Could be: corroded throttle cable, (sticking). Replace.
Could be: defective throttle cable. Replace.
Or, could be: broken, loose and/or defective throttle return spring. Make sure the anchor point of spring is in place. The sping is located on the throttle body itself (coiled type) and must not spin around, but be held in place at one end.
Maybe it's a problem with the throttle plate sticking in the bore of the throttle body. Tricky fix. Probably best to remove and renew the componet, otherwise the problem, that is if this is the problem, might come back. Remove the air-intake snorkle and visually inspect that the throttle plate opens and closes with no indication of binding whatsoever. Ah, do this with the engine off. Open the plate all the way and rub your finger on the bore of the throat. It must be smooth, with no ridge nor pits, scratches and what not.
Could be: idle air control motor needs cleaning or replacemnet. Possibly sticking open, but I doubt it.
If the engine is suffering from a vacuum leak, this could be the reason for a fast idle. From your description of the complant I would say that said leak would have to be of considerable size. Check brake booster line. PCV hose.
Could be: linkage under dash to gas pedal. Binding? Bent? How's the throttle cable look going through the firewall?
During normal operation, with no problems, the car's computer will increase the engine idle speed during cold starts to allow for faster warm-ups. I'm not sure, but I think this is a timed event, programed to last less than 60 seconds by the engine management computer. Or by Coolant Temp. Sensor (CTS) readings. Service Engine light on? Check for trouble codes. If the CTS is defective the engine will remain in Open Loop and possibly not stabalize to a normal idle rpm. When you do start it up cold, does it idle fast then drop? If the above mentioned possible reasons have been exhausted, explore engine management systems, i.e. defective computer. Probably not though.
Cold be: defect in the mechanical aspects of the cruise control. Linkage, cable, chains. Vacuum motor binding. May not be allowing the throttle to close properly.
c ya: grade a da mopar man!
MAYBE IT'S THE TROTTLE POSITION SENSOR.
On my 1994 Mazda Navajo, which should be the same as an Explorer, their is a black plastic cover with 3 bolts on top of the engine. When you remove the cover the throttle and cruise control cables attach to the throttle lever there. My throttle is sticking but the problem seems to be where the cable attaches to the pedal.
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