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Nissan Altima

How do you repair a 2001 Altima GXE intake manifold gasket?

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2015-07-15 21:47:24
2015-07-15 21:47:24

Do not remove the cylinder head. The intake Gaskets can be done in about five hours. It is not an easy repair and I do not recommend trying this repair unless you have above average mechanical skills. It's a lot of nuts and bolts. Mainly 10, 12 and 14 millimeter.

  1. Pull Fuel pump fuse and depresurize fuel system.
  2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  3. Remove air cleaner housing with hoses
  4. Remove all bolts you can access on top of manifold, which are all 10 and 12 millimeter.
  5. Remove EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) tube) 24 mm or 7/8".
  6. From underneath the vehicle remove two 14 mm bolts on right side manifold to block support (black 1/2 diameter, approx. 8 " long) and one 12 mm bolt at starter on left side (air flow meter support bracket).
  7. Now the intake will be in two pieces (Pry the two pieces apart with a wood stick) the lower intake gasket is reusable if your'e careful. Push the lower plenum towards firewall as far as possible, this will leave you just enough room to get all of the lower bolts out with 12mm socket with rachet to remove all the intake to head bolts.
  8. I recommend felpro gasket (under $10.00).

On this particular job reassembly is much quicker than disassembly. The hardest part is finding all the bolts that you need to take off. But under no circumstances should the head be removed for just an intake gasket.

  • ** *** **** this is a bad answer****

I have no idea how but I had mine done today and it was 680.00 through a dealership and 490.00 through a non dealership and the sad part is, the part was only 10.00, it was a seven hour labor job. good luck.

HERE IS A WAY THAT MIGHT WORK

I'm working on mine right now. I've tried everything, but as far as I know you have to take the head off. The intake manifold and intake manifold collector can be taken off after you take the head off.

1) You first need to relieve the fuel pressure by pulling the fuel pump circut braker and then you start the car. This should only take a second or two then your car will die. Now you fuel pressure is relieved.

2) Disconnect the negative cable from you battery.

3) Remove fuel lines from the fuel rail. Vacuum lines. Electric connectors from around the engine head, and throttle cables. Sparkplugs and cables Look around I might of missed a couple of things.

4) Then you need to turn the engine to Top Dead Center. A manual will tell you how to do that. Like a Haynes repair manual.

I'm just guessing what comes next because i havn't gotten that far, but i think you just need to remove the bolts holding the head to the engine. You might need to support the engine after you take some bolts out. a jack underneath the would do the trick.

After the bolts are out you should be able to lift the head intake manifold and intake manifold collector out of the engine compartment as one. Then it is just a matter of finding which bolts hold the intake manifold and intake manifold collector each other and the head.

Scrape of the old gasket put a new gasket on, and reverse the process.

REMEMBER. THERE ARE 2 INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS. AN UPPER AND LOWER MANIFOLD GASKET.

you should get gaskets to replace the intake and head gaskets. Plus any gaskets that might have been removed while you were working on your car.

NEVER REUSE OLD GASKETS. IN A DAY OR TWO YOU WILL BE TEARING APART YOUR CAR BECAUSE YOU HAVE A LEAK SOMEWHERE AND YOU DIDN'T GET NEW GASKETS

Head does not need removal. Un-bolt the intake and push it back far enough to sneak the old gasket out... it should not rip or stick to the head. Inspect that the head is in fact clean, place new gasket in and bolt it back up. It did take me about 6.5 hours never having done it before.

Do thisThe previous guy is right. Do Not remove the head! Tming chain is hell to catch back on a Nissan and it uses two (2). I just did mine last week. I found that the best way is

1. Remove the fuel injector rail by pulling he two 12mm bolts.

strip off anything on top of the intake including the trottle linkage and cable mount. Also remove the pancake looking device connected to the EGR valve by the vacuum hose.

Disconnet the battery terminals

2. From underneath Remove the starter completely. You could leave it under there but remove it from the transmission housing. This will require you pulling out the airfilter box and mass flow sensor and intake hose.

Remove the passenger side axle completely and the axle support housing (3 bolts)

Remove the knock sensor one 12mm bolt

Now you have access to all of the intake's lower 12mm bolts.

The one behind the power steering pump is major hell to get out and to get back in. You will need ratchet wrenches for this job. Dont even try manual wrenches. Get a long reach extension magnet or pickup tool . It will help you with position bolts back into tight spaces. If you have the time remove the power steering pump. It will make the job easier but not necessary.

Pull the curved bar (bracket under neath which bolts the intake to the engine block

You will need a 1/4" drive ratchet and short 1/4" sockets to pull some of the intake's upper 12mm bolts. Nothing else will work. You will notice that the intake to cylinder head bolt-up is done mostly with 12mm bolts , except for the opposite 2 upper corner points which uses a threaded stud and a nut. remove the nuts.

Unscrew the large intake pipe from the intake that comes from the front of the engine with a wrench.

Even though you have all of these bolts and nuts out, it is still difficlut to slide the intake far enough back to slip in the gasket. What you will have to do is use a reversed torque or even a small 5 mm socket and unscrew at least one or both threaded studs from the cylinder head. Trust me they will pull easily. (They use threaded studs to allign the gasket properly) Then using a large prybar pry the intake away from the head and slide the gasket in. Immediately allign one of the upper corner holes and screw back in the threaded stud. Do the same for the next corner.

From here on it is easy. You put all of the bolts back in but be sure to tighten the head from inside out.

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Remove intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve train, and heads. This is a major repair that should only be attempted by a professional.

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Remove the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and then remove the head. Scrap off the old gasket and install a new one. Reinstall the head and Torque the head bolts in the proper sequence. Reinstall the intake and exhaust manifold torque the bolts to the proper torque. This is a major repair and not for a novice to try.

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The intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and head must be removed. This is a major repair that should only be done by someone with the knowledge and skill to perform it correctly.

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Repairing intake gasket not preferred, you can use red silicone to seal it, but to do so, you must remove the intake, in which case, you may as well replace the gasket.

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usually your intake manifold is ok...the manifold gaskets are prone to failure..they are plastic with rubber impregnated seals...if the manifold is actually pitted, you can repair with JB WELD then sand smooth.... ase master certified tech

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Remove the intake and exhaust manifold and then the head. Replace the gasket, have the head inspected for cracks or if is warped and reverse the procedure. This is a major repair that should only be done by someone who is a professional.

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This is a major repair requiring the removal of the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and heads. This repair can only be done by a professional with the proper tools and training. No way can anyone tell you how to do this on a website. If you want to DIY, then purchase a Hayne's Repair Manual for your car.

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This is a major repair requiring the removal of the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and head. This repair can only be done by a professional with the proper tools and training. No way can anyone tell you how to do this on a website. If you want to DIY, then purchase a Hayne's Repair Manual for your car.


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