Could be: corroded throttle cable, (sticking). Replace.
Could be: defective throttle cable. Replace.
Or, could be: broken, loose and/or defective throttle return spring. Make sure the anchor point of spring is in place. The sping is located on the throttle body itself (coiled type) and must not spin around, but be held in place at one end.
Maybe it's a problem with the throttle plate sticking in the bore of the throttle body. Tricky fix. Probably best to remove and renew the componet, otherwise the problem, that is if this is the problem, might come back. Remove the air-intake snorkle and visually inspect that the throttle plate opens and closes with no indication of binding whatsoever. Ah, do this with the engine off. Open the plate all the way and rub your finger on the bore of the throat. It must be smooth, with no ridge nor pits, scratches and what not.
Could be: idle air control motor needs cleaning or replacemnet. Possibly sticking open, but I doubt it.
If the engine is suffering from a vacuum leak, this could be the reason for a fast idle. From your description of the complant I would say that said leak would have to be of considerable size. Check brake booster line. PCV hose.
Could be: linkage under dash to gas pedal. Binding? Bent? How's the throttle cable look going through the firewall?
During normal operation, with no problems, the car's computer will increase the engine idle speed during cold starts to allow for faster warm-ups. I'm not sure, but I think this is a timed event, programed to last less than 60 seconds by the engine management computer. Or by Coolant Temp. Sensor (CTS) readings. Service Engine light on? Check for trouble codes. If the CTS is defective the engine will remain in Open Loop and possibly not stabalize to a normal idle rpm. When you do start it up cold, does it idle fast then drop? If the above mentioned possible reasons have been exhausted, explore engine management systems, i.e. defective computer. Probably not though.
Cold be: defect in the mechanical aspects of the cruise control. Linkage, cable, chains. Vacuum motor binding. May not be allowing the throttle to close properly.
c ya: grade a da mopar man!
MAYBE IT'S THE TROTTLE POSITION SENSOR.
a sticking cable at throttle body or a idle air control sensor. check to make sure throttle, is not sticking at throttle plate.
On my 1994 Mazda Navajo, which should be the same as an Explorer, their is a black plastic cover with 3 bolts on top of the engine. When you remove the cover the throttle and cruise control cables attach to the throttle lever there. My throttle is sticking but the problem seems to be where the cable attaches to the pedal.
Either the throttle plate is sticking or the idle air control is not responding to ecm signal.
could be: sticking throttle linkage, idle air control malfunction, or in emission system.
P1128 TOYOTA - Throttle Control Motor Lock MalfunctionPossible causes, Faulty Throttle Control Motor,Throttle Control Motor harness is open or shorted,Throttle Control Motor circuit poor electrical connection
A possibility is that the idle air throttle control is probably sticking. It is on top of the throttle body. I recommend replacement, this should fix your problem. Your question raises more questions: What do you mean by 'kick down'? Are you talking about the Transmission not kicking down? If so.. probable problem is the Throttle Position Sensor on the opposite side of the throttle bellcrank. Otherwise, if you are meaning the rpm wont kick down to normal, then there is a good chance you have a vacuum leak or, as said above, the ISC is gummed up or defective. To check for vacuum leak, disconnect ALL vacuum accesory tubing at the manifold EXCEPT for the Fuel pressure regulator. Plug those manifold ports and try it. Other possibilities are binding throttle cable/ trans cable at the throttle. DO NOT adjUst that throttle stop screw!!!!
It is the indicator for a failure in the electronic throttle control system.It is the indicator for a failure in the electronic throttle control system.
It attaches to throttle plate (next to throttle cable) to cruise control unit.
The throttle position sensor is usually on the throttle body, near where the cables hook on.
You did't provide the year/make/model/engine, but...The throttle cable/ throttle spring can be faulty/sticking. Another possibility is there is an air leak, after the throttle blades that is allowing the engine rpms to be high at idle. You can check vacuum line to the intake manifold for damage or the AIC (air idle control valve) for being stuck open.
The ABS Control Module on a 1990 Ford Thunderbird is in the electronics tray in the trunk. It hangs from the rear speaker deck.
On the throttle body
It is on because the engine computer has detected a malfunction with the electronic throttle control system.
Letting off the throttle control
Usually not much if any. If the idle is high it usually indicates a vacuum leak or possibly the throttle plate is sticking, binding, worn throttle shaft. The idle air control valve controls your idle air as well and it may be dirty, sticking or defective. I would check for any cracks in the vac hoses as well which would cause an unmetered air leak.
It is in the dist.
reset Throttle Control Actuator of Nissan / my scanner g-scan and diagun i can reset with this tools or no
It is the system that actuates the throttle plate electronically. This van does not use a throttle cable.
The computer uses a motor in the throttle body assembly to open the throttle plate. There isn't a separate idle air control motor.The computer uses a motor in the throttle body assembly to open the throttle plate. There isn't a separate idle air control motor.
It is on the throttle body, opposite the cables.
It is mounted near the throttle body to control the air flow past the closed throttle blade at idle.
A Throttle is the fuel control that controls the mixture of fuel and air and the rate of flow into the engine.
The 5.7L Hemi and 5.9L diesel do have electronic throttle.
Relative throttle position is a way of determining where the throttle is in relation to accelerator. Both work in sync to control the amount of acceleration.
Electronic Throttle Control or Electronic Timing Control