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Needed: Phillips screw driver, 10mm socket deep, pliers, a paper clip or something sturdy and thin.

Prep: With the car running, de-select the recirculate button on the climate control panel. Shut down the car and remove the negative terminal on the battery.

  1. First, remove the glove box...easy three screws total. Two on the bottom, and one holding the shock on the right side. Open the glove compartment and remove the one screw on the right-hand side holding the shock before removing the two screws on the bottom.
  2. Remove the metal bar that is behind the glove box...four Phillips screws.
  3. Remove the two bolts securing the dash on the right side.
  4. Remove the small RH kick plate...pull hard it has three clips. You can first remove the plastic door jam that goes over the RH kick plate. This will make it easier to move the carpet around.
  5. Remove the two screws on the bottom of the fan housing and remove the bottom diffuser...small plastic piece.
  6. Remove the front center metal clip and remove this small plastic piece.
  7. Now pull the carpet back on the passenger side and remove the four nuts securing the computer to the floor board. On some models, there are two connectors on the bottom right side of the control unit; unplug these and swing the computer towards the passenger seat along the floor. There are two connectors still holding the computer in place on the left hand side, but these can remain.
  8. Remove the three plugs that were near the RH kick plate. Tuck this cable out of the way.
  9. Now comes the fun part. The dash will be hindering the removal of the blower motor housing.
  10. First, remove the metal band securing the blower motor housing and the heater core housing together. It's one 10mm bolt at the top, lower the front band to release it at the bottom. This band clips to another band securing the two housing together on the back side. You will also need to remove the two small Phillips screws securing the rear band to the blower motor on the top and one on the bottom. The rear band gets in the way when removing the housing. So when the housing assembly drops remove the rear band from the top...set this part in first on installation. Make sure you note the position of the rear band before you pull everything out.
  11. Last, remove the four (maybe three) 10mm nuts securing the blower motor housing to the firewall. The housing will not fall to the floor on its own. You will need to pull up and out on the bottom of the dash while guiding the housing assembly down and to the left. Be careful not to pull aggressively on the dash. It's sturdy but will crack if you are too rough. The blower motor sort of rolls out of position. The back side will drop down and the entire assembly will tumble backwards as you guide it out so that it comes out upside down.
  12. Once you have the blower motor removed, it's time to take it apart. First, remove the screw that secures the metal plate attached to the plugs (1 Phillips). You will need to disengage the center cable from the clip. They attach to red clips that attach to the metal plate. Use a paper clip or something small (I used a micro screw driver kit) to lift up on the red clip and then again on the plug to remove the red clip itself.
  13. You will need to remove the white guide plates, two of them. One will have a screw that secures one of the cables. Beneath these are the mechanisms that open the assembly's vents. You will have to disengage these mechanisms which shouldn't require much. There is a lubricant on them, so make sure not to handle it too much or you will remove too much of the lubricant.
  14. The assembly is held together by metal clips and a couple (or three) screws. The assembly should come apart at the central seam. The motor is secured with two screws to the inside.
  15. When reinstalling the assembly, be sure to place the rear band in first and insert the assembly in almost upside down as it will roll forwards as it goes back into place. Make sure you don't snag any of the wires as you roll the assembly back into place.


minor finding: 1993 Accord - Same car but only 3 bolts to secure blower assembly - two top and one bottom. Also this model did not have to remove any ECU plugs at all, just swing aside, so really no need to remove battery. Beware if you do, you'll need your radio code to re-enable. Find an electric screwdriver with flexible shaft and there is much savings in time. Take time to vacuum debris at A/C condenser when the blower is off, you'll be glad you did. This is overall an easy/medium repair given these excellent instructions.

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โˆ™ 2011-09-12 20:41:45
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Honda Accord

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Q: How do you replace 1991 Honda Accord Blower Motor?
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