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There are some good instructions on how to replace these coils as well as replace the spark plugs for Ford 5.4L engines at autoclinix.com (http://www.autoclinix.com/Expedition/Ford_Coil_Plug.php)

Each cylinder has a small coil on top of the spark plug location.Disconnect the wire harness from the coil first. Unscrew the coil (small screw is located on coil cover) Pull out coil and rubber boot from the spark plug cylinder,be very carefull not to tear or over extend the internal coil spring,wiggle the boot until it slides out easy. The spark plug is located inside,put your spark plug socket in there gently and remove spark plug.Check gap on new plug and insert into cylinder very carefully,do not over tighten or you could break the plug.(not good) Lubricate the boot and put it back in ,tighten coil and reconnect harness. Hope that helps you! AMTZTEXBEST

It's different for the 4.6L since it doesn't use COP (Coil-On-Plug) ignition.

For the 4.6L it's a fairly involved job and I wouldn't recomend it unless you are getting close to 100K miles or are having misfire problems. For the 4.6L it's a matter of removing or loosening the items that are in the way (such as the air cleaner drum and hose leading to the throttle body, as well as the electrical interface plugs and relays mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment on the passenger side of the car). Make sure you cover any ports or hoses that you disconnect to prevent dust or debris from getting blown into them. Removing the spark plug boots is usually the toughest part of the job, because there isn't enough room to get your hands in there to pull the boots off. I discovered with mine that a helpful technique is to use a length of strap type rope or cord and loop it around the spark plug wire. Then tie a slip knot in the rope and manuver the loop so it is around the head of the spark plug boot. Gently pull the loop tighter so it closes around the boot (NOT THE WIRE!). Once it's tight you can use the rope to pull upwards to disconnect the boot. Remember that the plugs are slightly angled on the Expedition's heads (towards the rear of the vehicle on the passenger side and the front on the driver's side), so you'll have to pull at a slight angle in order to release the plug boots.

After that it's all very straightforward stuff (blow out the area with compressed air, use a spark plug socket to remove plugs, gap new platnium plugs and use anti-seize compound on the threads of the new ones, use silicone dielectric grease on the boots, torque new plugs to spec, etc.). If you're unsure of how to proceed get a manual from Haynes for your vehicle.

1999 Expedition with 4.6 liter Engine:

I did not have to remove any electrical items to access plugs 3 and 4. The tools I used were a good set of 3/8 drive rachets, 3 or 4 different size extensions, one universal, a proper spark plug socket with rubber insert to hold the plug, two extra 12" long needle nose pliers, one with a 90 degree bend. With 91,000 miles my plugs were way out of gap range, maybe 1/8 gap! not .052 to .054. I used Autolite double platinum replacements. You will also need PB Blaster to soak old plugs, a few squirts in each one and let it sit as long as possible, even over night would be good.

Plan on replacing the plug wires if so equiped. You will most likely damage the old ones removing them. At 100K miles, replace wires and plugs! This job takes time! Do not rush it, but allow time as the other fellow said at least 5 to 6 hours. The plug wires are hard to pull out because they have several seals on the ends and are very long. To access the rear passenger side wires and plugs you can gently move the heater hoses around, enough, just enough to get to that #4 plug. This is the real hard one to get at. I did it without removing any electrical components. Now, remove plug wire and use plug socket and extension to losen plug. Once it breaks loose, just turn it open a fraction of a turn, then tighten back just a little and again try loosening the plug and repeat this back and forth action a few times. This will allow some PB to get into the threads. Once it feels easier to turn, proceed to turn and remove the plug. Install new plug, put some antisieze compound on the thread and also on the rim seal of the plug. You just need a very small amount and keep it out of the firing end! Install plug by finger tight, no ratchet to make sure you do not strip it or you will have BIG PROBLEMS. I would not recommend using any power tools on this job! Now you can tighten to spec, 12 to 14 Lbs tork, check your manual. These are aluminum heads,use care and lots of it.

On ignition wires if so equiped, loosen all plastic wire harness holders and replace one wire at a time. Route the wire as in original placements. Original wires are numbered. I did have to remove the air filter and plastic housing going to the intake manifold to make the job a bit easier for replacing wires. My Ford dealer wanted over $600 for this job and I can see why! Ford could have had a better idea on this one! The most difficult plug replacement I ever did! The plugs by the way are not where you think, near the exhaust ports, under the valve covers but are ON TOP, next to the Intake ports. Good Luck!

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Q: How do you replace spark plugs in a 2001 Ford Expedition?
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