I've tried it on 3 different popular cars, it works.
Mixing clearcoat with paint, will ruin the paint.For enamel paints, make sure you use an enamel clearcoat. You should allow the paint to fully cure (at least a week) before attempting to apply the clearcoat. Never use a lacquer based clearcoat on an enamel based paint. It will ruin it.For lacquer based paint, you should only use a lacquer based clearcoat. The paint should be dry, but does not have to be fully cured, since the lacquer will wet the coat of paint below it anyway.
Clearcoat.
Goof Off is excellent for this. I've tried it on 3 different cars from GM, Ford and Chrysler. It takes the glue or spray paint particles off without damaging the original paint. After using it for this, I would recommend waxing that least that portion of the car.
With great difficulty!
If I wanted any clearcoat to make a paint shinier, I'd use a Krylon spray gloss varnish. Most oil based gloss paints are so hard and shiny they really don't need a clearcoat.
No. But you should be able to scrape it off.
No, car wax has not become obsolete in the view of new technology. Let's look at the situation a bit more closely. Paint can oxidize and is affected by the elements. Though paints (called coatings by the industry) are improved constantly, there is still no paint that will not be attacked (however slowly) by weather and the other assaults on automotive finishes. Even a clearcoat is just another layer of paint. It is not a wax or sealant. Clearcoat dries out and oxidizes the same as paint, but more quickly. The idea of using clearcoat is to give the elements something else to attack other than the paint. Wax is applied for the same reason; the outer layer of wax takes the beating rather than clearcoat (if used) or the paint itself. Certainly wax will not last nearly as long a clearcoat, so it must be reapplied to be effective. And the clearcoat is not as resistant to oxidation as the paint, so it will "wear out" eventually and have to be reapplied to protect paint.
scrape it with a razor blade...assuming the tile is untextured porcelain
I use the hardest paint I can find and almost always finish coat it with a really good clearcoat.
Yes, I have successfully used acrylic paints on plastics without damaging them. Yes, I have used acrylic paints on plastics without damaging them.
No. If you want to remove it without damaging the plastic, soak it in car brake fluid for a few days depending on thickness. Clean with dish soap and water and viola. . .
wipe off with laquer thinner
That can be tricky. Rubbing alcohol can do it, but you need to be careful not to take off the paint. And if the ink has penetrated into the plastic, you may not be able to remove it without damaging the finish.
you cant you have to let it wear off
Yes, you can, but you should also cover it with a clearcoat to protect against abrasion by beach sand.
Yes, but it will be much better if you spray it with an auto primer first, and a good clearcoat after your colour. Krylon makes excellent hard clearcoat sprays, available in Walmart.
If the white paint is well-bonded to the surface, and the red is very fresh, a lot of times you can use a sharp razor blade to peel the red paint off the white. If the red is stuck on there, I would use a sanding block to remove as much red paint as I could without damaging much of the white paint, then put a coat of white paint over the area. Next time, get a newspaper and tape it to the white walls to protect the building.
Oil paint will soak into bricks, therefore it is impossible to remove without degrading the brick.
no you do not sand when using acrylic, nor should you have to clearcoat.
you dont mix it in the paint. you put on a base coat . then spray the flake on in a clearcoat. about 25grams per liter of mixed clearcoat. spay as much for required for efect. then spray abut 6-10 more coats of clear on top to give gloss and cover flakes. easy. not. you dont mix it in the paint. you put on a base coat . then spray the flake on in a clearcoat. about 25grams per liter of mixed clearcoat. spay as much for required for efect. then spray abut 6-10 more coats of clear on top to give gloss and cover flakes. easy. not.
A methylated spirit or turps would get rid of it, but you might remove the design on it. Even so, i don't think there's much you can do or you can try nail polish remove that gets a fair few things off
you can buy paint that the brushes can be washed out with water.
It can be rather difficult to remove silicone calk from painted wood. The good news is that the paint will largely prevent the calk from having seeped into the wood itself. The bad news is that it will be tough to remove it without damaging the paint. Peel off as much as of the calk as possible with either a knife or manually. Then take an abrasive green dish pad and hot water to the rest. Alternatively, paint thinner will remove it quickly but will require repainting.
You can remove paint from a cast iron table without degrading the value by using a special paint remover. It can be done relatively easily.