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Jack up the front of the truck and support it on stands.

  1. Remove the front wheels and then the brake calipers and pads.
  2. Remove the bearing cap in the center of the hub. This will give access to the bearings.
  3. You will see a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin and the retaining cap that covers the nut.
  4. Remove the nut, and thrust washer, and outer wheel bearing. Rocking the hub from side-to-side will help to assist in getting the bearing and thrust washer to slide off the spindle shaft.
  5. Slide the hub/rotor off of the spindle and lay it face down.
  6. Remove the grease seal off the back side of the hub and discard. This will give access to the inner wheel bearing.

Now that you have the wheel bearings out, use solvent to clean the bearings and everything else that was removed from the inside of the hub. Also make sure that you clean the inside of the bearing cap and the inside of the hub as well as the spindle shaft.

Use a good quality wheel bearing grease - don't cheap out here. Place the inner bearing in the palm of your hand and start applying grease to the bearing. Heap up grease on both edges of the bearing and clasp your hands together to force the grease into the bearing. Repeat this process until you see grease squeezing out of the individual bearings themselves. Repeat the process for the outer bearing. You have now successfully packed your bearings with grease.

  1. Now start with the back side of the rotor and apply a liberal coating of grease on the inside of the hub and around the bearing race and all around the bearing too.
  2. Install the inner bearing back in place inside of the race.
  3. Install a brand new grease seal and make sure it is seated flush.
  4. Slather some more grease inside between the bearing and the seal. Also be sure to lubricate the rubber on the seal with some grease.
  5. Apply some grease on the spindle and slide the rotor back into place taking care not to damage the seal on the spindle threads. Give a little push on the rotor to seat the seal on the spindle.
  6. Apply more grease to the outer race on the inside of the hub.
  7. Apply more grease to the outer bearing and slide it into place.
  8. Install thrust washer and the retaining nut. Tighten the nut until the rotor has no slop. Turn the rotor to make sure it spins freely. Tighten the nut a quarter turn and spin the rotor again to make sure it spins free. Repeat this until you just start to feel resistance in the rotor then back the nut off a quarter turn. Check the rotor again to make sure it is free. Also wiggle the rotor to see if there is any side-to-side play.
  9. Place the retaining cap back on the nut and line up the slots with the hole in the spindle shaft.
  10. Install a new cotter pin and wrap the end around the shaft with a pair of pliers.

Make sure to apply some more grease around the bearing. I like to put some extra grease inside of the bearing cap in case you need to make a repair on the road somewhere. That way you have the same grease you used on hand. Lightly tap the bearing cap back into place until flush. Reinstall your calipers and brake pads and repeat the process for the other side.

It's a good practice that if you replace the wheel bearings on one side of the axle to also replace the bearings on the other side. Wheel bearings are relatively inexpensive as compared to having one fail and the aftermath that is left behind.

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โˆ™ 2010-05-16 05:48:30
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Q: How do you repack and tighten front wheel bearings on a 1993 F250?
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