I can only expalin the rear wheel bearing as I replaced the pasenger side on my 92 mx3...It is a single sealed self-contained unit including the bearing, hub and lug assembly. To install, remove the wheel and center dust cap and center spindle nut. It is torqued on quite heavily ( the dearler srfice told me it was a reverse thread, but it is NOT on the right rear side. I do not know about the left(drivers side), but I asssume it is also righty tighty lefty loosey. The assembly slid off easily without a puller and installed easily. A good sign that it the bearing is bad is a grinding noise when the car is rolling, even out of gear. I've replaced both rear wheel bearings, order the assembly complete as described above (some places will try to sell you just a "bearing", that's not applicable in this case)....
Both are standard threads, not reversed, and I am going from memory here (go to www.mx-3.com, click on "Technical" and the "Online Shop Manual" for the exact process), but the torque on these bolts is something like 420lb-ft (tremendous, my very large 1/2" drive torque wrench stopped at 250lb-ft, I hit that, then kept going a bit more, maybe 1/8 turn additional (torque rapidly was ramping up at that point).
Point being, to get these LOOSE, after all this time on the car, for me was a huge challenge. My tips on removal, start by using a large drive (1/2" or larger) breaker bar and axle socket. After jacking the car up SECURELY (it will make sense in a minute as to why), use another floor/hydraulic jack, place the breaker bar in a position that it is lifting "up" to loosen, but pointed below the horizon. Example, on the passenger side, the breaker bar should be pointing to about 4'oclock on the dial. Now use your extra jack, place it under the breaker bar end, and start jacking it up, being very careful to avoid slippage and staying clear in case the bar breaks, flies off the jack, etc (I am not responsible if you get hurt in this process, use common sense)... my car literally was lifting slightly off the jack stands before the bolts finally came loose (mine were not a sharp release, just settled back down, at first I wasn't sure it was loose till a little more work loosened them more clearly).... once you get 1/4-1/2 turn loose, they will probably turn very easily, it's just unfreezing them that's a challenge. Realize, the car weighs probably 500+ lbs on each of the back corners with a full tank, I literally was hanging on the breaker bar (feet off the ground bouncing) and they didn't come loose till I tried this trick (impact wrenches had no effect on the bolts).
Anyhow, you can try other brute force methods, but this method literally was simple, and effortless (once I figured it out), I nearly gave up thinking my breaker bar had reached it's limit as the car started lifting till the bolt finally gave up, and only required about 6" of lift (the 3/4" diameter 2-ft long breaker bar had roughly 4" of deflection before the bolt gave loose.
Once that's done, the parts slip right off, and reassembly is a cinch other than retorquing. Oh, getting the dust cover off to get to the axle bolt is also a pain, mine has a few dents in it after the fact, you'll need a VERY thin, strong wedge/shim of some sort to work under the lip to get it loose, it's a very shallow lip (1/16" or less) but a good solid, corroded-in-place friction fit shoulder about 1/4" deep. Don't bother with using penetrating oil for disassembly (worth it for reassembly), it won't get in there, it's just a patience and tapping process.
its on the fire wall
What are the head bolt torque specs for a mazda mx3 1600
The Mazda MX3 was first produced in 1991. It was introduced at the Geneva Motor Show in March of 1991. The MX3 was produced until 1998, when production was halted.
check the power steering and check the battery
yes, you will have to remove all the plastics from the 94 and put them into the 92, as well as the wiring.
check power steering fluid and check to see if battery is good
Keep It Simple Stupid. Take it to a mechanic and replace clutch cause any clutch problem means you need to replace it!
You need to either adjust or replace your shifter linkage I wouldn't suggest attempting this yourself as you have to rip the whole dash and steering wheel apart. Take it to a mechanic
you have to open the hatch, take all the plastic interior apart, just to get to your bulbs. its a pain.
This is done the same as the 1995 Mazda MX6. The answer is posted.
Have a certified mechanic replace your throttle cable!
waste of time
well i just changed the brakes on my Mazda mx3 what you do is take the 2 pins out of the calipers which is holding the pads in place and then you are able to remove the pads
well...there is no fan belt on any model of mx3, its using an electrical fan, and if you have A/C it has a second electrical fan just beside it. If its not working, it could be the relay, the motor, or the coolant sensor
what size is the motor 1.8 liter
By regulating the fuel pressure
This car does not have a spotlight.....
Hi! It can be a little bit different at each type of car but here is a guide for a mazda mx3 which can be a good starting point: http://mazda-mx-3.info/lower-ball-joint
Under the back seat
its located on the floor behind the consol underneath the dash
bad ignitor or coil .
The multifunction switch that allows you to turn you headlights is broken. The only way to find out is to replace it or take it to a mechanic.
The last year Mazda made the MX3 was in 1996....... so a 2006 would be really expensive! ;) I guess you are asking about a different car
3 1/2 quarts