How do you replace a universal joint on a 1998 Chevrolet blazer?
The rest is advice for anyone doing this for the first time like me
The front U-joint on a 1999 blazer was the same size as the rear. There was a different size listed for the front but on my blazer was way too small. The caps had a quarter inch of play. Plus the wrong size one had two outter clips. If you did not see outer clips on your present part, you use the same size as the back one.
The fit for the front one leaves no room for error to get the clip to seat properly. Take your time and do a little each side. I did not have the clip seated firmly and ended up on the side of the road with drive shaft hanging. What a different in acceleration, both torque and a quiet ride.
Still thinking of just checking the rear wheel bearings too but if you have a similar problem, this was a $30 repair and well worth every penny.
Have fun trying to pound out the old joint. Take the whole shaft right out and put it in a vise. There were two brackets to unscrew in the back, the front section just slides right out. You do have to get the back section out first to be able to slide out the front. The back side seems wedged in there but will come out.
Once the shaft is off the truck. I did not have to use heat, just a couple sockets. The sockets will get messed up so do not use expensive ones. Like many sites state you have to beat the p!ss out of them. they are not kidding. I used a 3lb sledge and what ever you think hard hitting is, triple it. I did spray some PB blaster and scored the outer area around the caps, plus remember to take the retaining clips out. Each U-joint had four and a couple looked like they were welded in place from build up but are not. Just a punch or screw driver, and a hammer will tap them out.
When installing the new ones. You still need a socket to pound them in and alternate sides doing a few gentler hits, I cracked a bearing cap hitting it directly, probably contribute to my break down. I did not have to take the clips off while under the car. A screw driver and rubber mallet helped pull them off. The rubber mallet was nice to knock them back on without smashing my fingers.
Also when you take out the old ones take the time to clean out the inner ring of the holes. There was lots of built up of something in there.
Hope these tips help any one doing this the first time like me go smoother. I am just a DIY guy learning as I go.
Jack up and support the right front of the vehicle. Remove the wheel/tire. Remove the brake caliper and hang the caliper with a piece of wire out of the way. Remove hub/rotor assembly. Remove backing plate and spindle. Slide out axle assembly. Replace u-joint as you would on a driveshaft. Assemble in reverse order.
Everytime i turn a letf hand corner or hit a bump on the driver side it sounds like my blazer is fallin apart when i jacked it up i checked the cv shaft an i could wiggle it up an down Whats the prob.?
I believe these are just pressed in from the factory. It has a piece of plastic sticking out of the end of the yoke eye. How do you replace a universal joint on a Chevy S 10 truck?
== == US built trucks use a Neapco 1-0430 to replace factory staked-in joints on 4 cylinder models. Japan built 4 cylinders and V6 models use different ones, usually a Precision 369. == == you can't replace it you have go to a drive shaft company to replace it.. it's press on about $100 for both joint and balance drive.
Well, if it is a front driveshaft, the issue is a CV joint and you'll have to remove the driveshaft and take it in to be rebuilt. Taht will run you $150 or more. If it is a rear driveshaft, it will be cheaper if you remove the driveshaft and take it to a driveline shop where they can press in a new u-joint.....I'd recommend you replace both. A guess? $60 to $80
What is causing the clunk from the rear axle of a 1998 S10 Blazer when shifting from reverse to forward or forward to reverse gears and vibration on acceleration?
Most likely you have a bad "universal joint" or "U-joint". There are two: one on each end of the main driveshaft It could be either one that is causing the symptoms, but if that is the fix, you might as well change both since it is a relatively cheap fix. Don't ignore it too long because as it gets worse, the driveshaft can drop to the ground and you will be stuck. It could also…