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Ford Ranger
Honda Accord DX

How do you replace the alternator on a 1996 Honda DX hatchback manual transmission?

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Wiki User
2015-07-15 20:45:58
2015-07-15 20:45:58
alternator (and belt) replacementin order to change the alternator you MUST remove the powersteering pump first both brackets are similar in design and function and involve similar steps for removal / installation.

you will need 3 sizes of wrenches to complete this repair: 10mm 12mm 14mm

first unhook the negative battery terminal (10mm)

then loosen the bolts on the tensioner bracket (10mm front 12mm rear)

loosen the main bolt (14mm) and the p.s. pump or alternator should roll downward along the bracket giving you slack on the respective belt.

check and replace the belts if necissary. (If you are only changing a belt stop here and work backwards to tighten the belt!!!)

take the 12mm bolt off of the stud that the 10mm bolt threads into

then the fourteen

the p.s. pump or alternator should be free

installation is the reverse of removal. Take your time to make sure you do it right.

This what I did when my alternator failed on New Years Day 2011.

I'd previously read at least three different ways to change out the alternator. The one I went with was to remove it through the top, kinda like a ceasarian!

This meant disconnecting the battery ground (earth) lead, disconnecting any clips or brackets holding wiring blocks etc, to the body. Taking the driver's front wheel off and making sure the car was solid on a jack stand; this allows easy access to the alternator lower pivot/securing bolt, which has to be removed.

Once there is a relatively clear access to the top of the alternator, remove the adjustment bolt and the bolt holding the thick adjustment bracket to the block. The drive belt should just fall away now everything is loose.

Rotate the still wired up alternator so you can see and get at the big output lead securing nut. Pull back the rubber cover and use a ring wrench to remove

the nut. Use a small wrench (5mm?) to remove the tiny machine screw that holds the wiring to the end of the alternator. Remove the two brake master cylinder flange nuts that hold it to the brake booster/servo. Ease the still pipe connected unit off the studs and towards the airfilter area. Bungees can be used to hold things away from the access area. This should allow the alternator the clearance needed to be fiddled past the inlet manifold etc.

Mine came out after a minute of wrangling; refitting a reconditioned unit back into place, was equally straightforward.

I give all credit to this way of doing the job, to the guy that suggested it on Wiki s - thank you mate!

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