If you are a do it yourselfer, there are many adapters available to replace a broken cast-iron toilet flange. These adapters can be made of cast-iron itself or PVC. They are made to be inserted into the existing pipe where a rubber gasket is tightened to create a water tight seal. The adapter incorporates a new flange which is attached to the existing sub-floor. Other adapters even help in the case of damaged or rotten sub-floor around the waste pipe. If you do a search on "Repair Kit For Cast-Iron Closet Flange" you should come up with numerous options or you can visit your local pluming supply company who can provide you with both products and answers to any questions/concerns you might have. And if you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself after investigating what is involved, call a licensed plumber.
depending on your type of flange and pipe and the damage of the flange, if you have a PVC flange with just the bolt slots busted then you can screw in new bolts to the floor below the flange and still use the flange but if its broken where the wax seal sits then if your flange is lower then the floor you can use a insert flange that fits inside your old toilet flange with thin walls to keep the pipe size maximum. To replace the entire flange can be a job especially if its in concrete or in a floor joist because most of the time you have no room and if its cast iron pipe it can be even more of headache but in order to replace the flange you need to cut it out to where you can reconnect the pipe and flange by using a fernco or a no hub band. Sometimes it is impossible to replace because the flange can be on all close fittings and you pretty much have to replace most of the plumbing drain pipe to replace it properly which is why you want to try repairing your toilet flange rather then replacing it .
If only the top part where the bolts go into is broken, you can use a compression retro flange that will slide into the existing 4" cast iron. This will go right over the old one. If this makes it to high, cut the top of the old flange off and use the compression.
Depends on the type what means I use to replace it CAST Iron/ BRASS / Antimony / PVC / SCREWED TYPE
Change how? Move the location, you bust out the concrete and move it. Replace or repair the flange that the toilet hooks to. Cut the existing flange off flush with the floor and install a new repair flange. They can be brass or steel. You can use a PVC one that fits in the drain and seal it with a wax ring under it and screw it to the floor. If you are working with cast iron flange and the slots where the bolts are supposed to go is broken out, they make a repair piece for this. It is a 3/4 inch wide by 3-4 inch long crescent shape piece that slides under the flange and the bolt that holds the toilet fits into it. You may have to chip out a little concrete along the edge to get these under the flange.
PVC I assume. If you can get to the pipe, cut it and replace a short section along with the flange. There is a flat steel repair ring that could be screwed down on top of the flange. There are flat repair plates for cast iron flanges that might work. They are about 6 inches long, curved the same radius as the flange and slide under the old flange to give you some place for the anchor bolts to slide into.
You have to take the lead and packing out that is holding the flange in the next piece of pipe. If your flange is broke where the toilet bolts go, this is very common. There is a repair available for this. It consists of two curved pieces of metal that are about 1/3 of the circumference of the flange. They go under the flange and give you a new place to put the bolt. They are a lot easier to use than replacing the whole flange.
Toilet flanges OUTSIDE of the pipe including cast iron and brass to lead
it can cost from as little as 100 to as much as 1000 depending who does it and what is actually wrong. if the flange is cast iron it will be more. if it is glued abs or pvc and the drain is broke thats gonna cost more than 200. you may not need to actually repalce the flange and you may be able to use a metal repair bracket. If the flange is unrepairable its a dirty job and if the flange is glued that means the drain has to get cut back and then coupled and extended. and remember plumbers dont fix walls. so any holes made wont be their resonsiblity to fix.
If you can get to the 6 inch cast iron, you could use a rubber coupler between the cast and the flange. If it is in the concrete, put a piece of 4 inch PVC inside the 6 inch and lead it in like you would a regular cast joint. Leave the 4 inch above the floor and slide the flange over it, screw it down and cut the 4 inch flush with the flange. They make just the flange that will slide over the pipe.
I removed the broken flange by perforating the lead filling between the drain pipe and the flange - i.e., drilling holes every 1/4-1/2 inch or so with a regular drill and then sawing through the filling with a power saber saw. Then pried the flange off with a pry bar. Wasn't as bad as I expected. - Dan
Or repair what you have. Cast iron broke where the bolt goes. There is a steel half moon piece available that slips under the lip of the cast iron and bridges the broken out place. There is a brass ring available that screws down over the drain. It comes in a flat steel ring also.
Cast iron, often break where the bolts sit. There is a repair kit available. It is two flat curved pieces of metal about 3/4 wide and one third the circumference of the flange. It slides under the flange and pulls against the remaining cast iron. There is a complete ring available that is just a flat ring with 6 ears sticking out around the edge that should clear the cast iron. Screw it down to the floor and install the toilet. The full ring can be used with any flange.
Cut the toilet line down at the first 90 from the flange, and relocate so that your toilet is still vented from it's orignal vent. If it is dry vented, you need to move the toilet and the vent. A no-hub band or fernco coupling is the preferred transistion from cast iron to PVC.Ans 2 -good advice. - BTW, - a Fernco is a heavy duty rubber coupling with a hose clamp each end. They come in many sizes.
