You need a new or reman. axle, a new axle nut, the transmission fluid specified for your car, anti-seize compound, and a new boot and cotter pin for the tie rod end. The hard part is getting the axle nut loose. I can't remmeber what size it is, but you'll need a long cheater bar on a breaker bar to get it loose. Or an impact wrench, if you've got one. Once the axle nut is loose, raise the car and remove the tire. You have to unbolt the MacPherson strut where it attaches to the knuckle. You may also have to unbolt the tie rod end. Remove the tie rod end with a "pickle fork". You should be able to push the end of the axle out of the hub bearing. If you can't, apply some penetrating oil, put the OLD axle nut on the end (to protect the threads) and beat the tar out of it with a hammer until it pops loose. Make sure the knuckle is supported so that you're not just ramming the axle into the transmission when you hit it. The idea is to persuade the axle out of the bearing. Once the axle is free of the steering knuckle, you will have to pull the other end out of the differential. There is a circlip holding it in the side gear of the diff, so you may need to lever it out with a crowbar or prybar. Be careful of what you use as a fulcrum. It will come out with a slight "POP". WARNING: If you are removing BOTH axles, place a length of broomstick through each axle hole as you remove the axles. Otherwise the side gears will fall out of the differential and you'll have to tow the car to a transmission shop to get them put back in!!! Ensure that the new axle has a circlip on the end. Lubricate the splines with transmission fluid and push it into the hole, making sure that the splines line up before pushing it all the way in. When it goes in, you should hear and/or feel the circlip POP into the side gear in the differential. Coat the outside shaft spines with anti-seize compound and slide into the hub bearing. Fit the knuckle back to the MacPherson strut and tighten the bolts to spec. (Not sure what that is offhand.) Install the tie rod end with new boot, tighten to spec, and use a new cotter pin to secure the castle nut. Put on the new axle nut but do not tighten it yet. Reinstall the tire, lower to the ground, and tigthen wheel lug nuts to spec. Using a torque wrench, tighten the axle nut to spec. ...sorry I don't have the torque specs handy. But you should be able to Google those. :) Check your transmission fluid level as some will probably have spilled out the axle hole. This procedure should not require an alignment unless you remove the ball joint, lower control arm, or the entire MacPherson strut assembly.
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