The rest is advice for anyone doing this for the first time like me
The front U-joint on a 1999 blazer was the same size as the rear. There was a different size listed for the front but on my blazer was way too small. The caps had a quarter inch of play. Plus the wrong size one had two outter clips. If you did not see outer clips on your present part, you use the same size as the back one.
The fit for the front one leaves no room for error to get the clip to seat properly. Take your time and do a little each side. I did not have the clip seated firmly and ended up on the side of the road with drive shaft hanging. What a different in acceleration, both torque and a quiet ride.
Still thinking of just checking the rear wheel bearings too but if you have a similar problem, this was a $30 repair and well worth every penny.
Have fun trying to pound out the old joint. Take the whole shaft right out and put it in a vise. There were two brackets to unscrew in the back, the front section just slides right out. You do have to get the back section out first to be able to slide out the front. The back side seems wedged in there but will come out.
Once the shaft is off the truck. I did not have to use heat, just a couple sockets. The sockets will get messed up so do not use expensive ones. Like many sites state you have to beat the p!ss out of them. they are not kidding. I used a 3lb sledge and what ever you think hard hitting is, triple it. I did spray some PB blaster and scored the outer area around the caps, plus remember to take the retaining clips out. Each U-joint had four and a couple looked like they were welded in place from build up but are not. Just a punch or screw driver, and a hammer will tap them out.
When installing the new ones. You still need a socket to pound them in and alternate sides doing a few gentler hits, I cracked a bearing cap hitting it directly, probably contribute to my break down. I did not have to take the clips off while under the car. A screw driver and rubber mallet helped pull them off. The rubber mallet was nice to knock them back on without smashing my fingers.
Also when you take out the old ones take the time to clean out the inner ring of the holes. There was lots of built up of something in there.
Hope these tips help any one doing this the first time like me go smoother. I am just a DIY guy learning as I go.
Remove the tire and wheel from your 1998 Chevrolet blazer. Remove the ball joint nut. Pound the ball joint out with a hammer. Reverse the process to install the new ball joint.
drive universal jount
Do you need any special tools.
You have to replace the whole drive shaft.
The rear universal joint on a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder should be replaced when it becomes worn out or broken. Symptoms of a worn joint include rough handling and suspension issues.
Remove the tire and wheel from your 1992 Chevrolet S 10 Blazer. Removing the brake assembly and the brake rotor will give you more room to work. Remove the ball joint nut. Pound the ball joint out with a hammer. Reverse the process to install the new ball joint.
Replace universal joint on rear of driveshaft
It sounds like a universal joint to me, it's an easy repair and cheap too.
If you have to ask online, then step 1 is finding a qualified shop that can do it for you.
Sounds like the CV joint is compltely shot ( the universal joint about center of the shaft). Get new joints or replace the shaft. You can push the rubber boot aside and see the joint.
It will cost approximately $225 to replace a CV joint in your Chevrolet Avalanche. The CV joint will cost approximately $80 and require two hours of labor.
Jack up and support the right front of the vehicle. Remove the wheel/tire. Remove the brake caliper and hang the caliper with a piece of wire out of the way. Remove hub/rotor assembly. Remove backing plate and spindle. Slide out axle assembly. Replace u-joint as you would on a driveshaft. Assemble in reverse order.