Normally whether use the forged flange or cast flange depends on the design code, material, pressure, temperature, stress strength and medium of the piping system. It has been decided since the beginning of the design. If forged flange is chosen, it is very dangerous for you to use cast flange due to its much lower strength and other mechanical&chemical performance. If cast flange is chosen, it is not sensible to change it to forged flange because of the high cost. Visit Hebei Metals Industrial Limited website for more information about the forged flange. www.metalsflange.com
first you chip up the concrete around the flange , if it is wood frame then disasemble the framing to expose the plumbing . next cut the cast pipe a little back from the first 90 or about a ft from the flange . next figure out where you want the new toilet and make a whole for a new flange next you have to run new drain line from where the cast pipe was cut and using PVC. is the easiest way . you can tie into the cast pipe by using a fernco coupling . now either pour new concrete to finish the floore or you might have to do a little rough framing , now you should be ready to install the new toilet . be sure and finish the flooring ( tile wood whatever u might be using ) before you install the new toilet.
What is the difference between a Cast Hoop and Triple Flange hoop?
Considering the waste inlet of the pipe of this pipe should be 4" possibly 3" you can buy an inside cast iron cutter .=You must measure the inside diameter and then buy /rent the one for the size you need THEN you can buy a new cast iron floor flange and use either a caulked joint (lead and oakum) or possibly a quick set type if the cast iron is no hub or standard weight=
Clean the lead to remove all the oxidation then use a non corrosive flux and also clean the Brass floor flange again removing all the oxidation then you can either TIN the brass flange or just lead with it to the lead pipe">Clean the lead to remove all the oxidation then use a non corrosive flux and also clean the Brass floor flange again removing all the oxidation then you can either TIN the brass flange or just lead with it to the lead pipe You cut the cast iron pipe using an inside pipe cutter then set the cast iron floor flange using oakum you pack the joint with in 1" of the top and fill the annular space with molten lead Cut the No hub pipe use a quick set cast iron floor flange Plastic FORGETABOUTIT unless your doing really low icome housing
The flange is actually a ring that the lead comes up through the middle of. The ring is secured to the floor and the lead is beat down against the flange. T would actually consider doing away with this lead bend as they are currently 50 years old or older. That is to say they stopped using them about 50 years ago and they are currently failing in a lot of homes. I w3ould cut the lead out leaving the brass stub in the cast iron where the lead attached, and repipe with PVC to that brass stub and attatch it with a fernco coupling. Three inch PVC will slide right inside that brass stub to make a real nice connection,Answerif you have the pipe flush with the finish floor you can get a plastic flange with a rubber ty seal gasket around it. this will fit inside the 4" pipe. or if the lead is exposed you can snap it at the cast iron and transition to plastic.
Yes, you can put a toilet on it. The hardest part would be putting a toilet flange onto the cast. There are two options: you can either get a cast iron flange to fit over it and pour a lead joint or you have to chip around the pipe enough to get a no hub band on it. You also have to consider the distance from the wall. If it's 15" to the back wall you only need a minimum of 12" to finished wall. That means if you fur the wall out you could only fur it out 2.5" leaving you with 1/2" drywall. The side of your toilet needs a minimum of 15".Here is more input from others:* Go to your plumbing or hardware store. There you'll find a brass flange you can fasten to the floor with zamma pins. You will not need to chisel the floor with this method, but, you will need ensure the 4" is flush to the floor. A hammer drill is also needed to drill six 1/4" holes in the cement for the zamma pins.* In order to ensure the proper safe and sanitary conditions of your plumbing system it is recommended that you hire a licensed plumber to do this type of work. If the floor of your basement is concrete it will have to be jackhammered to expose the cast iron pipe under the floor. The pipe will have to be cut using proper tools. Cast iron pipes are hard and brittle at the same time and if they are old and corroded will often crack. A proper fitting will have to be installed and fastened with right couplings to be water tight. Plastic ABS 4" pipe is then installed vertically though the floor just above the floor level and proper distance from the wall in back of the toilet, capped and wrapped to accommodate the floor flange after the concrete is poured back. When the concrete dries the cap and wrapping are removed, the ABS pipe is cut flush with the floor and toilet floor flange is installed.* You may be able to add a toilet to the line but it must be properly vented!*Another option, and probably the easiest for a homeowner, is to buy what is called a "twist and set flange". It is basically a PVC flange with a longer base that has 2 rubber seals that actually thread into the cast iron pipe. You would insert the base of the flange into the pipe and turn it until it becomes firm, then I would suggest anchoring it to the floor with 1/4" drive pins, or some other form of anchor.
You can buy the new cast iron flanges, with the expandable O rings that push into the pipe or you'll have to do the old style or pouring lead onto a cast iron flange. The latter option should only be done by professionals.
Floor flange, cast iron ,brass with floor flange bolts (brass) wax gasket and make sure the line is vented
there are various types of flanges:Welding Neck FlangeSlip On FlangeSocket Weld FlangeLap Joint FlangeThreaded FlangeBlind FlangeMaterial of FlangesPipe flanges are manufactured in all the different materials like stainless steel, cast iron, aluminium, brass, bronze, plastic etc. but the most used material is forged carbon steel and have machined surfaces. You can get more information through CHW Forge Site
You remove the existing tub shoe and related fittings and install a new assembly. In some cases a reciprocating saw will be needed to cut the shoe flange located inside the tub